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Same fuse, might look for a ground, but more likely bad foil on back of gauges...printed circuit....or loose plug...not unheard of though to have a bunch of bad bulbs...
This is like an old acid flash back so it might not be true, I seemed to remember a ground wire to my tack and speedo so it may have come loose on yours. Again I can't remember it for sure but it kinda makes sense in you case since all went out. I have four bulbs for both my tach and speedo. Hope it's not the shrooms talking.
Is the '80 dash electronics totally different ?? :confused:
If not, I can take a picture and post it here for reference.
It will show the rear of the tach/speedo housing (steel sheet metal)
that the bulb bolders clip into - with labels showing which color wire
goes where.
There are 3 or 4 bulbs around the speedo and 3 or 4 around the tach. There are also seperate bulbs for each turn signal and the center idiot lights (brake, etc..).
Sounds like a bad wire, ground or a fuse because it would be amazing if they all went dead at the same time.
Ok, so there are eight? 4 for each? I have one or two out in each and can't drive at night until I fix it. Bulbs out and not a bad ground for me, right? BTW, what bulbs do I replace them with? I'll do them all, or atleast the ones I can reach easily.
OK guys ('n' gals) here are the pictures from the backside of the tach and
speedo. The dash lights are the ones labelled gray.
There are two blues for the directionals at the bottom - and two more (green)
at the top (not certain which these are).
The ground lug for the tach is on the top left of my picture - but it looks
like someone has messed with the tach connections. The ground lug for
the speedo side is covered by the trip odometer reset cable - on the bottom
support plate.
These should help those who don't want to drop the dash pad to change 'em.
All the lightbulbs for illumination have the same 12V & ground, they're wired in series. If the copper lip breaks where the connector plugs in or if there's a break in the copper all bulbs won't work.
Interesting, I have all my dash pads unscrewed now and trying to get the damn steering wheel to drop but the damn GM shop manual doesn't reference it correctly as far as I can see. It says to look at 3A but that is wheel alignment. So, how hard is it to disconnet the cables and wires to get all that out? I think I'll try it by laying on my back, feet through the T-Tops, mini mag in my mouth, and reaching up so I can leave a lot of connections there. I have to check my tach ground too, it bounces. The higher the RPM the greater the bounce.