Found an article comparing dual plane intakes. Good info. it compares HP, TQ and also shows heights which is great having it all in one place for figuring out if it will fit under the hood.
I can see that the 7104 would be .65" taller than the 2101 and would not fit under the hood with my current configuration.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...s/viewall.html

 

Would a 1/2 inch wood open spacer fit on top your manifold?

 

This is what valve float looks like on the dyno (~5,900 RPM) with the 151 cam (327/350 hp). The engine quickly drops off in power.

 

On my 79, an edelbrock RPM intake and edelbrock carb with the stock air cleaner all manage to fit under the hood. There may have been some massaging involved by my mechanic, but they fit, despite edelbrock saying it won't. So, there may be hope

 

Not the way I have it now. But it could be changed. I have 1/8 inch clearance from the hood with the insulation removed above the air cleaner.

I do have extra spacers under the carb now to keep percolation down after shutting down. I could take that out and put in a wood open spacer. You thinking of increasing the plenum volume for more rpm?

Right now I have the 4 hole gasket/spacer set up from Mr gasket which is alternating aluminum plates (two) and gaskets (I'm using 2 of three) and then an open style 1/2" open gasket nearest the carb. Using the 4 hole to keep reversion down and improve initial throttle response as apposed to an open gasket/spacer.
I could change this configuration to get a taller manifold in and then put up with the fuel percolation.

 

Presently I have a wood 4 hole to prevent boiling in the fuel bowls on the weiand single plane. This is putting it back together a few months ago with my smaller AFR 210 cc heads. This motor breaths so well that you have to use a rev limiter and watch the tach.

I was thinking that if you use open spacers that you can increase the plenum volume and extend the upper rpm range.

 

If a 222 @.050 cam dies at 5900 I guess getting 5700 out of a 219@.050 isn't so bad.

 

Agreed. Rest of the engine:

331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled and blended, Primary - 69, Secondary – 74, Squirters - 21
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Manifold heat riser crossover blocked
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Millerspeed 1-1/2” Gilmer under drive belt drive system
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
160-degree thermostat
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Header Power Bracket
Keisler TKO600 5-Speed
Hurst shifter
3.70:1 positraction with Big Block yokes
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels

 

Toddalin, I read your setup list. By chance when you put the heads together did you keep the heavy rotators and valve spring cups? The additional weight causes valve float at a much lower than it has to rpm. Then the fact that springs use oil splash to keep cool to last longer makes the spring cups another bad idea.

back in the 70's those items were the first things we would throw away and install lighter chromemoly retainers and the over the counter 302 or LT1 springs

 

I don't know.

Engine was built by a couple in a shop that specialized in drag racing. They wanted me to go more radical (e.g., higher compression, cut the heads for 1.6 rockers) than I did at the time but I was looking for a nice driver with a fat torque curve and didn't want to be bothered with setting valve lash.

I would have to pull a valve cover to look. Even now beehive valve springs are probably superior to what's in there.