Oil Pan Question!!!!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Oil Pan Question!!!!!
First off I'm new here been looking up information on line for a long time but never actually decided to join until yesterday. I hope this forum is useful!
Nonetheless, I have seen posting on oil pan removal. But it's not answering the questions that I have.
First, my engine is modified with a 70-80s 350 block meaning that the dip stick is on the passenger side by the starter. I also have long tube headers which are about 3-4in away from the starter. with the starter directly above the header. So if the starter has to come out the bolts wont clear and to do so I would have to pull the header.
With that being said can I get the pan off after dropping the steering linkage without removing the starter? The lip of the pan is tucked back slightly from the starter is there enough clearance?
Anyone with headers out there who has done this? Or has any tips on the easy way to do this? Oh and what are the two bolts that supposedly bolt to the frame on the passenger side? The only two bolts to me that make sense to remove are on the linkage itself on the passenger side...is that correct?
Thanks
Nonetheless, I have seen posting on oil pan removal. But it's not answering the questions that I have.
First, my engine is modified with a 70-80s 350 block meaning that the dip stick is on the passenger side by the starter. I also have long tube headers which are about 3-4in away from the starter. with the starter directly above the header. So if the starter has to come out the bolts wont clear and to do so I would have to pull the header.
With that being said can I get the pan off after dropping the steering linkage without removing the starter? The lip of the pan is tucked back slightly from the starter is there enough clearance?
Anyone with headers out there who has done this? Or has any tips on the easy way to do this? Oh and what are the two bolts that supposedly bolt to the frame on the passenger side? The only two bolts to me that make sense to remove are on the linkage itself on the passenger side...is that correct?
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 476
Likes: 37
From: Lynnwood WA
First off I'm new here been looking up information on line for a long time but never actually decided to join until yesterday. I hope this forum is useful!
Nonetheless, I have seen posting on oil pan removal. But it's not answering the questions that I have.
First, my engine is modified with a 70-80s 350 block meaning that the dip stick is on the passenger side by the starter. I also have long tube headers which are about 3-4in away from the starter. with the starter directly above the header. So if the starter has to come out the bolts wont clear and to do so I would have to pull the header.
With that being said can I get the pan off after dropping the steering linkage without removing the starter? The lip of the pan is tucked back slightly from the starter is there enough clearance?
Anyone with headers out there who has done this? Or has any tips on the easy way to do this? Oh and what are the two bolts that supposedly bolt to the frame on the passenger side? The only two bolts to me that make sense to remove are on the linkage itself on the passenger side...is that correct?
Thanks
Nonetheless, I have seen posting on oil pan removal. But it's not answering the questions that I have.
First, my engine is modified with a 70-80s 350 block meaning that the dip stick is on the passenger side by the starter. I also have long tube headers which are about 3-4in away from the starter. with the starter directly above the header. So if the starter has to come out the bolts wont clear and to do so I would have to pull the header.
With that being said can I get the pan off after dropping the steering linkage without removing the starter? The lip of the pan is tucked back slightly from the starter is there enough clearance?
Anyone with headers out there who has done this? Or has any tips on the easy way to do this? Oh and what are the two bolts that supposedly bolt to the frame on the passenger side? The only two bolts to me that make sense to remove are on the linkage itself on the passenger side...is that correct?
Thanks
Zorro
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
I was looking at it over lunch and my tranmission lines are there as well. Did you seriously have to remove them? This is starting to sound like a "Hey Honey are you going to be in the garage all night" evening.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Zorro...found this picture for how to drop the steering this should help.
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 476
Likes: 37
From: Lynnwood WA
Zorro...found this picture for how to drop the steering this should help.
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5.html
Zorro
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
No prob on the link.
So i should be ok in loosening the starter, hanging it from its bolts and working around the lines. I do however, have a Th350 with the shroud on the trans so I might need to drop the starter and pull the header. I sure hope I dont have to....not in the mood for that this evening.
B.
So i should be ok in loosening the starter, hanging it from its bolts and working around the lines. I do however, have a Th350 with the shroud on the trans so I might need to drop the starter and pull the header. I sure hope I dont have to....not in the mood for that this evening.
B.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 476
Likes: 37
From: Lynnwood WA
No prob on the link.
So i should be ok in loosening the starter, hanging it from its bolts and working around the lines. I do however, have a Th350 with the shroud on the trans so I might need to drop the starter and pull the header. I sure hope I dont have to....not in the mood for that this evening.
