Shock recommendation for Drag racing
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Sayville New York
Shock recommendation for Drag racing
I have an 81 4sp and a built up 350. I am planning on replacing the shock and was wondering what type you would recommend. I plan on Drag racing the car. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you.
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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QA-1 adjustables on the rear..set real stiff. Much stronger rear spring.....90/10's on the front.
I've got a set of Moroso front springs also that help get things moving.
Works for me.
JIM
I've got a set of Moroso front springs also that help get things moving.
Works for me.
JIM
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 357
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From: Sayville New York
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Jim mentioned heavy rear spring. I would start with a 420# mono spring like from VB&P. Another item is the rear "Smart Struts" The control camber gain during rear suspension compression. Get the metal ends or at least the poly
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 14
From: Milton GA
Koni adjustables in the front. I used to race in Pro class in my 67 Camaro, 9 second quarter mile NA, full weight car.
EDIT: sorry, after looking for a part # for you, the only Koni shock I could find for an 81 @ Jegs was not really a drag shock. I _can_ tell you that the Competition Engineering shock is crap. There is a Lakewood shock that is straight up 90/10 for the 81 (Lakewood 40101) but I can't speak to it's efficacy.
EDIT: sorry, after looking for a part # for you, the only Koni shock I could find for an 81 @ Jegs was not really a drag shock. I _can_ tell you that the Competition Engineering shock is crap. There is a Lakewood shock that is straight up 90/10 for the 81 (Lakewood 40101) but I can't speak to it's efficacy.
Last edited by SpartyGW; Jan 16, 2014 at 10:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Sayville New York
Koni adjustables in the front. I used to race in Pro class in my 67 Camaro, 9 second quarter mile NA, full weight car.
EDIT: sorry, after looking for a part # for you, the only Koni shock I could find for an 81 @ Jegs was not really a drag shock. I _can_ tell you that the Competition Engineering shock is crap. There is a Lakewood shock that is straight up 90/10 for the 81 (Lakewood 40101) but I can't speak to it's efficacy.
EDIT: sorry, after looking for a part # for you, the only Koni shock I could find for an 81 @ Jegs was not really a drag shock. I _can_ tell you that the Competition Engineering shock is crap. There is a Lakewood shock that is straight up 90/10 for the 81 (Lakewood 40101) but I can't speak to it's efficacy.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,524
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From: Medina Ohio
I wouldn't worry about a drag racing set-up then. Go to the track, and hit the gas.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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If you do the Mono spring... shocks will be critical. I had a custom made 460 LB one on mine and it was a bouncing fool. Never knew what lane it was going to come down in! They nicknamed me Flipper for a while as it porpoised around.
Seriously, I do know some drag folks that had good luck with the glass springs...they just had better shocks than I had at the time. Probably could have made it work, but I switched to a custom made 6 leaf from Vette Brakes (Daytona 5 leaf with an added main leaf) and the QA-1's and it was instant straight line after that. Heavy....but works perfectly.
I've heard folks say Moroso springs go weak...but mine are still fine. Santhruff seems to be the rage these days. Also...I have Competition Engineering 90/10's and they've done fine....but as the car has become faster they are probably due for an upgrade with a little more control.
As mentioned, a Smart Strut kit will keep the camber change correct.
But as mentioned..at the 13 second level you won't need much. Vette's hook like crazy with the right tire. A set of 90/10's on the front will make a big difference in how it launches if you have initial issues.
JIM
Seriously, I do know some drag folks that had good luck with the glass springs...they just had better shocks than I had at the time. Probably could have made it work, but I switched to a custom made 6 leaf from Vette Brakes (Daytona 5 leaf with an added main leaf) and the QA-1's and it was instant straight line after that. Heavy....but works perfectly.
I've heard folks say Moroso springs go weak...but mine are still fine. Santhruff seems to be the rage these days. Also...I have Competition Engineering 90/10's and they've done fine....but as the car has become faster they are probably due for an upgrade with a little more control.
As mentioned, a Smart Strut kit will keep the camber change correct.
But as mentioned..at the 13 second level you won't need much. Vette's hook like crazy with the right tire. A set of 90/10's on the front will make a big difference in how it launches if you have initial issues.
JIM
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Milton GA
Have fun, bro, the track is a great place to really enjoy your car.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,462
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From: Reno nevada
All that works together and my vette launches straight. My only draw back is 3.55 rear gears. with drag radials and a small burn out i have slip the clutch out of the hole. It is pretty close to dumping the clutch.
At the lights I bring the rpm to right on 2500 rpm. At our local drag strip I get 12.90's. I like the Fast Friday night test and tunes over the higher pressure long lines at NHRA bracket racing
Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Us little 400 or so HP 355 ci 4 speed Vettes don't have all the problems that high HP big ci motored have. The 420# rear mono and the Koni adjustable set on stiff. You adjust the rear spring bolts to get a level car. I even have the 9/16th rear sway and Smart Stuts. I don't have 90/10 or front skinny tires.
All that works together and my vette launches straight. My only draw back is 3.55 rear gears. with drag radials and a small burn out i have slip the clutch out of the hole. It is pretty close to dumping the clutch.
At the lights I bring the rpm to right on 2500 rpm. At our local drag strip I get 12.90's. I like the Fast Friday night test and tunes over the higher pressure long lines at NHRA bracket racing
All that works together and my vette launches straight. My only draw back is 3.55 rear gears. with drag radials and a small burn out i have slip the clutch out of the hole. It is pretty close to dumping the clutch.
At the lights I bring the rpm to right on 2500 rpm. At our local drag strip I get 12.90's. I like the Fast Friday night test and tunes over the higher pressure long lines at NHRA bracket racing
When I stuck the 90/10's on it the first time I was able to come out harder and slip the clutch a little more as I rode the fine line between bogging and spinning. When I had pure street tires on it the 70/30 setting worked real well.
Here's a shot on plain BFG street tires..suckers are actually wrinkling!
Here's what traction does...
JIM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
I think I have a brand new set of 90/10's around my shop somewhere, any one want them $100 for the pair I think they are 3 way adjustable 70/30, 80/20 and 90/10 clicks on them as I recall.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 787
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
If you're running 13s, as opposed to 9s and 10s, you don't need much suspension work. I've been thru the 13s and down to low 12s now with old stock front shocks, sway bar in place, stock replacement 9 leaf rear spring, new 50/50 rear shocks and 275/60/15 drag radials, BFGs. My best 60ft is 1.69 with consistent 1.73 - 1.75 times, with no wheelspin and plenty of weight transfer. (Auto trans.) See below.
