ProComp rockers any good ???
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Virginia
ProComp rockers any good ???
Hey guys,
here's why I ask the question, and yes I know I should have asked first.
I just got a set of self aligning roller tip rockers (1.6) for my aluminum headed 383, put the drivers side bank on and did the 'ol tighten them down until there is resistance on the pushrods deal, then started up the engine, it ran for maybe 1 minute when the bottom "bowl" shattered out of one of my new rockers. I didn't even have time to adjust them the way they needed to be.
I used the new pivot ***** and nuts on them, poured some motor oil down in the bowls before starting it up. I also checked the geometry to make sure the rollers were still centered on the valve tips, all good there.
now I don't know rather I just got a bad rocker or not to trust any of them. I'm going to have to go fishing to get all the metal fragments out of the lifter valley as it is.
anybody else use these thing and have any issues. I got them from Summit and I'm sure they will stand behind them but I'm wondering if I should just pull them off and send the whole bunch back for refund.
what say you all???
here's why I ask the question, and yes I know I should have asked first.
I just got a set of self aligning roller tip rockers (1.6) for my aluminum headed 383, put the drivers side bank on and did the 'ol tighten them down until there is resistance on the pushrods deal, then started up the engine, it ran for maybe 1 minute when the bottom "bowl" shattered out of one of my new rockers. I didn't even have time to adjust them the way they needed to be.
I used the new pivot ***** and nuts on them, poured some motor oil down in the bowls before starting it up. I also checked the geometry to make sure the rollers were still centered on the valve tips, all good there.
now I don't know rather I just got a bad rocker or not to trust any of them. I'm going to have to go fishing to get all the metal fragments out of the lifter valley as it is.
anybody else use these thing and have any issues. I got them from Summit and I'm sure they will stand behind them but I'm wondering if I should just pull them off and send the whole bunch back for refund.
what say you all???
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
Likes: 299
From: New York
Could be they are junk lots of issues with Pro comp parts.. It could also be you had way to much lash and when you started it up and or had something wrong on the install.
Why did you not set zero lash plus 1/2 turn on each cylinder instead of starting it up ?
Why did you not set zero lash plus 1/2 turn on each cylinder instead of starting it up ?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Crane 
Never tried PC. had a set of Proform full bodied rocker arms around 99-2000 needle bearings were mush within a few hundred miles. Maybe they have gotten better
learned the hard way not to skimp on valvetrain stuff.
Nothing wrong with a roller tip on a mild cam at all ran em for years.
Never tried PC. had a set of Proform full bodied rocker arms around 99-2000 needle bearings were mush within a few hundred miles. Maybe they have gotten better
learned the hard way not to skimp on valvetrain stuff.
Nothing wrong with a roller tip on a mild cam at all ran em for years.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Hey guys,
here's why I ask the question, and yes I know I should have asked first.
I just got a set of self aligning roller tip rockers (1.6) for my aluminum headed 383, put the drivers side bank on and did the 'ol tighten them down until there is resistance on the pushrods deal, then started up the engine, it ran for maybe 1 minute when the bottom "bowl" shattered out of one of my new rockers. I didn't even have time to adjust them the way they needed to be.
I used the new pivot ***** and nuts on them, poured some motor oil down in the bowls before starting it up. I also checked the geometry to make sure the rollers were still centered on the valve tips, all good there.
now I don't know rather I just got a bad rocker or not to trust any of them. I'm going to have to go fishing to get all the metal fragments out of the lifter valley as it is.
anybody else use these thing and have any issues. I got them from Summit and I'm sure they will stand behind them but I'm wondering if I should just pull them off and send the whole bunch back for refund.
what say you all???
here's why I ask the question, and yes I know I should have asked first.
I just got a set of self aligning roller tip rockers (1.6) for my aluminum headed 383, put the drivers side bank on and did the 'ol tighten them down until there is resistance on the pushrods deal, then started up the engine, it ran for maybe 1 minute when the bottom "bowl" shattered out of one of my new rockers. I didn't even have time to adjust them the way they needed to be.
