generator light troubleshooting
I purchased a '77 about a month ago.
The generator light is on, and the voltage gauge shows nothing happening.
I pulled the alternator today, took it to advance, and it tested bad (DC volts, whatever that means)...
I replaced it with a Powermaster unit.
The generator light is still on, and there is till nothing happening on the Voltage gauge.

I put my circuit tester on the battery terminals, engine running, and it read 14.27, which means the alternator is charging, correct?
Where do I start? It is also worth mentioning that the temp gauge does not work (already tested the sending unit, and that is not the issue), the fuel gauge "floats," and the oil gauge seems to work (but also does not go back to 0 when I shut the car down...not sure if it is all related, and I just need a new printed circuit or what...
How do I troubleshoot? I'd really like to drive the thing with some peace of mind at least once before I put it away for winter!
Thanks!
SO, to unplug the 2 pin connector, and with the car OFF, measure what should be a RED wire it should be live with battery voltage....
All the replacement connectors I have seen at the parts house are coded the more common color codes....RED is the most clockwise pin as viewed from the back of the alt......that is the one that is alway hot at whatever voltage ....
the WHITE wire is only live through the bulb, and is pulled down to zero to light your dash idiot light when the alt is not putting out.....most of the dash lights are rather dim if the two wires are reversed.....
but you need a voltmeter....to check this stuff.....try Harbor Freight for a cheep VM you can keep in the car.....
So, I'll check and see which one is hot with 12 volts with the car off...
The 12 volt wire (with the car off), goes on the right most (when viewing from behind), correct? If I read your message correctly...
SO, to unplug the 2 pin connector, and with the car OFF, measure what should be a RED wire it should be live with battery voltage....
All the replacement connectors I have seen at the parts house are coded the more common color codes....RED is the most clockwise pin as viewed from the back of the alt......that is the one that is alway hot at whatever voltage ....
the WHITE wire is only live through the bulb, and is pulled down to zero to light your dash idiot light when the alt is not putting out.....most of the dash lights are rather dim if the two wires are reversed.....
but you need a voltmeter....to check this stuff.....try Harbor Freight for a cheep VM you can keep in the car.....
OK--just tested with voltmeter, and red wire does have 12.27 volts, engine off, no key in ignition...It is plugged into the right most terminal (clockwise position form rear)...
What's next?
it may be worth mentioning that the gauge has worked, and the light off when I bought the car a few weeks ago. The issue was first "intermittent" and has now become "persistent." Not sure if that makes a difference or not...Nothing's changed--it would work OK sometimes, and not others--now, never at all...
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Good luck.
red = 14.30
white = 0.00
red on back of alternator (main connection) = 14.33
connector plugged in, probing the connector:
Red = 14.3
white = 14.3
red on back of alternator = 14.33
Yes, the gauge reading 0 and the generator light coming on issues happened at the same time.
The light does NOT come on with the key on, engine off. The gauge also does not move at all with the key on, engine off...
if this turns out to be as simple as the fuse, I will be somewhat embarrassed that i did not check there first...
Thanks for the help, and I'll definitely dial back in when I get a chance to mess with it some more!













