When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the original style points and distributor on my 350/74'. With the engine not running and the ignition key turned to run, what voltage should I see at the plus side of the coil? Thanks.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by robert.sperry
I have the original style points and distributor on my 350/74'. With the engine not running and the ignition key turned to run, what voltage should I see at the plus side of the coil? Thanks.
Depends. If the points are open the C+ terminal should be close to battery voltage (12volts). If the points are closed then there will be a voltage divider effect between the ballast resistance and the coil resistance, yielding a C+ terminal voltage of about 6 volts.
The Ignition sticky at the top of this section will explain why.
Since it is not easy to tell if the points are open or closed, I assume I can just ground the coil minus terminal and do the voltage check to verify that I get the 6 volts (or so) reading. Can someone confirm this approach?
I have been burning up points - only getting about 1000 miles on a quality set of points so I wanted to verify that I had the right voltage going to the points in the run position. Otherwise ignition system works fine.
are you changing the condensor when you change the points? are you leaving the key in the run position for long periods without starting the engine? are you setting the dwell angle to 30 degrees?
The dwell is set to 30 degrees with a dwell meter. The points are the uniset type so the condenser is new with the points. The key is not left in run unless the car is running.
The dwell is set to 30 degrees with a dwell meter. The points are the uniset type so the condenser is new with the points. The key is not left in run unless the car is running.
I am having this same problem! Did you ever find a resolution?
what is the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil with the key in the run position?
Thanks for the reply. With the car running or not? If not, wouldn't there be a difference if the points were in an open or close position as mentioned earlier. Please clarify - thanks !
You are grounding the positive terminal through the volmeter to get a reading, the points wont matter, path of least resistance etc. The key in the run position, engine does not have to be running.
Ultimately I pulled the starter and replaced the starter solenoid since I was seeing full battery voltage with the key in run and the engine not running. The removed solenoid seemed to test out ok but a bad solenoid was the only explanation I could come up with for seeing full battery voltage at the plus side of the coil (when the starter was not engaged). With the new solenoid I now measure about 6 volts at the plus side of the coil with the key in run and the engine off and the points grounded so I think the issue is resolved but will not really know until I put some time and miles on the car.
You are grounding the positive terminal through the volmeter to get a reading, the points wont matter, path of least resistance etc. The key in the run position, engine does not have to be running.
Okay to confirm - key in run position (car NOT running) measure voltage at + side of the coil. Correct voltage should be between 6-9 volts? With car car running, voltage at the + side of the coil should be what? Thanks
Okay to confirm - key in run position (car NOT running) measure voltage at + side of the coil. Correct voltage should be between 6-9 volts? With car car running, voltage at the + side of the coil should be what? Thanks
Originally Posted by MelWff
around 9 volts
please confirm voltage at + side of the coil with and without the car running - thanks
It should be around 6 running or not running. It should be 12 only when cranking. I was burning up coils in my boat until I did away with the resistor wire and went with an inline ballast resistor.
what value is the resistor and how did you bypass the resistor wire (guage etc)
It is a standard automotive ballast resistor, havent heard of them coming in different ohm ratings, but you still havent stated what voltage you are getting with the engine off and the key in the run position at the positive terminal of the coil.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by oledave60
It should be around 6 running or not running. It should be 12 only when cranking. I was burning up coils in my boat until I did away with the resistor wire and went with an inline ballast resistor.