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I installed the 3.54 rebuilt diff and discovered they installed the wrong stubs...
They are sending me the new ones and I am just going to install them myself as opposed to 3 weeks transit time waiting for them to do it.
QUESTIONS
would conversion u-joints cause a vibration?
would the installation of 1/2 shafts in a non-original configuration cause a vibration?
is there a "break-in" period where this might be common (not likely)?
what could possibly be causing this vibration?
There is no sound/noise from the rear-end and the vibration starts around 40 mph
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Thanks
If you suspect your shafts are out of balance, I would take them to a 4x4 driveline shop and have them balanced. They can also check to be sure the flange ends are not bent from improper U-joint removal/installation. I have even had a U joint cap not seated properly throw a driveshaft out enough to vibrate. I normally back seat the cap against the clips when doing U-joints. I assume your pinion snubber is good and installed correctly (the wrong angle on the nose of your diff can cause issues) Trans mounts and engine mounts can all add to a problem if they are failing. Other than that it goes more towards expensive stuff like trailing arms or your new diff. Good luck!
Conversion (hybrid) joints don't cause vibration if they are correctly sized to the application. I've used them in swap applications and never had a problem at any speed. There is no break-in period. If something is vibrating, it will only get worse and eventually cause failure(s). You need to figure out what order vibration you are dealing with to understand the origins. Driveshaft, halfshafts, bearings, and tires will have different vibration orders.
If You have never removed or installed the Yokes before You are going to want a high quality set of Snap Ring Pliers that have a 45 deg angle. Also a Feeler Gauge to measure the end Clearance. If the Clearance is wrong, lets say to tight then some material should be ground off the end. If its to large, then a new Yoke or Welding and Grinding the Yoke will be required. Just something to plan ahead for.
If You have a vibration issue now I would have a real good look at the u-joints when You do the Yokes.
Make sure that the angle of the differential pinion and the angle of the transmission output shaft are equal but opposite. For example...
If the transmission output shaft is 3 degrees down the differential pinion angle needs to be 3 degrees up.
4 degrees down/4 degrees up,etc...
Can you clarify the angles...1/2 shaft angle from the side yoke to the trailing arm? I assumed that since the diff is hard mounted to the bat wing those angles would not be changeable (?)
If You have never removed or installed the Yokes before You are going to want a high quality set of Snap Ring Pliers that have a 45 deg angle. Also a Feeler Gauge to measure the end Clearance. If the Clearance is wrong, lets say to tight then some material should be ground off the end. If its to large, then a new Yoke or Welding and Grinding the Yoke will be required. Just something to plan ahead for.
If You have a vibration issue now I would have a real good look at the u-joints when You do the Yokes.
I am gonna take the shafts to a local shop and have the joints installed and the shafts balanced. The diff is a "new" rebuild, but I'm not overly happy as they put 1330 side yokes on instead of 1350's, I noticed that the right side seal is leaking also....less than 10 miles on it at this point....WTF!?
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