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Trying to pick out some oil to buy this week to break'in my new short block.
454, .040 over, small Hydraulic Roller, Lunati cam, .510/.510 lift, duration is 235/235/ at.050, 112LSA, with Moly rings. 7qt oil pan Wix filters for a total of 8qts....... Seat pressure 130 maybe 140 lb.
My initial thought for breaki'n is a 5w-30 oil; like Chevron, Havoline, Citgo, Mobil with a bottle of GM EOS. Option #2 Shell Rotella 10W-30, for 2 heat cycles with the oil being changed after the first heat cycle and the second heat cycle, put the motor in the car with Shell Rotella 10w-30, and enjoy it this summer.
Any input would be greatly appreciated, this is the first roller cam I'm fool'in with
Roller cam isn't nearly as critical to break in as a flat tappet. I use dino for a hundred or so miles, then switch to synthetic. I'd do the break-in in the car, unless you're doing it on a dyno, and you can put a load on the motor. BTW, any post with oil in the title is going to draw in a ton of dicks. This should be fun.
Roller cam isn't nearly as critical to break in as a flat tappet. I use dino for a hundred or so miles, then switch to synthetic. I'd do the break-in in the car, unless you're doing it on a dyno, and you can put a load on the motor. BTW, any post with oil in the title is going to draw in a ton of dicks. This should be fun.
Thankyou sir, I was trying to come up with a title other than just oil. I guess I should have added that I have a "test engine stand" and I have a heavy flywheel to hang on the back which makes it easy to do the heat cycles, check for leaks, and problems before installing the motor.
I agree, I'm not interested in a debate over which oil is better, just looking for some info. Due to this being my first roller Hydraulic setup.
Last edited by anderson3754; Feb 12, 2014 at 05:16 PM.
Oh gosh..... I'm actually a new guy, and not interest in starting an oil thread. My eyes bleed when I read them, just want to know if I understand the HR Cam break'in procedure
A roller cam doesn't need a break in, sorry I wasn't clear. You just want to seat the rings.
Thanks........ so if I just wipe the cylinder walls down with ATF to help seat the rings, go through my 2 heat cycles with any good 5w-30 and EOS, check for leaks and problems, put it in the car, 4 -5 mi of walikng it up and down the rpm rage 2000-5000 rpm with 10w-30 and I should be good to go correct?
For a roller cam motor I would just get the cheapest 5w30 name brand regular oil to break the engine in.
Yes that's what I'm thinking / was thinking...... a good 5w-30 maybe the EOS, two heat cycles changing the oil after each heat cycle and put it in the car with a good 10w-30 and enjoy the ride.
The reason I'm asking so many Questions is I also what to do the same this early summer to my other car with the 427 in it. Pull the flat tappet cam out and put a small hydraulic roller in that also.
Drive it like you stole it , do not baby it , load that motor get it in top gear as slow as you can and make it pull it self up till you hit 5k .. do that several times if you have some good hills do it on them.
Drive it like you stole it , do not baby it , load that motor get it in top gear as slow as you can and make it pull it self up till you hit 5k .. do that several times if you have some good hills do it on them.
YES Yes we have some long grades around here. I start out in 1st run it up to 3500-4000 rpm then just take my foot of the gas till it pulls down to about 1500 rpm. Then do 2nd, then do 3rd, then do 4th all the same as first gear.
Thanks.......... this one I can read. I had to give up on that other version even with my reading glasses I could not stay focused. Yours is easy to read, I've never seen this article.
Seems to be some misconception about breakin for roller cams!
From the article in the March 2014 issue of Vette magazine concerning breakin:
Flat-tappet-engine builders are typically conscientious about using a proper, high-ZDDP break-in oil like Brad Penn Grade 1 30-weight to protect internal components. However, some roller-motor owners mistakenly believe that their engines don’t need break-in oil. In reality, without a purpose-specific lubricant like Driven BR Break-In Oil, those roller mills will suffer the same particulate contamination—and potential bearing failures—that a flat-tappet engine would.
YES Yes we have some long grades around here. I start out in 1st run it up to 3500-4000 rpm then just take my foot of the gas till it pulls down to about 1500 rpm. Then do 2nd, then do 3rd, then do 4th all the same as first gear.
You want to engine brake a lot. I do it instead of braking as much as possible for the first 100 miles or so. Don't baby it but don't redline it. Change the oil, then have fun.