76 turn over but no start
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
76 turn over but no start
I just recently purchase a 76 and have been driving for 2 months. it has progressively been getting worse with engine cut out when I hit the gas from a stop - runs fairly well once out of first gear. It backfires from time to time as well.
Couple items:
there are no catalytic converters
carburetor is due for a rebuild
plug wires were replaced in August
new air filter in August
last cap and rotor replacement and timing set from records was 2005
I hopped in the car today - the engine turns over but now wont start. Any help on where to start?
anybody in Kansas City area who may be able to help? My regular mechanic wanted $600 for a tune-up so I told him to fly a kite since I know that is highway robbery!
thanks!
Couple items:
there are no catalytic converters
carburetor is due for a rebuild
plug wires were replaced in August
new air filter in August
last cap and rotor replacement and timing set from records was 2005
I hopped in the car today - the engine turns over but now wont start. Any help on where to start?
anybody in Kansas City area who may be able to help? My regular mechanic wanted $600 for a tune-up so I told him to fly a kite since I know that is highway robbery!
thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Probably best to post in your regional forum for someone to come and help out.
Not sure my answer is helpful - timing, then carb. It sounds like possibly the distributor is slightly loose and has been slowly taking out timing to the point now where it's not going to start.
All that's required for a tune up is a cheap dwell meter (if needed for points), a timing light and a little time.
Not sure my answer is helpful - timing, then carb. It sounds like possibly the distributor is slightly loose and has been slowly taking out timing to the point now where it's not going to start.
All that's required for a tune up is a cheap dwell meter (if needed for points), a timing light and a little time.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Irma Northern WI
There are a few things that you can look at for yourself with a small amount of mechanical ability. Make certain that you have fuel flow to the carb, check to see if you have spark. You can also remove a spark plug and make sure that you have compression. That one requires some knowledge of compression characteristics though. Since it has been getting worse as time passes and difficult to start now, I would look closely at the fuel supply, such as a plugged fuel filter or failing accelerator pump. Sorry that I can not be of more help from this distance but, that gives you some place to start. If you are not rich, you should learn how to work on these cars or ownership will not be the best experience. They are relatively easy cars to learn on and fun to drive. Best of luck!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
thanks gents! I'm fairly mechanically savvy, so I don't have any problems tearing into it! I just replaced the brake booster and master cylinder fairly easily given all the info available on this site!
I will pick up a timing light and a new cap and rotor are on the way. I just didn't know if there may be other issues based on everyone's experience. At least I know I'm going the right direction. I can smell fuel, so don't think that's the issue but will replace the filter and go from there.
I'll keep ya posted if I run into additional snags. May just need a quick second pair of hands with more experience than I currently have. I really appreciate the quick replies!
I will pick up a timing light and a new cap and rotor are on the way. I just didn't know if there may be other issues based on everyone's experience. At least I know I'm going the right direction. I can smell fuel, so don't think that's the issue but will replace the filter and go from there.
I'll keep ya posted if I run into additional snags. May just need a quick second pair of hands with more experience than I currently have. I really appreciate the quick replies!
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Smelling fuel? Take Billla's advice and check your timing. Can you rotate your distributor without loosening the locking clamp?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
From: coon rapids mn
if you have no spark at the plugs,test for power to the distributor .is the choke open or closed ? do you have oil pressure ?take the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is turning .hope your timing chain didn't jump a tooth or 2 .
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
managed to at least get it in the garage. it tries to start but is obviously missing - has an almost bogged out type attempt at starting. something has definitely changed quickly as it drove almost perfectly yesterday.
pulled the distributor cap and it looks a little worn.
[IMG]
I can spin the rotor with effort but feels solid. nothing else moves so assume that's good?
I have never adjusted the timing but certainly up for it if that's the issue. A timing chain slip sounds like an entirely different story and one maybe beyond my ability unless I want it in the garage for a month....how would I know if it was the chain?
pulled the distributor cap and it looks a little worn.
[IMG]I can spin the rotor with effort but feels solid. nothing else moves so assume that's good?
I have never adjusted the timing but certainly up for it if that's the issue. A timing chain slip sounds like an entirely different story and one maybe beyond my ability unless I want it in the garage for a month....how would I know if it was the chain?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
and....only way it comes even close to trying to start is if I manually open the choke and get gas into the carb. manually moving the linkage and I can see gas flow freely - so it may be a host of issues simultaneously.....
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
That cap has a pile of carbon on the terminals, time for it to go. Assume when you say you can "spin" the rotor that you mean you can rotate it a short distance and then it will spring back if you let go?
If so, I doubt it is a timing issue.
Have you checked for spark yet? That is always step one for me. Pull a wire and use a spare plug to test...get someone to bump the ignition over for you while you look for a spark (unless you have a light). That will answer the question about spark pretty quickly in most cases.
