Need front spring removal info ASAP
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 29,745
Likes: 3
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Need front spring removal info ASAP (ORVette)
Between the top of the steering knuckle, where the ball joint mounts through, and the ball joint itself.
There will be a rubber dust boot over the ball joint, between the spindle and the upper a-arm. That is where you need to put the pickle fork.
Yes, you will destroy the dust boot. Have another one ready if you are not replacing the entire ball joint.
The "Help" section in most auto parts stores have spare ball joint dust boots.
There will be a rubber dust boot over the ball joint, between the spindle and the upper a-arm. That is where you need to put the pickle fork.
Yes, you will destroy the dust boot. Have another one ready if you are not replacing the entire ball joint.
The "Help" section in most auto parts stores have spare ball joint dust boots.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Springfield Oregon
Re: Need front spring removal info ASAP (ORVette)
Tried one side, couldn't get it to pop. Have a big 3/8" chain double wrapped around the spring/lower a arm for safety. As I have read, my pickle forks are too long and are hitting the frame. Hard to get a good shot at it from the side. I'll wait until tomorrow and go to Sears and get the right tool for the job. Thanks again for the help!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 29,745
Likes: 3
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Need front spring removal info ASAP (ORVette)
Last time I pulled my springs, I popped the lower ball joint using a ball joint seperator form the local parts store -- they had them as a rental.
Basically it was a claw that slipped over the end of the steering knuckle where the ball joint passes through it. Then you tighten up a center bolt and that presses the ball joint back up through the end of the steering knuckle.
Worked so well I changed out both front springs in 1 hour, with some help from the wife.
I personally won't use a pickle fork again -- I think they suck and they always tear up the dust boot.
By the way, which Sanderson headers do you have, and do you like them. I was thinking of getting the cast manifolds with the A.I.R. system pipes so I can still pass emissions.
[Modified by BSeery, 11:57 PM 7/8/2002]
Basically it was a claw that slipped over the end of the steering knuckle where the ball joint passes through it. Then you tighten up a center bolt and that presses the ball joint back up through the end of the steering knuckle.
Worked so well I changed out both front springs in 1 hour, with some help from the wife.
I personally won't use a pickle fork again -- I think they suck and they always tear up the dust boot.
By the way, which Sanderson headers do you have, and do you like them. I was thinking of getting the cast manifolds with the A.I.R. system pipes so I can still pass emissions.
[Modified by BSeery, 11:57 PM 7/8/2002]
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 752
Likes: 1
From: Springfield Oregon
Re: Need front spring removal info ASAP (BSeery)
Bryan,
Well, I since saw a picture of a homemade tool utilizing a deep socket, a long bolt, and a nut and washer, that looked like it would be pretty effective at seperating the ball joints, but too late for #1. Oh well, I'm used to replacing a bunch of stuff I could've saved on my first attempt. My Sandersons are QP1001 ,I believe. They have 1 1/2" primaries going into 2 1/2" collector's. Thay are basically cast iron shorty headers. I do not know how well they flow compared to long tube headers, but they seem to work well for my application. Not too hot under the hood, plus they look kind of cool. Wish I could find some flow #'s for them. I don't know too much about them other than what I've read on the Sanderson website. Here's a couple crappy pic's I have from when the motor was out.
[Modified by ORVette, 11:21 PM 7/8/2002]
Well, I since saw a picture of a homemade tool utilizing a deep socket, a long bolt, and a nut and washer, that looked like it would be pretty effective at seperating the ball joints, but too late for #1. Oh well, I'm used to replacing a bunch of stuff I could've saved on my first attempt. My Sandersons are QP1001 ,I believe. They have 1 1/2" primaries going into 2 1/2" collector's. Thay are basically cast iron shorty headers. I do not know how well they flow compared to long tube headers, but they seem to work well for my application. Not too hot under the hood, plus they look kind of cool. Wish I could find some flow #'s for them. I don't know too much about them other than what I've read on the Sanderson website. Here's a couple crappy pic's I have from when the motor was out.
[Modified by ORVette, 11:21 PM 7/8/2002]
