Track my C3? Or not?
The thing is, I see people talking about how bad the c3's "body flex" is, and what is needed to fix the problem. Honestly, had me worried. Let alone half the stuff I don't understand quite yet. The car is getting a roll cage due to my local drag strip's rules.
So one of my questions is, what path should I take? A streetable non-competitive road racing car? Or a streetable drag car?
Looking for some advice from anyone with experience. Not entirely sure what all needs done, let alone if my C3 is even capable of handling well without major changes to frame, or swapping for new suspension setup's. Appreciate any advice or help guys. Thanks!
Blake





The Vette IRS stock and drag racing don't go together unless you install thousands of dollars in parts
Road racing. Big difference between competition SCCA, non competition SCCA, and High Performance driving experience.
I spent a lot of money on my vette to have the best cheater car. Big wilwood brakes, coil overs, 5 speed, 7500 rpm 434 ci small block solid roller cam. I even have a spare engine so I would not miss a points race during the season. I won the SCCA vintage production VP3 class in 2007 and then kind of gave up racing my Vette.
I like faster open wheel winged road race cars that were purpose built.
You didn't say what tranny and motor you have?
To help answer some of the posts. I am running a built TH350. Yes, I know a manual is the way to go, I "might" put a manual in it. As I said, I'm just trying to go a direction.Well my vote would be a non-competitive road racing car. I think you can have more fun driving around to events (car shows, swap meets, cruise nights, etc.) instead of only with a streetable drag car.
But it also helps if your car is capable of good handling and good power.
It won't be cheap to build, but a resto-mod or pro touring car should make things pretty fun overall and you still get to drive it on public roads with fun curves.
I live an hour from the Rocky Mountains.
JMHO.



. I guess I just want to know whether I can do some "decent" upgrades. Like some vb&P suspension, or sharkbite stuff. Just looked at those sites awhile back which gave me the idea maybe it was possible to have a great handling car. I understand I'll be spending a lot. I guess a budget for me would be around $7-8,000 for just suspension.
Appreciate your opinion! Thanks
Just build it to be safe with the speed you're comfortable with, and have fun!
, if I can get it to handle better than my 2000 Camaro SS, I'd be happy. I thought it'd be cool to modernize the C3. I do plan on putting a roll cage in it, as well as suspension and brake goodies. Just looking for a good time, so long as it puts a smile on my face.
Then worked with different brake pads. here is the post that discussed the C3 brakes.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...8-results.html
Next are better tires / rims (17" or 18") so the brakes will work much better. After the tires will be the transmission / Rear ratio's that work best on the track I have access to, and lastly will be the engine. My car is a auto and thinking on changing to a Richmond 5 speed road race unit.
http://www.richmondgear.com/index.ph...peed-road-race
But I my stick with the th350 with manual shift upgrades.
The engine will be a ZZ5 GM Crate motor with EFI.
My C3 vs C6 picture.
If you want to win road race track events then purchase a C6 Z06 or wait for the 2015 Z06, but either way corvette's are fun to drive on any track. For me road track driving beats drag racing anytime. I also visit SpringMountain twice a year to enjoy the lastest in corvette technology.
Spring Mountain 2014 C7 Z51 session
. Considering I'm a newbie and all. My car is an Auto as well. Haven't decided if I want a manual or not. Kinda want a cruise car that I can just drive and if I want to push the limits I can without killing myself. lol
I plan on flaring the car with some L88 flares, not only for bigger tires but for appearance reasons as well. Looks aggressive to me. But any more tips man would be much appreciated!
Go hang out at a road course near you, talk to the guys. With your helmet with you ask to get rides with them. Learn as much as you can and what people do there. You will get an idea of what to do.
Best if you can get a HPDE driving school in to be shown the ropes. Otherwise there are usually instructor level people at a track that would help you.
Do those things before doing anything to your car and after learning what you need and how far you want to go direct the money there.
You might build a nice street car and have it on the track a few times per year and have the greatest time of all. Put the mod money into seat time on the track
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
. Considering I'm a newbie and all. My car is an Auto as well. Haven't decided if I want a manual or not. Kinda want a cruise car that I can just drive and if I want to push the limits I can without killing myself. lol
I plan on flaring the car with some L88 flares, not only for bigger tires but for appearance reasons as well. Looks aggressive to me. But any more tips man would be much appreciated!
Well, where is your location and where is the closest track? Maybe someone on here knows the folks that go there and can help you out?
These sites can help locate what is near you and anyone else.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_auto_racing_tracks_in_the_United_States
http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Main_Page
Don't forget to check youtube for views of rides around your track of choice. See how it is done.
Last edited by minitech; Jan 29, 2014 at 10:01 PM.
Just build it to be safe with the speed you're comfortable with, and have fun!

