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wiper door vac canister

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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Default wiper door vac canister

Is there any way to test the wiper door vacuum canister without a vacuum source? Motor is not in car yet and I do not have any kind of vacuum pump. I cannot push or pull rod/bolt that exits out the back by hand. It's out of a 69 BB car.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Use a vacuum line from a another car.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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With both vacuum lines disconnected, you should be able to push/pull the shaft in and out (slowly) without much effort- If you can't, it's probably frozen.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 05:49 PM
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You might find another car to use as a test donor for vacuum...

If the actuator holds vacuum on the back side, the diaphragm inside is good. if it leaks on the backside, then you need an actuator.

If it leaks on the front but no on the backside, you need to replace the shaft seal.

This picture is for headlamp actuators but it's the exact same for the wiper door actuator.


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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:04 AM
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Thanks gents. Time for a little perswation I guess. Probably frozen like ezobens says cuzz I can't move it at all by hand.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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I don.t think the canister itself could freeze up to the point the shaft will not move. If you remove the canister from the mount, I think you will find that it is actually the wiper linkage itself that is frozen.
With the canister off of the car, put a finger on the hose nipple opposite the shaft and if the shaft moves (provided the plug is solid if it is the later pie pan style) the diaphram is bad.
Cover the nipple on the shaft side and if the shaft moves, provided the last test indicates the diaphram is good, the shaft seal is shot as Wilcox said.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Shaft will not move in or out. Not even in a vise!!!! Guess the old thing is just tired. Too bad, those things are expensive!!! ($140)
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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You have the early or late design? You'll have to measure the shaft size to see, but early was 1/4" shaft, late used 5/16" shaft.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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Default How long is yours ?

1969 BB car. Wiper actuator on firewall has a shaft going through firewall. That shaft connects to a "wiper door actuator rod nut". That in turn is connected to a "link" that pivots. My "link" may have been broke off short at one time. I only have about 4 threads left on it. That's enough to thread onto the rod nut but may be too short. Anybody know how long or maybe just how many threads are on a good link? I just don't want to buy one if this one is the correct length. Thanks
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:27 PM
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5/16" shaft. Early style
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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Just dbl checked that. Yeah, early is the bigger one with 5/16 shaft.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=2057

If you use the 15 off sale code that is running till midnight tonight you'll get it at 135.99.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
You might find another car to use as a test donor for vacuum...

If the actuator holds vacuum on the back side, the diaphragm inside is good. if it leaks on the backside, then you need an actuator.

If it leaks on the front but no on the backside, you need to replace the shaft seal.

This picture is for headlamp actuators but it's the exact same for the wiper door actuator.

Do you carry the vacuum shaft seals for the plenum doors (the thin canisters)? How about the canisters themselves (not the one with the hooked shaft)?

Are there any rebuild kits for the kick panel door (would need the small rivets and the rubber seal)?
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 12:43 AM
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I looked all around for actuator rod seals, I just can't find them anywhere. I did manage to find the vent door seal and rivet kit.
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Use a vacuum line from a another car.
Lacking another source of vacuum at the time, I just sucked on the line to the headlights and mildy amused myself watching the headlights rise and fall Probably not a good idea for heavy smokers
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