Headlight Assembly removal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 7
From: Wentzville MO
Headlight Assembly removal
Getting my 78 ready for paint to a different color. Is there a step by step procedure for removal of the headlight assembly? Search didn't turn up any posts on this procedure. My AIM isn't real clear on this.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
OH NO.... Heaven forbid you do something different than the factory! 
Remember, they wanted the car to last just a few years, and tried to do most things as quick and easy as possible to save money. Why would you want to do a better job than the factory?
But wait - the OP asked how -not if he should.
I took my bumper cover and hood off first, and it was much easier than when I left the bumper on the first time.
Remember, they wanted the car to last just a few years, and tried to do most things as quick and easy as possible to save money. Why would you want to do a better job than the factory?
But wait - the OP asked how -not if he should.
I took my bumper cover and hood off first, and it was much easier than when I left the bumper on the first time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Removing the Headlight assembly is risky business. The headlight support bracket is made of a fragile pot metal. The mounting bolts are very likely corroded and seized to the assembly mounting bracket. If you just torque them out without being super careful about using penetrating oil and adequately supporting the bracket, you will snap the bracket ears. Even if your careful, it is risky and IMHO not worth it. $200 bucks for a new bracket is not chump change. Reassembly without scratching the new paint is no picnic either.
I agree with Easy Mike. ( Imagine that) Leave them in. 
I agree with Easy Mike. ( Imagine that)
Leave them in.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 119
From: Springfield Missouri
removed mine from underneath. The front bumper and all the valance was off. Car was in for a paint job. The front bumper was on when I installed them back on. Put tape around all edges to protect them.
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,705
Likes: 983
From: Orlando FL
Having the hood off helped a little also.
If it`s been on the car for a long time, I`d probably soak the mounting bolts with PB Blaster for a while before I tried to break them loose though.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I am trying to remember how I did mine. I know that I took everything out when the radiator was out and the hood was off. I cleaned repainted and rebuilt them before re-installing them. I think I installed the brackets first and then came back and put the head light doors on. The doors are held in place by two bearings on each end of the brackets. There are three bolts that hold each bearing to the bracket. Unless you are going to rebuild the whole assembly I am pretty sure you can just remove the headlight doors by removing one side (bearing). Bolts are accessible from the outside of the brackets and its a bit tight.
You do have to disconnect the actuator rod as well.
You do have to disconnect the actuator rod as well.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
Its like 5 bolts and a vacuum hose. On a chrome bumper car it may be a little tighter - not sure. Mine was not hard just a little time consuming, but again, without the hood and front bumper -- easy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
I need to replace the bearing assemblys on either end of the mechanism. Can I do that without pulling the whole headlight? Thanks for the quick responses guys. The hood and radiator are all in place. I'm driving the car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
That is going to be tight. I did mine on the bench. You may be able to get from the top with the hood open, or from bottom with grill removed. Maybe someone will chime in.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,755
Likes: 721
From: Lafayette Louisiana
2 thoughts for you
2 thoughts for you that might help:
1. The support bracket is better than pot metal. My support bracket was cracked and the professional welder was able to weld it up just like good aluminum.
The bezel cover which was metal (on my 72, anyway, I know some are plastic) was also cracked, but could not be welded so it is likely pot metal.
2. If you check out the Glass Ra series of CD's, Ecklers is one that has them, there is a extensive tutorial on headlight assemblies which is great. Problem is, it is a little pricey, but worth it I think.
Hope this might help.
1. The support bracket is better than pot metal. My support bracket was cracked and the professional welder was able to weld it up just like good aluminum.
The bezel cover which was metal (on my 72, anyway, I know some are plastic) was also cracked, but could not be welded so it is likely pot metal.
2. If you check out the Glass Ra series of CD's, Ecklers is one that has them, there is a extensive tutorial on headlight assemblies which is great. Problem is, it is a little pricey, but worth it I think.
Hope this might help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
If you don't need to repair something on the lights, leave them in. Painting the headlights off the car will likely result in mismatched finish (especially if it is metallic paint) between the body and the headlights.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I rebuilt mine off the car and painted them on the car for that very reason. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I am going to say yes, you have to be able to reach the bolts (3) on the sides of the brackets to adjust them to fit the headlight doors flush with the surround (nose).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
I rebuilt the assemblies with new pivot bearings, all stainless springs and hardware, and completely replaced the headlight adjusters before converting to electric (that and a Vintage Air mean no more vacuum - except power brakes).
I pulled them out of my 77 and reinstalled them in one piece, after removing the hood, the AC condenser, the vacuum relays in the center and the support rod from the bottom of the core support that supports the front hood surround. (Also remove the headlight stop that controls the height the headlight pops up - the long flat piece bolted to the outside left of the left light and outside right of passengers)
You can do most of the work from the top (after removing the headlight buckets). For final adjustments to get the doors flush with the body (lead edge should be approx. 1/32 depressed to elim wind noise and rain penetration) you will need to be under the car, reaching up to adjust/tighten the 3 bolts retaining the pivot and you will need feedback from someone up on top.
I pulled them out of my 77 and reinstalled them in one piece, after removing the hood, the AC condenser, the vacuum relays in the center and the support rod from the bottom of the core support that supports the front hood surround. (Also remove the headlight stop that controls the height the headlight pops up - the long flat piece bolted to the outside left of the left light and outside right of passengers)
You can do most of the work from the top (after removing the headlight buckets). For final adjustments to get the doors flush with the body (lead edge should be approx. 1/32 depressed to elim wind noise and rain penetration) you will need to be under the car, reaching up to adjust/tighten the 3 bolts retaining the pivot and you will need feedback from someone up on top.
