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I read that FAST has this pipe that slips onto tailpipe where you can attach an O2 sensor to test A/F ratio at tail pipe. The FAST wideband O2 meter is a hand-held device that you can get readings and log the ratio at idle and cruise to measure O2.
Is this a practical solution over permanently modifying the exhaust for measurements that are only performed when making mods?
I take that back, just read on the DIY o2 sensor site that "While it is possible to temporarily replace the OEM sensor (and render it useless), a better solution is something which can be attached to the tailpipe. This will only work if the vehicle does NOT have a functional catalytic convertor, and only if the exhaust system is short enough not to cool the sensor back to "warmup" mode. The best solution would be to tap into the exhaust reasonably close to the engine and add an extra bung (thanks to Joel LaBenz for the step-by-step on his installation. "
I've used innovative autos lm1 which worked great. I borrowed from a friend. If I bought one it would be mounted in the header as previously suggested with the gauge permanently mounted in the car.
The tailpipe kit does work...on most cars. It does not work on my '72 since the tailpipe is deep into the exhaust tip and you can't fix the tool deep enough into the pipe for it to work properly. It's not that hard (or expensive if you have to take it to a muffler shop) to weld a bung to your exhaust and just put a plug into it when you're not using it. That's what I do. While the first part of what gungatim wrote about the converter is true, the part about sensors is likely not correct with all but the most dead broke sensors. The sensors used for monitors and gauges are heated. There might be some exceptions, but those would have to be bottom line parts.
I can't speak to from what manufacturer you'd make a purchase. Some have more features than others, may be more durable, but the technology to give you a sensor reading is all the same.
I like to put the bungs in the collector adapter before the exhaust pipe and behind the flange giving enough room to move the flange around and clocked away from the bolts. My headers are Jet Hot Sterling coated, so I'm not messing them up.
I use the Daytona Twin Tech Wego III. It's a digital read out using a Bosch wide band sensor. Combined with a large face vacuum gauge, you can really dial in the separate circuits of the carb. DTT has single and dual channel Wego III units and units that have self storing data logging. The standard units will send data out to a laptop for data logging. You can find DTT with a Google search.
PS: The Wego III reads very close to the AFR meter on my Dynojet Dyno.
I read that FAST has this pipe that slips onto tailpipe where you can attach an O2 sensor to test A/F ratio at tail pipe. The FAST wideband O2 meter is a hand-held device that you can get readings and log the ratio at idle and cruise to measure O2.
Is this a practical solution over permanently modifying the exhaust for measurements that are only performed when making mods?
A/F gauge It is not an item used just for mods. It can be used to monitor your fuel ratios constantly. If you not interested in mounting a gauge then wire it so it is in the glove box.
Get a bung clamp drill the pipe install the O/2 . I can tell you from first hand experience you can dial a carb in so well that it is almost a crime to not have one on any older car with a carb.
A/F gauge It is not an item used just for mods. It can be used to monitor your fuel ratios constantly. If you not interested in mounting a gauge then wire it so it is in the glove box.
Get a bung clamp drill the pipe install the O/2 . I can tell you from first hand experience you can dial a carb in so well that it is almost a crime to not have one on any older car with a carb.
I can tell you from first hand experience you can dial a carb in so well that it is almost a crime to not have one on any older car with a carb.
I have to second this one. I will add again to get a vacuum gauge too. You can see where your power valve opens or needles lift depending on what carb you are running. You can really dial in your cruise and transition to power so that you get great mileage, throttle response and maximize power. With unleaded gas your plugs can only tell you so much. They don't color like they did with lead in the old days.