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guys earlier this year i got my lower control arm on drivers side fixed. it was seperating from chassis or the front crossmember. todayi had to get my crossmember fixed and ended up paying another amount of money to fix another tear. check your chassis andget it reenforced its better to do it now where you can shop around and find someone knowledgable and and able to do the job right.that and its dangerous if you dont know whats going on down there in the chassis..here a few pics sad day especially since i am broke and have been trying to save to install a t56.
My car will pull about 1.3g! Thus I rewelded and gusseted the crap out of the car. I am putting the rollcage back in with chromoly being in the process of replacing the old steel also! And the guy above with the speader bar was a wise suggestion!
Even on a stock Corvette, I think they should be rewelded in those locations. They all will crack!!!!!!!!!!! Usually why guys can't get the suspensions to align.
exactly from what i heard chevy didnt do a "complete"weld throughout the chassis.its a stock vette but it has been twice i had to go to a shop for emergency welding two costly mistakes that i hope people will avoid my putting gussets and finishing weld on the chassis and that spreader bar might be something i will do.
It's a adjustable bar that is bolted between the upper A-Arm attachments and keeps the curved front crossmember from flexing.
If a original mechanical cooling fan is used, it might be difficult to install it, but is is possible. All part vendors offer this. VB&P for sure does.
They offer 2 types, once a prewelded bar, only fits if no mechanical fan is there , then a unwelded one that can be positioned in the car for best location and then welded.
Both are finally only bolted on between the A-Frames.
Cost around 100 USD, nothing for the safety it provides.
In a way. Strut tower bars typically limit the flex from the spring towers as found in unibody cars. A spreader bar actually uses both sides of the frame as reinforcing points to limit frame flex. It does not tie the frame to the body as a tower bar tends to do, giving a three point brace.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Zip sells a front crossmember repair:http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={bc5617d7-1d48-41a4-bdc0-864b11e00518}&gid={2ecd0d3a-0b6f-4f3e-bead-078294fd7fde}&GroupName=Frame+Crossmembe rs&pname=63-82+Frame+%231+Front+Crossmember+Repair&R eferer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&.
Though out of stock they post they can ship by 12-27-13.
It's probably a hell of a job to replace this repair metal sheet because the A-Arms need to be disconnected and I believe it even goes around the spring pouches.
I'm planning on replacing it on my 68 due to corrosion and heavily bend due to jacking , but will leave this till a frame off resto latest in 5 Years.
A professional weld repair should also take care of this crack.
You won't be able to buy this particular one in a store!
Because I made it! This is what we are basically talking about. A number of Suspension parts guys sell kits!
I moved this from one of my older posts in another thread where this stuff came up in conversation awhile back!
"""A big block really can benefit from a spreader bar, but you would have to engineer that in on a big block. Fitting one on a big block car is more difficult than a small block. Thus some guys actually cross brace the frame at points below where a spreader bar mounts.
This is when I was running solid uppers, how I had my spreader bar engineered, before switching to the SPC's"""
Last edited by TCracingCA; Dec 27, 2013 at 03:51 AM.