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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 01:09 PM
  #21  
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I don't have a 383 but my shepherd auto parts 3 row aluminum radiator with my 2-speed fan from an early 90's mercury cougar together do a fantastic job of cooling my mildly built 350. Total cost was well under $200 for everything.

With my 160 thermostat, I can turn the fan on high and watch the gauge slowly creep down to 160.

Attachment 48374204

Ignore the crazy fuel line routing and the glass filter, I corrected that dangerous setup since taking this picture.

Last edited by AboveTheLogic; Jan 14, 2014 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 01:36 PM
  #22  
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BeCool and twin fans rated to 700hp. Works great!

Les
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 10:11 AM
  #23  
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I also have Dewitt's aluminum radiator with dual spal fans, 160 thermostat, Edelbrock Victor Jr reverse flow waterpump, and March underdrive pulleys with a serpentine setup. I also made sealed cold air induction to the air cleaner. I've driven it hard on the street, no track yet, and it's never run hot.
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gkull
I don't buy part of the given explanation.
I don't know which part you don't buy, but it's really all true. The only reason those pieces of key stock are there is to give you someplace to mount the radiator and in your case they gave you two of them. That's so they can use the same radiator for the 26" and 27.5". The normal place to mount is on the header plate, which the tank welds to, shown in our photo. Here you can see the 1/4 wide fillet weld that cause such a stir with some people. If you were hell bent on the thing fitting like jello in a mold, you could trim one edge of the rubber cushion that lays on the weld and that would take about two minutes.


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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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I am running a mild 385 in my 71 and replaced my factory radiator (that had a few soldered up tubes) with a DeWitt unit because I wanted closest to stock.

It is sprayed black so it looks more factory as well.

I run dual fans with my own controller bringing them in as required.

I had teh option of some very good (Aussie Desert Cooler) radiators but they did not look stock and thats what I wanted.

90%+ of the time only one fan max is needed to keep it cool, even on very hot days.

If your sitting in traffic and the second fan kicks in it come back down very fast.

I can only compare it the original one i had and it fitted with just some minor tweeking of the new rubber seats and that was because my aftermarket core support has the spacing out on one side by 1/4" from the original.

Last edited by CraigH; Jan 10, 2014 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 10:31 PM
  #26  
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I agree with RDCRIS. If you increase the horsepower, you may have to increase the cooling system capacity as well. I understand that some corvettes have a three core radiator which should be replaced with a four core for higher hp applications. Also, a copper radiator disspates heat better than an aluminum one, and for my year (79) an aluminum radiator is $100 more. So if weight isn't an issue, you could consider that. You should also think about using a high volume water pump. Here's a couple links with good info.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0...ooling_system/

http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html

Hope this helps and good luck.

MajD
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 12:45 PM
  #27  
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383 - 450/450 with long tubes here. Stock OEM cooling system using SB radiator and 5 blade fan clutch. No issues whatsoever! Temp never exceeds ~185* even on hot summer day.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:33 PM
  #28  
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I would like to add Dewitts is your best bet. I was close to buying one except there was no varible temp control at the time. I went with a custom setup Dual 13 in. Spals and a Becool rad and a variable temp controller so I can set when the fans come on and turn off. I don't know if he has one now or not, he used to have one but it turned out to be more trouble than it was worth

The second fan, I have rarely used but when I turn that on and have both fans working it will cool the engine in Death Valley. I have a separate switch to turn it on if needed, it is connected directly to the battery through a switch in my ashtray that can handle the current.

I have a mini Autometer light that tells me the the main fan is on and I have another red light that will go on if the temperature goes above 230 degrees.

Like I said Dewitts is the way to go but I spent quite a bit more for the custom setup I have and I am very pleased with it. If you spent the coin I did on the engine you don't want it to overheat.

This is my setup completely customized to what I wanted


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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:56 PM
  #29  
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I find it interesting that you report such success with that setup even though there is such a lack of shrouding. There is visible radiator space that isn't going to have air pulled through it when those fans are on. That must be a real testament to the efficiency of those fans and that radiator.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 03:12 PM
  #30  
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I have used becool radiators, electric fans, 180 stat. temps were right around 185
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I don't know which part you don't buy, but it's really all true. The only reason those pieces of key stock are there is to give you someplace to mount the radiator and in your case they gave you two of them. That's so they can use the same radiator for the 26" and 27.5".
That has nothing to do with the core size in this original statement. That is what I did not buy. I even ask for someone to measure their DeWitt's so I could compare against what MotorHead and I have.

Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
What you really have is a company using the wrong height core to fit the application, so they build it up with 3/8 key stock to make up for the shorter core. While the key might fit better into the cushion they didn't do it for that reason. They did it so they could use one size core for multiple applications and add tabs to correct for height

Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Jan 17, 2014 at 07:59 PM. Reason: bolded namecalling removed
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by gkull
That has nothing to do with the core size in this original statement.
Please someone with an original copper brass radiator measure the total height of the core for Gkull. My GM blueprints are too big to scan.



http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...***-inlet-tank
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by gkull
Why do you continue to change your stories?
I'm not changing anything. I assumed everyone would accept the measurement of a stock radiator being the correct height and our radiator is the same as the stock one.

I'm just trying to explain the reasons why radiator companies do things and you keep trying to pick a fight with strong words like inferior and shady. So, I get it, you hate me and as they say on the shark tank...
"for that reason, i'm out"
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 10:04 AM
  #34  
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I think we tend to over think sometimes with projects. Why not just use your stock setup and see what happens. As long as it's in good shape. If it does not work then make the changes to fix the problem. It's not like you can't fix it afterwards.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 07:08 PM
  #35  
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79ins

I ran a 383 with a stock replacement, 4 row copper rad and duel electric fans. It ran about 185/190 pretty consistently.

I'm running my current 406 with the same cooling system. It's seems to be handling it just fine.

Both engines run AFR 195 heads, cam of moderate duration (comp HR270XR in the stroker, crower 00468 in the 406), and duel plane intakes. Decent torque and power.

If your rad and associated cooling system components are in good shape, you can support a pretty healthy engine.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #36  
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yea...i dont mind being a sheep and going with a dewitts. my thoughts on it are as follows, ive spent a couple grand on the motor might as well spend a grand on insurance that has been proven to work, not a setup that may or may not work well on my setup.

to those that are using a dewitts with electric fans combo, what was the part number of the kit im looking to get one for exact or dam close fitment for ease of install.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by gkull
I have a big aluminum radiator that actually has welded on tabs that actually make it an exact match to our rubber brackets.

If you only bought one brand of aluminum radiator how can you praise it as the best??????????? I have looked at and used several different models on Vettes

If people would complain and not buy inferior junk it would force the vendor to improve his product. I would even pay more for an improved product.
You really have a problem with Dewitts, and maybe you are on track, but I would say you are severely outnumbered, with lots and lots of postings here and otherwise with people who claim to have very good success in all ways with them, in fit, function and quality. You call it sheep, but what it actually is a large number of people who have successfully bought and installed and run
a radiator from Dewitts, at a premium price, and claim they are very happy. Calling a Dewitts radiator JUNK, is really enough for me to completely discredit your opinion, and you obviously have a chip on your shoulder about them. But, maybe you are the expert, and all the rest of idiots, including Dewitts who has built a successful company on Corvette radiators. Whatever dude.

Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Jan 17, 2014 at 08:03 PM. Reason: deleted quoted material removed
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To 383 guys, question on cooling

Old Jan 14, 2014 | 05:50 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by iwasmenowhesgone
You really have a problem with Dewitts, and maybe you are on track, but I would say you are severely outnumbered, with lots and lots of posting with people who claim to have very good success in all ways with them. You call it sheep, but I find it hard to understand why people have successfully bought and installed and run
a radiator from Dewitts, at a premium price, and claim they are very happy. Calling a Dewitts radiator JUNK, is really enough for me to completely discredit your opinion.


(Baaaaaahhh!)
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I'm not changing anything. I assumed everyone would accept the measurement of a stock radiator being the correct height and our radiator is the same as the stock one.
I was supposed to know and trust tom that his radiator is the exact size of a stock radiator. If it was then it could have been made to fit our rubber mounts.

The reason I have a ***** for Tom is I tried to install his radiator once. It did not fit our rubber mount points. So I called and the answer was to get a razor knife and cut my rubber mounts. The second cheezy item was the Spal over priced shroud pieces. What I got in the box was some sheet aluminum bent on a sheet metal brake that I would have to drill and pop rivet to theradiator frame.

Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Jan 17, 2014 at 08:04 PM. Reason: namecalling and language removed
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by gkull
I was supposed to know and trust tom that his radiator is the exact size of a stock radiator. If it was then it could have been made to fit our rubber mounts.

I tried to install his radiator once. It did not fit our rubber mount points. So I called and the answer was to get a razor knife and cut my rubber mounts. The second cheezy item was the Spal over priced shroud pieces. What I got in the box was some sheet aluminum bent on a sheet metal brake that I would have to drill and pop rivet to theradiator frame.
Of the hundreds of VERY happy DeWitt's users on this and other sites, you're the only one who rags on his products that I've seen.

We're all wrong and you must be right?

Didn't know how dumb we were until you pointed it out.


Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Jan 17, 2014 at 08:05 PM. Reason: deleted quoted material removed
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