I used the new pivot ***** and nuts on them, poured some motor oil down in the bowls before starting it up. I also checked the geometry to make sure the rollers were still centered on the valve tips, all good there.
now I don't know rather I just got a bad rocker or not to trust any of them. I'm going to have to go fishing to get all the metal fragments out of the lifter valley as it is.
anybody else use these thing and have any issues. I got them from Summit and I'm sure they will stand behind them but I'm wondering if I should just pull them off and send the whole bunch back for refund.
what say you all???
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Virginia
sorry I didn't go into more detail earlier so I'll do it now.
I installed the rockers with the lifters on the base of the cam NOT the lobes, I did it by spinning the pushrods between my fingers and tightening them up till I felt the resistance change, then went a tad more---then moved to the next cylinder by bumping the motor over till the lifters were on the base of the cam and used the same procedure, and so on.
i don't think I could have caused the issue because there was no free-play in the valve train when I cranked up the motor, but I guess anything is possible.
I've done rockers before and never had any issue like this, I was just wondering about the quality of the parts. live and learn
I installed the rockers with the lifters on the base of the cam NOT the lobes, I did it by spinning the pushrods between my fingers and tightening them up till I felt the resistance change, then went a tad more---then moved to the next cylinder by bumping the motor over till the lifters were on the base of the cam and used the same procedure, and so on.
i don't think I could have caused the issue because there was no free-play in the valve train when I cranked up the motor, but I guess anything is possible.
I've done rockers before and never had any issue like this, I was just wondering about the quality of the parts. live and learn
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,736
Likes: 56
From: anchorage ak
sorry I didn't go into more detail earlier so I'll do it now.
I installed the rockers with the lifters on the base of the cam NOT the lobes, I did it by spinning the pushrods between my fingers and tightening them up till I felt the resistance change, then went a tad more---then moved to the next cylinder by bumping the motor over till the lifters were on the base of the cam and used the same procedure, and so on.
i don't think I could have caused the issue because there was no free-play in the valve train when I cranked up the motor, but I guess anything is possible.
I've done rockers before and never had any issue like this, I was just wondering about the quality of the parts. live and learn
I installed the rockers with the lifters on the base of the cam NOT the lobes, I did it by spinning the pushrods between my fingers and tightening them up till I felt the resistance change, then went a tad more---then moved to the next cylinder by bumping the motor over till the lifters were on the base of the cam and used the same procedure, and so on.
i don't think I could have caused the issue because there was no free-play in the valve train when I cranked up the motor, but I guess anything is possible.
I've done rockers before and never had any issue like this, I was just wondering about the quality of the parts. live and learn
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Virginia
lesson learned the hard way, I don't think coil bind is an issue, I'm running the same ratio rockers I've had on the motor the only difference is I went away from the guide plates/factory rockers and got the self-aligning/roller tip rockers.
the way I was taught to install rockers was to tighten them up just enough to create "drag" on the pushrods then go about another "flat" on the nut. then complete the adjustments with the motor running by loosening the rockers enough to get a slight tap out of them then tighten until it stops then go another 1/2 turn.
in fact, for the minute that the engine ran, it didn't have any valve train noise so I'm pretty sure I was VERY close on my initial adjustments.
I've already talked to Summit who will issue a full refund and I've ordered a set of COMP cams rockers (same configuration), cost twice as much but all in all, a cheap lesson learned.
the way I was taught to install rockers was to tighten them up just enough to create "drag" on the pushrods then go about another "flat" on the nut. then complete the adjustments with the motor running by loosening the rockers enough to get a slight tap out of them then tighten until it stops then go another 1/2 turn.
in fact, for the minute that the engine ran, it didn't have any valve train noise so I'm pretty sure I was VERY close on my initial adjustments.