B.
So i should be ok in loosening the starter, hanging it from its bolts and working around the lines. I do however, have a Th350 with the shroud on the trans so I might need to drop the starter and pull the header. I sure hope I dont have to....not in the mood for that this evening.
B.
Zorro
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,372
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
With a manual trans you only need to remove the starter to better remove the flywheel cover without damaging it as the starter goes THROUGH the hole in it.
As for an automatic, no need to touch the starter. That flywheel cover can be unbolted and maneuvered past the starter without damage.
All this just to access the rear bolts on the pan.
The pic shows how much clearance......
Here's a pic from before I returned everything back to stock........
As for an automatic, no need to touch the starter. That flywheel cover can be unbolted and maneuvered past the starter without damage.
All this just to access the rear bolts on the pan.
The pic shows how much clearance......
Here's a pic from before I returned everything back to stock........
Last edited by KapsSA; Feb 21, 2014 at 10:33 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
First off I'm new here been looking up information on line for a long time but never actually decided to join until yesterday. I hope this forum is useful!
Nonetheless, I have seen posting on oil pan removal. But it's not answering the questions that I have.
First, my engine is modified with a 70-80s 350 block meaning that the dip stick is on the passenger side by the starter. I also have long tube headers which are about 3-4in away from the starter. with the starter directly above the header. So if the starter has to come out the bolts wont clear and to do so I would have to pull the header.
With that being said can I get the pan off after dropping the steering linkage without removing the starter? The lip of the pan is tucked back slightly from the starter is there enough clearance?
Anyone with headers out there who has done this? Or has any tips on the easy way to do this? Oh and what are the two bolts that supposedly bolt to the frame on the passenger side? The only two bolts to me that make sense to remove are on the linkage itself on the passenger side...is that correct?
Thanks
Nonetheless, I have seen posting on oil pan removal. But it's not answering the questions that I have.
First, my engine is modified with a 70-80s 350 block meaning that the dip stick is on the passenger side by the starter. I also have long tube headers which are about 3-4in away from the starter. with the starter directly above the header. So if the starter has to come out the bolts wont clear and to do so I would have to pull the header.
With that being said can I get the pan off after dropping the steering linkage without removing the starter? The lip of the pan is tucked back slightly from the starter is there enough clearance?
Anyone with headers out there who has done this? Or has any tips on the easy way to do this? Oh and what are the two bolts that supposedly bolt to the frame on the passenger side? The only two bolts to me that make sense to remove are on the linkage itself on the passenger side...is that correct?
Thanks
Once the pan is out, I clean the surfaces of the rear main cap and the timing cover where the oil pan gasket will mate to them. Once clean and before I install the 1-piece oil pan seal, I apply black rtv to the surface of the oil pan gasket at the rear cap and timing cover and put a dab on all corners of the oil pan gasket to ensure there are no leaks where the gasket gets pinched in the corners where the pan meets the cap/pan.
Last edited by TedH; Feb 21, 2014 at 10:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Thanks for the pics as well as the response I really do appreciate it.
After looking at it mine is a little closer than yours but I can fit it through. I am running into another set of problems with the suspension.
I can't take the idler arm off which is attached to the frame because it's about a 1/4 in from my headers. I tried taking the nut off at the bottom of the idler arm but I couldn't get it to budge. I'm debating disconnecting it again and lowering the car on the jack loading the suspension which should essentially release the arm. Thoughts?
If that dosent work I'm going to have to take the header off and the ac and the belts.....THERE HAS TO BE AN EASIER WAY!
After looking at it mine is a little closer than yours but I can fit it through. I am running into another set of problems with the suspension.
I can't take the idler arm off which is attached to the frame because it's about a 1/4 in from my headers. I tried taking the nut off at the bottom of the idler arm but I couldn't get it to budge. I'm debating disconnecting it again and lowering the car on the jack loading the suspension which should essentially release the arm. Thoughts?
If that dosent work I'm going to have to take the header off and the ac and the belts.....THERE HAS TO BE AN EASIER WAY!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Idler arm CHECK......Oil drained.....CHECK......Filter off......CHECK.....Trans shroud off.....check. Tomorrow all I have to do is drop the pan clean it and get the felpro gasket on and I'm good to go.
