77 L-82 with A/C automatic needs Heater Core
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 2
77 L-82 with A/C automatic needs Heater Core
Please forget this post!
Mia Culpa!!!!
I had the dash apart and I looked into the heater core box door and what I saw was the A/C core (I thought it was the heater core). I said to myself that this will not come out from the passenger's side.
I pulled the box, did the R&R on the heater core (a real dirty job) everything works but I am too tired to put the gauges and pocket panel back today.
Sorry!
Thanks
Jack
77 C3
63 SWC
Mia Culpa!!!!
I had the dash apart and I looked into the heater core box door and what I saw was the A/C core (I thought it was the heater core). I said to myself that this will not come out from the passenger's side.
I pulled the box, did the R&R on the heater core (a real dirty job) everything works but I am too tired to put the gauges and pocket panel back today.
Sorry!
Thanks
Jack
77 C3
63 SWC
Last edited by xkeots; Oct 16, 2013 at 05:19 PM. Reason: My mistake
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,820
Likes: 1,728
From: Summerville SC
I don't think it can come out from the engine compartment side since on my 78 there was one screw holding it in that needs to be undone from inside. I think you will need to take the whole plastic box with the core inside it out of the car, lay it on the bench and then it's pretty simple to figure out. Mine was easy since I had already taken the dash out. I'm sure that's not what you wanted to hear! Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
Likes: 1
From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
An A/C car won't come out from the engine compartment. I believe your '77 has a split dash, but this should help with some of the little shet.
Click here....
Click here....
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
You have to take the passenger side dash apart to access the heater core. there are a few nuts in the engine compartment you will need to remove in orders to take the cover off. If I remember correctly there is also a bolt between the two tubes that comes out from underneath the car. While its out its best to replace the seal around the cover to prevent air from being lost.
Ron
Ron
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
You have to take the passenger side dash apart to access the heater core. there are a few nuts in the engine compartment you will need to remove in orders to take the cover off. If I remember correctly there is also a bolt between the two tubes that comes out from underneath the car. While its out its best to replace the seal around the cover to prevent air from being lost.
Ron
Ron
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
It will only come out from inside the car. Sounds as if you are right about here.
The box will not come out if you have hoses still on the spouts. It will also not come out until you unfasten this nut on the engine side of the firewall.
Lift the box up first for the spouts to clear the channel to the garage floor and then back and out. You will have one of these in your hands.
When you re-install use the correct 90* molded hoses to minimize stress on the spouts and maximize coolant flow. If you have to order the correct hoses then do the core job now and add the hoses later.
If you choose to order those hoses but must drive right now, run a 3/4" hose directly from the waterpump to the 5/8" hose on the intake manifold and clamp tightly. You won't have heat from the core but the car will operate fine otherwise.
The box will not come out if you have hoses still on the spouts. It will also not come out until you unfasten this nut on the engine side of the firewall.
Lift the box up first for the spouts to clear the channel to the garage floor and then back and out. You will have one of these in your hands.
When you re-install use the correct 90* molded hoses to minimize stress on the spouts and maximize coolant flow. If you have to order the correct hoses then do the core job now and add the hoses later.
If you choose to order those hoses but must drive right now, run a 3/4" hose directly from the waterpump to the 5/8" hose on the intake manifold and clamp tightly. You won't have heat from the core but the car will operate fine otherwise.
Last edited by Paul L; Oct 16, 2013 at 09:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 2
Thanks all, I just got done. Long nasty job. My bad eyes did this.
It will only come out from inside the car. Sounds as if you are right about here.
The box will not come out if you have hoses still on the spouts. It will also not come out until you unfasten this nut on the engine side of the firewall.
Lift the box up first for the spouts to clear the channel to the garage floor and then back and out. You will have one of these in your hands.
When you re-install use the correct 90* molded hoses to minimize stress on the spouts and maximize coolant flow. If you have to order the correct hoses then do the core job now and add the hoses later.
If you choose to order those hoses but must drive right now, run a 3/4" hose directly from the waterpump to the 5/8" hose on the intake manifold and clamp tightly. You won't have heat from the core but the car will operate fine otherwise.
The box will not come out if you have hoses still on the spouts. It will also not come out until you unfasten this nut on the engine side of the firewall.
Lift the box up first for the spouts to clear the channel to the garage floor and then back and out. You will have one of these in your hands.
When you re-install use the correct 90* molded hoses to minimize stress on the spouts and maximize coolant flow. If you have to order the correct hoses then do the core job now and add the hoses later.
If you choose to order those hoses but must drive right now, run a 3/4" hose directly from the waterpump to the 5/8" hose on the intake manifold and clamp tightly. You won't have heat from the core but the car will operate fine otherwise.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 2
What goes around comes around.
That A/C core was tricky as I thought that it was the heater core when I looked through the air door. I didn't see the heater core so i freaked and said "How do I get that out?" When I saw the pix I realized that the heater core was inside the box, not on the other side.
All works well but I am not getting balanced air from all of the ducts. I used duct tape and insulation inside the connecting plastic connectors and ducts. I must have an air leak somewhere or is it normal for the round air ducts on the drivers and passengers side not to blow out that much volume?
Thanks
Jack
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 2
I had a 74, 76 & a 77 when they were brand new. I bought this one for the memory. I do remember how the switch works and I appreciate the tip.
When I had all of the ducts out the main blower hole was blowing strong. As I started putting everything back together I started using foam insulator around the duct joints and there was no air leaking out of the joints. The defroster, heat, and center ducts are strong (with A/C max or normal and on high fan the center duct is strong) it's the sides that are just not blowing out how I remember them. There are no leaks and all vacuum lines are working correctly.
Thanks
Jack
77 C3
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Ron,
I had a 74, 76 & a 77 when they were brand new. I bought this one for the memory. I do remember how the switch works and I appreciate the tip.
When I had all of the ducts out the main blower hole was blowing strong. As I started putting everything back together I started using foam insulator around the duct joints and there was no air leaking out of the joints. The defroster, heat, and center ducts are strong (with A/C max or normal and on high fan the center duct is strong) it's the sides that are just not blowing out how I remember them. There are no leaks and all vacuum lines are working correctly.
Thanks
Jack
77 C3
I had a 74, 76 & a 77 when they were brand new. I bought this one for the memory. I do remember how the switch works and I appreciate the tip.
When I had all of the ducts out the main blower hole was blowing strong. As I started putting everything back together I started using foam insulator around the duct joints and there was no air leaking out of the joints. The defroster, heat, and center ducts are strong (with A/C max or normal and on high fan the center duct is strong) it's the sides that are just not blowing out how I remember them. There are no leaks and all vacuum lines are working correctly.
Thanks
Jack
77 C3
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
My 77 does not blow alot of air from the side vents. I did this a few years ago, now I am wondering if there is a door that might not be quite right??? Might be another winter project 
. If you figure it out, please let me know.
Ron
. If you figure it out, please let me know.Ron
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 2
I had it apart a few times. that black **** that pulls out and pushes in just opens and closes a flap on a spring inside the vent behind the chrome ball to let air out or shut it.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
xkeots,
http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...ROL_VACUUM.pdf
here is the link I used when I rebuilt mine, I am wandering if you have a door that not opening and closing right.
Ron
http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...ROL_VACUUM.pdf
here is the link I used when I rebuilt mine, I am wandering if you have a door that not opening and closing right.
Ron