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82 trailing arm question

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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 09:36 AM
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Default 82 trailing arm question

I am in the process of rebuilding my rear end. I have a new rear end coming from Duntov, and in the mean-time I am installing all of the other components.
My question is in regards to the trailing arms. I've installed new bushings, bolts and shims where they attach to the frame but they feel a little loose (floppy?). the strut rods are not yet installed so I know there will be a little slop, but it seems I can grab the arm and actually rock it in and out (top out bottom in, top in bottom out).
The shims seem to be snug, but I haven't "tapped" any in to tighten it up.
Anybody have any thoughts?
Thanks
Fred
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 10:24 AM
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That's the way they're designed to be. The front bushing offers maximum flexibility for camber change but minimum for toe changes.

People farque this up by installing hard urethane bushings.
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 10:33 AM
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Thanks Mike
I figured I was jumping the gun as the struts, shafts etc haven't been installed yet, BUT....if I have to redo it I guess now would be the time, eh?
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredscott
I am in the process of rebuilding my rear end. I have a new rear end coming from Duntov, and in the mean-time I am installing all of the other components.
My question is in regards to the trailing arms. I've installed new bushings, bolts and shims where they attach to the frame but they feel a little loose (floppy?). the strut rods are not yet installed so I know there will be a little slop, but it seems I can grab the arm and actually rock it in and out (top out bottom in, top in bottom out).
The shims seem to be snug, but I haven't "tapped" any in to tighten it up.
Anybody have any thoughts?
Thanks
Fred
The movement max should be the difference between the pivot bolt diameter and the diameter of the bushing sleeve + what the bushing allows. If its rubber you will have more than if its poly. How much do you have ? When I installed my poly bushings there was very little movement in and out while allowing proper up and down rotation with none for toe in-out movement that I could detect. NOw I use my 1978 for track driving so I did not install rubber bushing to keep it tight as possible. To Install the last shim I would use the thinnest shim and tap it in the middle of the stack enough that I could install at least 1/3 by hand and tap the remaining in with tools.

Last edited by cagotzmann; Sep 29, 2013 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 12:22 PM
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Thanks
I took them off and reinstalled them because I guess that's just what I do I did end up tapping an additional outer shim on each sided and they feel much better. As soon as the project is done I will be taking it to a shop for a proper 4 pt alignment and I think all will be well! rebuilt trailing arms, adjustable struts and a 3.54 rear end to go with the 498 hp 406.....there may just be a noticeable difference.
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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don't forget to check all bolts after driving the car for a while.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lvmyvt76
don't forget to check all bolts after driving the car for a while.
Ask me how I Know...
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 07:33 AM
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I will definitely put it back up on the lift and retorque after the shakedown cruise
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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Any suspension bushing should be torqued with the car sitting on it's own wheels, not up in the air dangling.
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