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I dropped the fuel tank on my 74 today in order to figure out how to do the internal fuel pump (Yes, I realize I COULD use an external, but I'm set on doing it in the tank.) Also, the Vette tank isn't baffled, so I plan on using an F Body pump that has the bucket around the pump to keep sloshing fuel at 1/2 tank or lower from effecting the fuel delivery. Onto the 30 dollar question. Once I got the fuel tank on the ground, there seems to be plenty of room to mount an F-Body Ls fuel pump in the top of the tank just below the fuel fill area or to either side by cutting a hole and installing a flange kit for the LS fuel pump. I plan on leaving the bottom mounted factory fuel sending unit in the tank as well for gas gauge purposes. I'm curious if there might be an easier or even a better way to achieve dependable fuel delivery? Please chime in!
Last edited by Patro46; Feb 23, 2014 at 09:11 PM.
Reason: typo
My 74 tank with a late model pump module
I am running a rail mounted regulator, by-passing the one in the module.
Is there a reason why you didn't mount the LS pump toward the rear of the fuel fill cap? The reason I ask is if I mount it in the middle, it has a wider piece of flat metal. It looks like the lock ring overhangs narrower lip? Also, please tell me about the flange you used to secure the LS1 fuel pump to the tank.
Last edited by Patro46; Feb 23, 2014 at 10:18 PM.
Reason: Added question
Is there a reason why you didn't mount the LS pump toward the rear of the fuel fill cap? The reason I ask is if I mount it in the middle, it has a wider piece of flat metal. It looks like the lock ring overhangs narrower lip? Also, please tell me about the flange you used to secure the LS1 fuel pump to the tank.
The tank is deepest there, and the bottom is not slanted as much. You would want to pull from the bottom of the tank, not leave an area below your module. I didn't use any "kit" (like Vetteworks), this is all factory and low buck. Module from late model car, I forget which one, factory retaining ring from a plastic tank. Ring tack welded to tank, factory O-ring seal, factory lock ring. New factory Delphi truck 6.0 pump installed in the module. All in for about $40.00 - if I remember correctly. DISCLAIMER: Cutting or welding on fuel tanks should be done only after taking proper precautions or on a new unused tank.
Last edited by 74modified; Feb 24, 2014 at 10:11 PM.
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Originally Posted by 74modified
My 74 tank with a late model pump module
I am running a rail mounted regulator, by-passing the one in the module.
Did you have to do anything special to bypass the internal regulator or just not loop the lines and run it to the rails, through the regulator and back to the tank/through the pump?
Did you have to do anything special to bypass the internal regulator or just not loop the lines and run it to the rails, through the regulator and back to the tank/through the pump?
Because I took the module apart and replaced the pump, I just ran the line from the pump straight to the outlet and removed the regulator. I have a regulator on the rail with a return line back to the module. I thought about running the return back to the original tank return to keep the warmer fuel out of the bucket, but didn't. The black piece is the regulator holder, the small gold-ish piece is the regulator. Your module may look a little different. Some of the F body modules have a venturi that will keep a higher level in the bucket than the tank has when the level is low. I also used factory nylon fuel lines with quick connects and fuel filter.
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