I've already talked to Summit who will issue a full refund and I've ordered a set of COMP cams rockers (same configuration), cost twice as much but all in all, a cheap lesson learned.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
First, stay away from anything made by ProComp. They're cheap Chinese knock-offs with zero quality control. The commies that are copying our stuff have no idea what they'll be used for, or even what the part is. As long as it kinda looks like the part and is shiny and CHEAP, they're happy. You're not, but they are 'cause they have your cash.
Second, quit using the "spinning" method of determining zero lash. With perfect cups in the lifter and rocker arm and good lubrication, you can continue to spin the pushrod even after a few turns on the rocker nut. Hold the pushrod between your finger and thumb and rattle it up and down. When you can't rattle it, you're at zero. It doesn't take much practice to learn and it's a whole lot more reliable than spinning.
Third, stay away from anything made by ProComp. Wait, wasn't this also first?
Second, quit using the "spinning" method of determining zero lash. With perfect cups in the lifter and rocker arm and good lubrication, you can continue to spin the pushrod even after a few turns on the rocker nut. Hold the pushrod between your finger and thumb and rattle it up and down. When you can't rattle it, you're at zero. It doesn't take much practice to learn and it's a whole lot more reliable than spinning.
Third, stay away from anything made by ProComp. Wait, wasn't this also first?
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
First, stay away from anything made by ProComp. They're cheap Chinese knock-offs with zero quality control. The commies that are copying our stuff have no idea what they'll be used for, or even what the part is. As long as it kinda looks like the part and is shiny and CHEAP, they're happy. You're not, but they are 'cause they have your cash.
Second, quit using the "spinning" method of determining zero lash. With perfect cups in the lifter and rocker arm and good lubrication, you can continue to spin the pushrod even after a few turns on the rocker nut. Hold the pushrod between your finger and thumb and rattle it up and down. When you can't rattle it, you're at zero. It doesn't take much practice to learn and it's a whole lot more reliable than spinning.
Third, stay away from anything made by ProComp. Wait, wasn't this also first?
Second, quit using the "spinning" method of determining zero lash. With perfect cups in the lifter and rocker arm and good lubrication, you can continue to spin the pushrod even after a few turns on the rocker nut. Hold the pushrod between your finger and thumb and rattle it up and down. When you can't rattle it, you're at zero. It doesn't take much practice to learn and it's a whole lot more reliable than spinning.
Third, stay away from anything made by ProComp. Wait, wasn't this also first?
100%. To much margin for error on the spinning technique. Also, determining your on the heel of the lobe isn't a "close enough". If you use the shake technique and one of the accurate ways to determine your correct on the heel of the lobe there is no reason to run your engine with the valve covers off trying to set them by ear. Set them correctly cold, not running and your done. Kind of reminds me of setting your timing by ear. It can be done but a timing light is way more accurate with guaranteed better results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
The spinning technique works absolutely fine and IMHO is the most accurate way of finding zero lash. It's simple matter of spinning the pushrod until the first HINT of drag is felt...if you're not sure, back off and come up on it again. The idea that it's possible to turn several turns past zero lash spinning is ludicrous to anyone that's actually tried it. The pushrod isn't a precision fit in either the lifter or rocker cup - so the up-and-down can leave you quite a ways off zero lash. I've done back-to-back "trials" in my shop, and in every case the person I talked through the process got it 100% right, 100% of the time spinning.
No need for a pizzing match; just two perspectives - this one is mine
Last edited by billla; Feb 20, 2014 at 11:13 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 848
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
even though i have the Pro- Comp Heads on my car and again i point out i bought them bare. i agree with the others, i could not endorse using something like a roller rocker built under those conditions. the money saved is not worth the risk. a set of needle bearings rolling through your engine is not a good thing . 
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Pro comp is known for their off shore products but I would try rocker arms! I would just give the rollers extra scrutiny for excessive play and make sure the spring doesn't hit the bottom of the rocker.