Great fun and you don't have to go crazy with the modifications. Spend and modify what you are comfortable with. You can always set it up for road race tracks and still bracket race too.
I've run 12.8 @ 108 mph in the 1/4 mile using same setup as I use for road courses, even including good DOT performance tires. Nothing blindingly fast, but not too shabby.
Having done bracket racing and HPDE's (open track events), I prefer road courses. You get to spend about 2 hours on the track in a day versus a few minutes. Drag racing is still fun for me, but I tend to do more track days lately.
As far as the frame stiffness go, I've done three things: (1) bolt-in support between front a-arms, (2) welded some extra stiffeners down the side frame rails, and (3) 4 point roll bar.





Also, I'd suggest adjusting your perspective to that of building a trackable street car rather than the other way around. That way your learning curve and development of your car are more likley to progress at the same pace.
JMHO

TSW





Great fun and you don't have to go crazy with the modifications. Spend and modify what you are comfortable with. You can always set it up for road race tracks and still bracket race too.
I've run 12.8 @ 108 mph in the 1/4 mile using same setup as I use for road courses, even including good DOT performance tires. Nothing blindingly fast, but not too shabby.
Having done bracket racing and HPDE's (open track events), I prefer road courses. You get to spend about 2 hours on the track in a day versus a few minutes. Drag racing is still fun for me, but I tend to do more track days lately.
As far as the frame stiffness go, I've done three things: (1) bolt-in support between front a-arms, (2) welded some extra stiffeners down the side frame rails, and (3) 4 point roll bar.

).
. However, since that is my home track I joined the "Club" so I mainly run out at Putnam when they are not doing HPDE's (i.e. private sessions). It has it bonuses like almost unlimited track time and not hardly any traffic to deal with. However, I do miss running in groups ever once and a while with a bit more traffic, which can be fun also.You intending on going to the NCM's track in the future? This year is a bit tight on cash because we are trying to find a new house with a bigger garage, but I might sign up for some HPDE's next year at NCM, Road America, or Gingerman. Haven't decided yet. Gingerman has been bad luck for me (break down ever time I go there
) so I'll need to find a trailer if I go there ... I'm getting superstitious.How did you do at Putnam? There are so few C3's that run out there it is hard for me to make a decent comparison. I'm running 1:27's currently. The grey GrandSport in the first video, which was taking it quite easy that lap, usually runs about 1:22's I believe.
Prior to racing seat and roll bar ........................................ ....... Post seat and roll bar mod (dropped 2-3 seconds)
Last edited by Jason Staley; Jan 30, 2014 at 07:53 AM.
These sites can help locate what is near you and anyone else.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_auto_racing_tracks_in_the_United_States
http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Main_Page
Don't forget to check youtube for views of rides around your track of choice. See how it is done.
The track I want to go to is in Wampum PA, called Pittsburgh National Race Complex. I never been there before so any reviews from anyone here would be nice. Ot's the only one I know of that is closest to me. I live near Pittsburgh. The track is about 55 miles away from me. So it's a little far, but would be nice to go once or twice a year.
The Vette IRS stock and drag racing don't go together unless you install thousands of dollars in parts
Road racing. Big difference between competition SCCA, non competition SCCA, and High Performance driving experience.
I spent a lot of money on my vette to have the best cheater car. Big wilwood brakes, coil overs, 5 speed, 7500 rpm 434 ci small block solid roller cam. I even have a spare engine so I would not miss a points race during the season. I won the SCCA vintage production VP3 class in 2007 and then kind of gave up racing my Vette.
I like faster open wheel winged road race cars that were purpose built.
You didn't say what tranny and motor you have?
Anyway, I'm running a 383ci N/A with around 460hp at the crank with a TH350 with a 10" Torque Converter 2900-3300 Stall.





