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I was looking for insulation to install on the floors and tranny tunnel...seen some at Home Depot, its 1/8'' x 12"x12' , foil covered, peel and stick for $18.00. It is for residential duct work. Has anyone used this or a similar product?
It looks and feels similar to Dynamat, I just wondered if it would break down under constant foot traffic? Would the thin height cause any issues for carpet fitment? I know the original carpet pad was pretty thick.
I used that exact stuff a few years ago, and just recently started a frame off and took the carpet out. It was well stuck to the floor and showed no wear.
My cockpit still got warm, so the next go around I am going to buy a premium solution, so your mileage may vary.
How "cleanly" did the removal go? I hate to use something that can't be removed without a lot of labor.
Do you think something like Dynamat is better? I think the R-rating was like 4, which is pretty high for 1/8". I've seen some of these cars insulated pretty aggressive and still owners complain about heat.
I'm not sure if I know exactly what you are referring to (from Home Depot). I have seen stuff from HD called 'Reflectix' which is similar to what you are talking about except it is 1/4" thick and NOT adhesive backed. This stuff would probably do pretty well as a thermal insulator - you would need to apply spray adhesive though. I actually bought some but decided to go another way because it seemed sort of 'light', and like you say I don't know how well it would hold up in a car.
You also have to understand the difference between sound deadeners (like Dynamat, Hushmat, B-Quiet, etc...) and thermal insulators (Reflectix, Dynaliner, jute, carpet padding, etc...). You probably want a combination of both to some degree.
This is what I did after a bunch of research and it turned out pretty well. I used DynaMat over about 30% of the large areas, then used 1/4" DynaLiner over that to about 70% of the areas. Dynamat is a heavy sticky thin sound deadener. Dynaliner is adhesive backed foam padding. Both are good products and there are a lot of competitors and they are expensive. That was my limiting factor, or I would have maybe used more. I have a post somewhere with pics and I need to post some more maybe today...
How "cleanly" did the removal go? I hate to use something that can't be removed without a lot of labor.
Kevin
I'll know in a few months when I start at the body. Right now doing the chassis. If you can wait I'll be heading to the storage locker with the body on Friday and would be glad to take pictures and share.
Thanks for the info, I just didn't want to use something that would be a nightmare for me or future owner to remove. The product I am looking at is pretty sticky, I think it may be like those stick on wall hooks, virtually impossible to get off.
I think I will buy some and do a test sample, leave it on a few days and try to remove it.
My 2 cents, Reflectix will work just fine, I did not glue mine.
But, I think that is only part of the solution to get rid of heat in the cockpit.
Do search here and do all of the solutions for reducing heat. These are some:
*put in a shutoff valve on the heater core hose
*tunnel insulation and bell housing foam
*outside vent seal (behind the passenger kick panel)
*air leaks in the firewall
*and likely more that I can not think of right now.....
I used DynaMat and then the DynaLiner over it. I also used thermal tec Transmission and Tunnel shield II on the underside. The car is not yet completely together and not driving but I did the engine brake in and the areas around the trans tunnel and foot wells that would in the past quickly heat up now showed no sign of heat after 30 min brake in at 2000 rpm. Only place that I could feel heat was in the battery box area because I have not yet insulated that area.
I did a test with the reflective and a few other different insulators and the reflective in my test with a heat gun and thermometer did poorly compared to other products.