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Adjustable pivot ball studlenght.

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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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Default Adjustable pivot ball studlenght.

I'm replacing a clutch pivot ball stud in a lakewood bellhousing. Anyone know how long it's supposed to be? The old one came loose on me.
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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Here's a starting point. Good luck.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-distance.html
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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From what I read there looks like 4.75" plus the thickness of the block plate?
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by RDCRIS
From what I read there looks like 4.75" plus the thickness of the block plate?

4.75" sounds waaay too long
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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Depends on the throwout bearing length, arm, flywheel/clutch thickness, bell depth.
Here's a guide to set it up correctly.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 12:48 PM
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There is a much easier way to get the information needed. .
I'm using the same center force clutch setup as I did using the stock bellhousing. All I need is the measurement from the tip of pivot ball to the bellhousing/engine block mating suface of a stock bellhousing. Anyone have that available?
Thanks
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 03:16 PM
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I'm switching a Lakewood from one engine to another right now. I felt like the adjustable ball stud was a little too short last time, so I increased the length of the ball stud by an 1/8". The distance from the tip of the ball to the flange of the scattershield is 4-5/8". I just went out and measured it. I'm running a Sach's clutch and pressure plate.
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Super6
I'm switching a Lakewood from one engine to another right now. I felt like the adjustable ball stud was a little too short last time, so I increased the length of the ball stud by an 1/8". The distance from the tip of the ball to the flange of the scattershield is 4-5/8". I just went out and measured it. I'm running a Sach's clutch and pressure plate.
Do you have the stock set-up still? If so could you measure that for me.
Thanks
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RDCRIS
Do you have the stock set-up still? If so could you measure that for me.
Thanks
I make no claims as to what the stock set-up should be, all I can say is when I measured it I did exactly what I did on the Lakewood. The set-up that I have has the ball stud on a threaded plug that has a internal hex on the tranny side. I don't know if that is the factory part. I screwed the plug all the way in as far as it would go and the distance from the tip of the ball to the machined face is 4-7/8". I then backed the plug out as far as it would go and still be flush with the bellhousing/tranny face and re-measured the same dimension. It was 4-15/16" in that situation. Hope that helps.
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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I going to set it up at 4-7/8 to make up the thickness of the block plate behind the flywheel. I'm still struggling with a stuck pilot bearing.
Thanks
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RDCRIS
I going to set it up at 4-7/8 to make up the thickness of the block plate behind the flywheel. I'm still struggling with a stuck pilot bearing.
Thanks
If the back side (toward the crank) of the roller pilot bearing isn't that messed up, the grease trick may still work. Use something for the ram down the center that is the tightest fit you can get without the piece actually touching the pilot bearing. That video showed a guy using a 3/8" bolt. Find something like a wooden dowel or a rod that fits well, one shot with the hammer will work ordinarily. I've done it. Only put in enough grease to fill the void behind the bearing and position the ramrod even with the back side because you're not dealing with a solid bearing. Anyway, good luck with that.

I'm in West Melbourne, where's Lantana?
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 10:47 PM
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The rollers are out of the bearing, otherwise it's intact. I have a different puller and if that fails I'll try the grease trick. Lantana is 10 miles south of West Palm Beach.
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