Anyway, I'm running a 383ci N/A with around 460hp at the crank with a TH350 with a 10" Torque Converter 2900-3300 Stall.
That will be a fun starting point. My advice is to not take little baby steps on improvements. It costs more in the long run.
If you are going drag racing just buy two cheap 10X15 rims and a set of slicks. It is very easy to install a line lock to the brake master cylinder. I removed my passenger seat and I would throw my slicks and a floor jack in and I would drive to the drag strip. I bought a practice tree and really worked on getting near perfect lights.
Don't go to events and try and learn. Get on line and find out when they have test and tunes or like here they have open track Fridays. I get there right when it opens because all the street racers show up later. Last year I did 10 runs basically right in a row. I went down the track and drove back around and right back up to the line.
I had the TCI roll control line lock. roll through so the rear tires were just past the water dip. You stomp on the brake and push the line lock. Then you let off the foot brake so your front tires are locked. I would put the shifter in second and bring the speedometer up to 90 mph and count to 3. About 3 seconds and let off the line lock so with the rear tires smoking the car would roll forward. I would let off the gas and go up and pre-stage.
Once you have done it 100 times it gets easy and it is just another sunday drive. The big thing is being able to change and adjust your dial in time with changing conditions to be within a few 1/100th of second from the car can really do. so you are always running hard to the end and only jumping on the brakes if you are out front. So you win with reaction time and being right on your dial in time without breaking out.
Last edited by gkull; Jan 31, 2014 at 09:43 AM.
Interesting that there is no mention of a LS swap in the article. Not sure where the LS swap information came from? Article indicates a modified 355 - LT1.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/fe...ette_stingray/
Love the huge tires and wheels on this car!

If you are going drag racing just buy two cheap 10X15 rims and a set of slicks. It is very easy to install a line lock to the brake master cylinder. I removed my passenger seat and I would throw my slicks and a floor jack in and I would drive to the drag strip. I bought a practice tree and really worked on getting near perfect lights.
Don't go to events and try and learn. Get on line and find out when they have test and tunes or like here they have open track Fridays. I get there right when it opens because all the street racers show up later. Last year I did 10 runs basically right in a row. I went down the track and drove back around and right back up to the line.
I had the TCI roll control line lock. roll through so the rear tires were just past the water dip. You stomp on the brake and push the line lock. Then you let off the foot brake so your front tires are locked. I would put the shifter in second and bring the speedometer up to 90 mph and count to 3. About 3 seconds and let off the line lock so with the rear tires smoking the car would roll forward. I would let off the gas and go up and pre-stage.
Once you have done it 100 times it gets easy and it is just another sunday drive. The big thing is being able to change and adjust your dial in time with changing conditions to be within a few 1/100th of second from the car can really do. so you are always running hard to the end and only jumping on the brakes if you are out front. So you win with reaction time and being right on your dial in time without breaking out.
. Was going to go at a test and tune day with my 2000 camaro ss. But was afraid to do terrible lol. I'll have to practice on a tree, sounds like a great idea. Hopefully eventually I get a line lock sometime in the future. Really appreciate the advice. Thanks! I'll be sure to try to get to my track early.












