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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Trying to pick out some oil to buy this week to break'in my new short block.

454, .040 over, small Hydraulic Roller, Lunati cam, .510/.510 lift, duration is 235/235/ at.050, 112LSA, with Moly rings. 7qt oil pan Wix filters for a total of 8qts....... Seat pressure 130 maybe 140 lb.

My initial thought for breaki'n is a 5w-30 oil; like Chevron, Havoline, Citgo, Mobil with a bottle of GM EOS. Option #2 Shell Rotella 10W-30, for 2 heat cycles with the oil being changed after the first heat cycle and the second heat cycle, put the motor in the car with Shell Rotella 10w-30, and enjoy it this summer.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, this is the first roller cam I'm fool'in with

Wow such a run sentence I created.

Thanks
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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Roller cam isn't nearly as critical to break in as a flat tappet. I use dino for a hundred or so miles, then switch to synthetic. I'd do the break-in in the car, unless you're doing it on a dyno, and you can put a load on the motor. BTW, any post with oil in the title is going to draw in a ton of dicks. This should be fun.

Last edited by SH-60B; Feb 12, 2014 at 04:57 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Default Brace yourself for a flood

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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
Roller cam isn't nearly as critical to break in as a flat tappet. I use dino for a hundred or so miles, then switch to synthetic. I'd do the break-in in the car, unless you're doing it on a dyno, and you can put a load on the motor. BTW, any post with oil in the title is going to draw in a ton of dicks. This should be fun.
Thankyou sir, I was trying to come up with a title other than just oil. I guess I should have added that I have a "test engine stand" and I have a heavy flywheel to hang on the back which makes it easy to do the heat cycles, check for leaks, and problems before installing the motor.


I agree, I'm not interested in a debate over which oil is better, just looking for some info. Due to this being my first roller Hydraulic setup.

Last edited by anderson3754; Feb 12, 2014 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1974CorvetteJimCr
Oh gosh..... I'm actually a new guy, and not interest in starting an oil thread. My eyes bleed when I read them, just want to know if I understand the HR Cam break'in procedure
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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A roller cam doesn't need a break in, sorry I wasn't clear. You just want to seat the rings.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:37 PM
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You might want to read this thread and the article from March 2014 Vette Magazine:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ch-2014-a.html
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
A roller cam doesn't need a break in, sorry I wasn't clear. You just want to seat the rings.
Thanks........ so if I just wipe the cylinder walls down with ATF to help seat the rings, go through my 2 heat cycles with any good 5w-30 and EOS, check for leaks and problems, put it in the car, 4 -5 mi of walikng it up and down the rpm rage 2000-5000 rpm with 10w-30 and I should be good to go correct?

(I just create another run on sentence)
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
You might want to read this thread and the article from March 2014 Vette Magazine:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ch-2014-a.html

Thanks I'm trying to read it now, you are right, it is hard to see to read.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 05:51 PM
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For a roller cam motor I would just get the cheapest 5w30 name brand regular oil to break the engine in.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Marlin
For a roller cam motor I would just get the cheapest 5w30 name brand regular oil to break the engine in.
Yes that's what I'm thinking / was thinking...... a good 5w-30 maybe the EOS, two heat cycles changing the oil after each heat cycle and put it in the car with a good 10w-30 and enjoy the ride.

The reason I'm asking so many Questions is I also what to do the same this early summer to my other car with the 427 in it. Pull the flat tappet cam out and put a small hydraulic roller in that also.

Great thanks
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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Drive it like you stole it , do not baby it , load that motor get it in top gear as slow as you can and make it pull it self up till you hit 5k .. do that several times if you have some good hills do it on them.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by diehrd
Drive it like you stole it , do not baby it , load that motor get it in top gear as slow as you can and make it pull it self up till you hit 5k .. do that several times if you have some good hills do it on them.
YES Yes we have some long grades around here. I start out in 1st run it up to 3500-4000 rpm then just take my foot of the gas till it pulls down to about 1500 rpm. Then do 2nd, then do 3rd, then do 4th all the same as first gear.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by anderson3754
Thanks I'm trying to read it now, you are right, it is hard to see to read.
Try this version:

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/1403_al...c/viewall.html
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Thanks.......... this one I can read. I had to give up on that other version even with my reading glasses I could not stay focused. Yours is easy to read, I've never seen this article.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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Seems to be some misconception about breakin for roller cams!
From the article in the March 2014 issue of Vette magazine concerning breakin:

Flat-tappet-engine builders are typically conscientious about using a proper, high-ZDDP break-in oil like Brad Penn Grade 1 30-weight to protect internal components. However, some roller-motor owners mistakenly believe that their engines don’t need break-in oil. In reality, without a purpose-specific lubricant like Driven BR Break-In Oil, those roller mills will suffer the same particulate contamination—and potential bearing failures—that a flat-tappet engine would.

Read more: http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/1403_al...#ixzz2tAEKiWMA
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by anderson3754
YES Yes we have some long grades around here. I start out in 1st run it up to 3500-4000 rpm then just take my foot of the gas till it pulls down to about 1500 rpm. Then do 2nd, then do 3rd, then do 4th all the same as first gear.
You want to engine brake a lot. I do it instead of braking as much as possible for the first 100 miles or so. Don't baby it but don't redline it. Change the oil, then have fun.
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