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Any suggestions on who to use to install a Comp Cam kit in Austin, Texas area? I could try to install it, but have never done one, but would love to do it myself. But, probably better to have someone else do it. It is on a 383 Stroker motor.
The final decision is up to you, but any of the How To Rebuild Your Smallblock Chevrolet books will have a chapter on cam installation and set up.
Yeah, I have one, but having to degree the cam and all I am really unsure about. I do have the instructions from Comp. I have really wanted to learn how to install one. Probably will, but just don't want to install it and have all kinds of probs and have to tear it down again.
I swapped my hydraulic flat tappet cam for roller this year. Took months due to some complications and my limited schedule. However, I learned a lot and picked up some nice tools.
Biggest deal is keeping everything organized. Thankfully, I did not have to deal with cam break-in; not required with a roller cam. However, I should have taken more pictures of the front accessory brackets as I had to dig up pictures from the internet. Also, planning for the unexpected; like a broken crank damper install tool that led to my having to pull the engine to remove it (10 minute removal and 5-day engine disconnect, pull and reconnect).
If you are hesitant to undertake, post your project on the forum and leverage the knowledge of others that have done it. You may have some surprises but you will learn more and even make new friends along the way. And, you get the bragging rights and can pay it forward by helping others with same projects.
If you decided to do it your self, would you have a place to do it? Like a friend who would let you do it in his garage? He would have to be cool with the possibility that the car may be in his garage for several weeks, if something does not go as planned.
If you have this option available, I say just jump in and take a crack at it! If you get in over your head, the members of this forum will bail you out. Its like having a safety net.
I swapped my hydraulic flat tappet cam for roller this year. Took months due to some complications and my limited schedule. However, I learned a lot and picked up some nice tools.
Biggest deal is keeping everything organized. Thankfully, I did not have to deal with cam break-in; not required with a roller cam. However, I should have taken more pictures of the front accessory brackets as I had to dig up pictures from the internet. Also, planning for the unexpected; like a broken crank damper install tool that led to my having to pull the engine to remove it (10 minute removal and 5-day engine disconnect, pull and reconnect).
If you are hesitant to undertake, post your project on the forum and leverage the knowledge of others that have done it. You may have some surprises but you will learn more and even make new friends along the way. And, you get the bragging rights and can pay it forward by helping others with same projects.
Thanks for the feedback. I have intermediate knowledge at best, but really want to do it myself. I appreciate your comments and if I decide to do it myself I will definitely post the project and get some valuable help.
Thanks for the feedback. I have intermediate knowledge at best, but really want to do it myself. I appreciate your comments and if I decide to do it myself I will definitely post the project and get some valuable help.
Thanks again
Glad to help. This was my first cam swap I performed without watching others. I have been 'second fiddle' on all prior cam installs (total of three) since I was 15 years old. This time, with the fact I did not have to deal with cam break-in (and using my own garage), I took my time and did plenty of research and got 'forum feedback. I have removed/installed most other parts on the top end of my small block so, other than cam/lifter install, I had been down those roads before.
Best of luck on your project. Be sure to post progress whether you perform or pay to have it installed.
Find someone with experience who can do the install (another Vette owner)....pay them to do the cam (You save some money over a speed-shop doing it) with the agreement that the "friend" shows you every step in the process........
If you decided to do it your self, would you have a place to do it? Like a friend who would let you do it in his garage? He would have to be cool with the possibility that the car may be in his garage for several weeks, if something does not go as planned.
If you have this option available, I say just jump in and take a crack at it! If you get in over your head, the members of this forum will bail you out. Its like having a safety net.
Scott
I have my garage that I work in at home and an abundance of tools so that isn't a problem. I will just have to break out the beer on a weekend and have a couple buddies to help. Bring my younger son out and teach him some motor work.
Find someone with experience who can do the install (another Vette owner)....pay them to do the cam (You save some money over a speed-shop doing it) with the agreement that the "friend" shows you every step in the process........
I have my garage that I work in at home and an abundance of tools so that isn't a problem. I will just have to break out the beer on a weekend and have a couple buddies to help. Bring my younger son out and teach him some motor work.
Thanks.
There ya go! Never let an opportunity to bond with your son slip by.
having to degree the cam and all I am really unsure about. I do have the instructions from Comp.
I have two comments about degreeing your cam.
1. Unless you are standing there watching the mechanic do the install and verify that he actually did it AND did it correctly, How will you know if he actually did it? (is that really nitrogen the dealer put in my tires?)
