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My mechanic and I are having a go-around on the break-in. I say we've only got one chance to get it right. We freshend the block, crank, and heads, everything else is new. Complete new valve train with solid roller lifters and roller rockers. I want to be conservative when we fire it up and use new aftermarket gauges during the run-in period. That gives me the comfort that we know pressure and temp and after break-in we'll go back to the factory guagues.
This car sat for 28 years in my brother's garage so who knows if a needle is sticking or sender is bad? He says I'm being too paranoid. I say it's my engine (my $$$) and this is how we're going to do it. Is this just the engineer in me talking, but I think conservative is better. Any thoughts? What would you do given the unknown condition of the factory gauges?
My mechanic and I are having a go-around on the break-in. I say we've only got one chance to get it right. We freshend the block, crank, and heads, everything else is new. Complete new valve train with solid roller lifters and roller rockers. I want to be conservative when we fire it up and use new aftermarket gauges during the run-in period. That gives me the comfort that we know pressure and temp and after break-in we'll go back to the factory guagues.
This car sat for 28 years in my brother's garage so who knows if a needle is sticking or sender is bad? He says I'm being too paranoid. I say it's my engine (my $$$) and this is how we're going to do it. Is this just the engineer in me talking, but I think conservative is better. Any thoughts? What would you do given the unknown condition of the factory gauges?
While some may say it is overkill, I agree with you that getting accurate readings on first start is ideal. Does not cost much in $$ or time to hook up some new gauges...I approve and what should he care??
Oil pressure and temp are the only things you will need to observe. If you are REALLY worried, hook up a mechanical oil gauge and have a IR thermometer on hand to take temps. Just run it man. Your ears will tell you more than gauges will when breaking it in.
As far as breaking it in....Im assuming you are going to get crazy with that too. Remember this....when was the last time you broke in a new car? My advice for break in (AFTER rolling at 2500 rmp for 20 mins for the cam) is to just run it easily for a while and gently start laying into it.
[QUOTE=Scottd;1585074981]Oil pressure and temp are the only things you will need to observe. If you are REALLY worried, hook up a mechanical oil gauge and have a IR thermometer on hand to take temps. Just run it man. Your ears will tell you more than gauges will when breaking it in.
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Those and maybe a tach. It is good to watch these numbers during break-in. imo
I think you're getting paralysis of over analysis. Roller lifter motors do not require the usual 2500 RPM for 20 mins+ initial run as Mike Ward pointed out. Using some extra gauges is a good idea, but not necessary. The biggest thing you will need to be aware of is leaks.
I thought the 20 min was for flat tappet cams, and the rod/crank bearings, the rings will seat within 500 miles. and around 800 miles everything starts to loosen up and you can really feel what you built.
My mechanic and I are having a go-around on the break-in. I say we've only got one chance to get it right. We freshend the block, crank, and heads, everything else is new. Complete new valve train with solid roller lifters and roller rockers. I want to be conservative when we fire it up and use new aftermarket gauges during the run-in period. That gives me the comfort that we know pressure and temp and after break-in we'll go back to the factory guagues.
This car sat for 28 years in my brother's garage so who knows if a needle is sticking or sender is bad? He says I'm being too paranoid. I say it's my engine (my $$$) and this is how we're going to do it. Is this just the engineer in me talking, but I think conservative is better. Any thoughts? What would you do given the unknown condition of the factory gauges?
I used an aftermarket (AutoMeter) gauge when I primed the motor, via the distributer gear. No way would I rely on the stock gauge - I wanted a "real" reading. You shouldn't fire up the motor without properly priming it first - with a HD drill spinning the gear at least a minute, 4 times on each 90 degree cycle.
I used an aftermarket (AutoMeter) gauge when I primed the motor, via the distributer gear. No way would I rely on the stock gauge - I wanted a "real" reading. You shouldn't fire up the motor without properly priming it first - with a HD drill spinning the gear at least a minute, 4 times on each 90 degree cycle.
Despite the fact that GM built umpty million SBC and BBC engines- not one of which was primed before first firing.
Is this just the engineer in me talking, but I think conservative is better. Any thoughts? What would you do given the unknown condition of the factory gauges?
Myself and the engineers I work with wouldn't be paranoid about something like this. I would simply crank it over with the starter until the gauge showed pressure before starting. If it won't show pressure, find out what the problem is.
BTW, other than the rings seating, which should happen by the time the engine gets up to operating temperature, there's nothing else to break in when using a roller cam.
My mechanic and I are having a go-around on the break-in. I say we've only got one chance to get it right. We freshend the block, crank, and heads, everything else is new. Complete new valve train with solid roller lifters and roller rockers. I want to be conservative when we fire it up and use new aftermarket gauges during the run-in period. That gives me the comfort that we know pressure and temp and after break-in we'll go back to the factory guagues.
This car sat for 28 years in my brother's garage so who knows if a needle is sticking or sender is bad? He says I'm being too paranoid. I say it's my engine (my $$$) and this is how we're going to do it. Is this just the engineer in me talking, but I think conservative is better. Any thoughts? What would you do given the unknown condition of the factory gauges?
Thanks for the opinions everybody. I'll talk to the builder. I didnt know that with roller lifters you didn't need the extended run-in. And about GM building gazillions of v8s without priming them, I recall a tour at the Tonawanda engine plant many years ago (they were building Vega engines at the time, that's how long ago). The complete engines came down the line and had hoses for fluids and electrical hooked up. They were started, run long enough for pressure to build up so to find leaks and given a quick listen. No oil in the pan, they clipped onto the oil filter mount. And I had one of those engines.
If you know of anybody looking for a flat tappet solid lifter BB cam have them PM me. NOS in the tube.