You guys have been a huge help.....thanks for all the comments, pics and help. I will keep you posted on how it's goes tomorrow.
Oh and found out where the leak was coming from. There was a small bend in the pan at the front center seal.....go figure!
You guys have been a huge help.....thanks for all the comments, pics and help. I will keep you posted on how it's goes tomorrow.
Oh and found out where the leak was coming from. There was a small bend in the pan at the front center seal.....go figure!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
We'll I was able to get everything back together this afternoon. Waiting on the RTV to cure overnight and I will connect the suspension in the morning, add oil and hopefully everything set with no leaks......fingers crossed! Thanks again guys for all the tips it was much easier with your help but still a tight fit.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Starter and headers stayed in place. Fired the motor no issues 10 minutes later dripping with 5 in puddle on the ground from the rear of the pan leaking out of the trans shroud......now what? Did I get the wrong gasket?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,372
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
Early motors, I think prior to 75 had thinner front and rear seals. Later had thicker seals. Difference in oil pans. I think you would know if you tried to compress the thicker seals where thin seals should go. You'd never draw the pan up.
But you might not realize using thin seals where thick should be.
How bad was it leaking before the new gasket?
Or could it be the rear of the intake leaking? Can you get a flashlight and little extension mirror to inspect the intake and even valve covers?
But you might not realize using thin seals where thick should be.
How bad was it leaking before the new gasket?
Or could it be the rear of the intake leaking? Can you get a flashlight and little extension mirror to inspect the intake and even valve covers?
Last edited by KapsSA; Feb 23, 2014 at 05:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
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From: Kansas
Kap,
The engine was a new race spec 355 not even 15 miles on the motor. I had a very small front oil pan leak maybe a drop or two after running the engine but the rear of the pan gasket was fine no leaks at all. After replacing the gasket there is a very very small leak in the front no drops on the ground. The rear was dripping but only after I shut the engine down. Was not leaking at all when running. The leak from the rear was a good 5-6in puddle on the ground and still dripping 5 hours later.
The reason for the leak in the first place was a cut into the felpro gasket at the front seal on the inside of the pan. As for now I have no idea what the deal is. I did have to push the dipstick out a bit to clear the pan going in which broke the silicone seal but is not leaking. The rear leak is coming from the rear seal leaking into the trans shroud and through the small drain hole on the bottom of the shroud.
If this was golf I would have thrown my clubs into the lake and headed to the club house for jack on the rocks.
The engine was a new race spec 355 not even 15 miles on the motor. I had a very small front oil pan leak maybe a drop or two after running the engine but the rear of the pan gasket was fine no leaks at all. After replacing the gasket there is a very very small leak in the front no drops on the ground. The rear was dripping but only after I shut the engine down. Was not leaking at all when running. The leak from the rear was a good 5-6in puddle on the ground and still dripping 5 hours later.
The reason for the leak in the first place was a cut into the felpro gasket at the front seal on the inside of the pan. As for now I have no idea what the deal is. I did have to push the dipstick out a bit to clear the pan going in which broke the silicone seal but is not leaking. The rear leak is coming from the rear seal leaking into the trans shroud and through the small drain hole on the bottom of the shroud.
If this was golf I would have thrown my clubs into the lake and headed to the club house for jack on the rocks.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Neil,
Idler was pretty easy. The top bolt was best accessed top side with 2 x 14mm box wrenches if you have one box wrench with a ratchet its much easier. The bottom bolt on the idler arm was best accessed from under the car. The bolt runs through the wheel well and into the frame with a nut on the end. Use your finger to hold it in place once its loose It has a square before the bolt head which locks it into the frame from the wheelwell side. That also takes a 14mm box wrench. Then go under the car pull the idler arm down and take the top of the piece that you just loosened up pull it to the side and use the frame to brace it so you dont have to push it down the whole time. Pan will slide right out.
Idler was pretty easy. The top bolt was best accessed top side with 2 x 14mm box wrenches if you have one box wrench with a ratchet its much easier. The bottom bolt on the idler arm was best accessed from under the car. The bolt runs through the wheel well and into the frame with a nut on the end. Use your finger to hold it in place once its loose It has a square before the bolt head which locks it into the frame from the wheelwell side. That also takes a 14mm box wrench. Then go under the car pull the idler arm down and take the top of the piece that you just loosened up pull it to the side and use the frame to brace it so you dont have to push it down the whole time. Pan will slide right out.