2. The comp instructions say it isn't absolutely necessary.
I am not saying its not a good idea or has no value. I am suggesting that unless you do it yourself, it may not actually get done or done correctly.
Also, unless you find an old school hot rodder, they may not know the special requirements for flat tappet cams, if you selected a flat tappet.
A cam install is a major job but tremendously satisfying when completed.
1. Unless you are standing there watching the mechanic do the install and verify that he actually did it AND did it correctly, How will you know if he actually did it? (is that really nitrogen the dealer put in my tires?)
2. The comp instructions say it isn't absolutely necessary.
I am not saying its not a good idea or has no value. I am suggesting that unless you do it yourself, it may not actually get done or done correctly.
Also, unless you find an old school hot rodder, they may not know the special requirements for flat tappet cams, if you selected a flat tappet.
A cam install is a major job but tremendously satisfying when completed.
Best regards either way you choose.
ALL of my cams have been installed with the crank and cam 'dots' perfectly aligned. No degreeing required. Granted, they are not extreme duration or lift. With the tech cam manufacturers have today (in my experience Comp and Crane), all I have to do is 'align the dots'... as long as I am not exceeding the clearances of the piston-to-valve.
Even if I did degree the cam... what would I do? I don't have an adjustable bushing or advance/retard positions on my cam gear or crank gear.
I am not meaning to be obnoxious. Just, want to know what I am missing. Thank you!
if your doing a flat tappet cam here are some tips
1. clean the cam with mineral spirits, then clean it again.
2.apply moly lube to the lobes not assembly lube or wheel bearing grease
3. apply moly lube to the lifter face
4. use a break in oil with zinc, after break in drain it and use a quality oil with zinc.
i believe a large number of cam failures have happened because of using the wrong lubricants , i saw a guy in a shop smearing the lobes with wheel bearing grease one day and brought it to the shop owners attention , i didn't make a friend and you would have thought i had three heads by the reaction i got. a friend with the shop next door told me later they wiped that cam bad.that shop has since gone out of business.
ALL of my cams have been installed with the crank and cam 'dots' perfectly aligned. No degreeing required. Granted, they are not extreme duration or lift. With the tech cam manufacturers have today (in my experience Comp and Crane), all I have to do is 'align the dots'... as long as I am not exceeding the clearances of the piston-to-valve.
Even if I did degree the cam... what would I do? I don't have an adjustable bushing or advance/retard positions on my cam gear or crank gear.
I am not meaning to be obnoxious. Just, want to know what I am missing. Thank you!
It is flat tappet hydraulic cam. I do know that I need break in oil and have studied the process very carefully. I have often wondered if you really needed to degree a cam. From days of my youth I never saw any of my racing friends ever talk about having to degree a cam. I just don't want to have those gremlins show up after the install. I am going to call Comp Cams and discuss whether that process is really needed.
Thanks for the input everybody. Going to remove the old cam this weekend and go from there. I retired early so I have every day free to do this project. I hope to get it done in a couple days. lol...maybe.
i always looked at degreeing a cam as a tuning aid. you start with it straight up and if you need to you go back in to advance or retard to get it where you need it.
You don't need to degree a cam, way overkill unless you want every last pony out of that engine. Usually engines making 800+ hp get degree'd. Throw that cam in and align the dots on the sprockets that's about it. Plus when you degree a cam you do it with the heads off and have to have a degree kit. I've done it twice and to me it was not worth the effort and time.
I disagree, Degreeing a cam is to verify that the cam shaft is installed to spec, cam shaft centerlines can be off. I personal like to coat the camshaft with gm e.o.s. ... You can change the can do this and to do it with your son gets the next generation into hot roding.
Little more fuel for the fire. I degree-ed a cam once. Learned a little esoteric knowledge, but nothing unusual. Had always done simple dot to dot, and will continue in future, if I ever do it again.
I have never seen a post where cam was ground wrong, or where degreeing found anything out of what it should have been. Maybe someone will correct me on that.
I always degree the cam and I've never - ever - found anything out of spec. To be fair, I only use off-the-shelf cams from reputable vendors- almost exclusively CompCams - and nothing particularly extreme.
That said, being a good engine builder is all about learning to make precision measurements accurately and consistently. While you may not *need* to degree the cam, you certainly *can* - both as a check of the cam and installation as well as a check on your precision measuring skills.
The decision to advance or retard the cam to move the power peaks is made at the time the cam is purchased.
Use CAM LUBE from your cam vendor or another good one - nothing else.