I have recently replaced a heater core in my 72 convertible. This a non a/c car so the core came out from the engine side. I did remove the pass side dash insert and console, radio to fix some loose screws. After getting it all back together it will not crank and just makes a noise from behind the distributor. The noise sounds like a starter solenoid but the noise id not coming from there. Battery is fully charged. I am posting a video of the noise when I try to crank it. It would start just fine before this. Not sure what I might have left loose. Thanks for any help. I'm attaching the link to the video

 

are both battery cables tight ?check the wiring harness that goes to the starter ,maybe a connection is loose .

 

Sounds like a starter problem. If you have good voltage at the battery and the gauge is not being drawn down while cranking, I would suspect the starter motor. A few taps with the hammer may free it up. If so,I would get a replacement right away, before you get left somewhere. My 2 cents.

 

Well the noise is coming from under the radio front of the console. Checked all the connections and so fourth all good. Still no crank!!!

 

Noise is just the wiper relay. It is not related . Just found this!!

 

neutral safety switch!!!! Got it!!

 

I had exactly the same problem yesterday afternoon.....even had a puff of smoke coming up "?from?" the wiper motor along with the clicking sound. I quickly turned the key off and disconnected the wiper harness just in case!

I found that the yellow wire to the starter solenoid was poorly splice in two different places (weird) in the harness by previous owners...the purple starter solenoid wire was also poorly spliced.

I finally had to install a separate chassis ground cable to the ground bolt on the starter.....all problems "went away"!

 

Ok now just trying to run a jumper wire just as a temporary fix. This thug will start fine when I use my power probe and perfect. But as soon as I run a jumper wire then the hot wire goes dead!!!! The connection is good and tight on both sides I checked already. This thing is crazy!!

 

You just lost me. Here is what I did to find the problem(s)......

Recheck fuses.

Disconnect both purple wires at the neutral switch.


Connect a test light or multimeter to each purple wire to determine the one that supplies 12V when the key is turned to the crank position.

Hold the key in the crank position and wiggle that section of wiring and the harness to see if 12V stays constant--repair if necessary.

Connect the 12V supply wire to the neutral switch--connect the testlight or M.Meter to the output terminal on the neutral switch...turn the key to the crank position/thump the switch wiggle the supply wire...shift the handle from park to neutral--the 12V should come on in Park/Neutral consistently....and no voltage when in any other "gear".........got 12V at the correct shift points?

Connect the remaining purple wire to the output terminal of the safety switch.

Disconnect the purple wire-connection at the starter solenoid...attach test light/etc to the purple wire connector and set the test light/M.Meter where you can see it while hoding the key in the crank position-----even better....get someone to hold the key in crank position for you while you wiggle the harness vigorously to check for loose/broken purple wire somewhere in the harness....got 12V constantly at the connection with switch in crank position? If not...happy hunting in the wiring harness and INSIDE the firewall connection block (those connecting points in there can get loose/burn up causing unseen problems)

While you're there...check the battery lead to the starter for 12V/also check the yellow wire for 12V with the key in the RUN position....got 12V?

And add a frame ground cable to the starter ground bolt/lug--it can only help!

WHEW!! I think everything is in the correct order!

 

Will do. I did disconnect the switch and I have power when key is in the crank position. I can use my power probe to give the other side of the connection power and the car will crank. Like I said the wire is hot but as soon as the jumper wire is hooked up that side of the connection looses power. I can remove the wire and wow I have 12v.