If there's no spark, a common culprit on your car is the HEI module.
If you have spark, then look at fuel delivery problems. Change the filter as a matter of course if you haven't already, but maybe you're looking at a gummed up needle and seat in the carb. Happens all the time, and can get progressively worse. Commonly this causes a flooding condition as well, which you don't seem to have.
If so, I doubt it is a timing issue.
Have you checked for spark yet? That is always step one for me. Pull a wire and use a spare plug to test...get someone to bump the ignition over for you while you look for a spark (unless you have a light). That will answer the question about spark pretty quickly in most cases.
If there's no spark, a common culprit on your car is the HEI module.
If you have spark, then look at fuel delivery problems. Change the filter as a matter of course if you haven't already, but maybe you're looking at a gummed up needle and seat in the carb. Happens all the time, and can get progressively worse. Commonly this causes a flooding condition as well, which you don't seem to have.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
That cap has a pile of carbon on the terminals, time for it to go. Assume when you say you can "spin" the rotor that you mean you can rotate it a short distance and then it will spring back if you let go?
If so, I doubt it is a timing issue.
Have you checked for spark yet? That is always step one for me. Pull a wire and use a spare plug to test...get someone to bump the ignition over for you while you look for a spark (unless you have a light). That will answer the question about spark pretty quickly in most cases.
If there's no spark, a common culprit on your car is the HEI module.
If you have spark, then look at fuel delivery problems. Change the filter as a matter of course if you haven't already, but maybe you're looking at a gummed up needle and seat in the carb. Happens all the time, and can get progressively worse. Commonly this causes a flooding condition as well, which you don't seem to have.
If so, I doubt it is a timing issue.
Have you checked for spark yet? That is always step one for me. Pull a wire and use a spare plug to test...get someone to bump the ignition over for you while you look for a spark (unless you have a light). That will answer the question about spark pretty quickly in most cases.
If there's no spark, a common culprit on your car is the HEI module.
If you have spark, then look at fuel delivery problems. Change the filter as a matter of course if you haven't already, but maybe you're looking at a gummed up needle and seat in the carb. Happens all the time, and can get progressively worse. Commonly this causes a flooding condition as well, which you don't seem to have.
I have a new rotor and cap coming along with new spark plugs and wires. I know this will help, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction on what to do with the distributor not springing back - I assume I need it overhauled or replaced to avoid further issues down the road?
Thanks for everyone's feedback!!! at least I have a running car at the moment - and there is no hesitation from a stop.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Cool 
I would still definitely verify the timing.
In terms of the "distributor not springing back", what was being referred to is the advance plate inside the distributor, not the whole distributor.
I would still definitely verify the timing.
In terms of the "distributor not springing back", what was being referred to is the advance plate inside the distributor, not the whole distributor.
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
Better check your timing at this point...especially if you are moving the whole distributor, at all.
Sounds like your advance springs and weights might be in rough shape. Based on the amount of carbon that the cap showed, I'd pull off the rotor and have a look under there to see what it looks like.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Overland Park Kansas
Yes.
Better check your timing at this point...especially if you are moving the whole distributor, at all.
Sounds like your advance springs and weights might be in rough shape. Based on the amount of carbon that the cap showed, I'd pull off the rotor and have a look under there to see what it looks like.
Better check your timing at this point...especially if you are moving the whole distributor, at all.
Sounds like your advance springs and weights might be in rough shape. Based on the amount of carbon that the cap showed, I'd pull off the rotor and have a look under there to see what it looks like.
I dug through all the documentation I have on the car from the previous owner and I don't see the distributor has ever been replaced/repaired. Last cap and rotor swap was in '01. New plugs were put in a year ago and new wires were just put on. Not sure why everything done at separate times but is what it is. I'm doing all this weekend, but it sounds like I may want to get a distributor on order as well and remove that problem too unless there is a simpler solution?
the labor of love begins
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I would suggest not pulling the trigger on a new distributor until you have to. The upper end getting rusty and sticking is a pretty easy fix. Pulling the distributor and checking all the bushings and cleaning it all up is easy, as is getting it re-installed and setting up the timing and curve.
As I said, I'll be home the 22nd for a couple of weeks and will be happy to take a look and assist you with fixing whatever it needs.
If your distributor is past an easy fix, I have located a source in KC for new. (probably made in China, but they do work- I bought one for another project)
As I said, I'll be home the 22nd for a couple of weeks and will be happy to take a look and assist you with fixing whatever it needs.
If your distributor is past an easy fix, I have located a source in KC for new. (probably made in China, but they do work- I bought one for another project)
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
With Tim on the distributor...try to rebuild it first if that ends up being necessary rather than dumping it for a new one. I've found that old and restored is frequently better then new when it comes to cars like ours. Good luck.