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L-82 Head/Cam Replacement-Disaster!

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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:57 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
L-82 Back to Life:

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Old May 20, 2014 | 11:16 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
You guys are the best! Ok here we go:

Back to the original intent: get as much power as possible from a the original L-82 block with the basic look of an L-82 and rotating mass with the exception of the heads and the cam.If I painted the heads blue, it would really look stock but I decided to go bare aluminum since most know the 882 heads are crap. Compression should be 10-10.2:1, pretty much the limit for pump gas and maximum timing. Can you go higher, probably, but for my application-perfect!

As far as decking the block, from more than one source and the engine builder himself: NOT necessary on a street engine rarely seeing over 5,000 RPM as long as the deck is straight-It is!A radical 350 pushing 6,500+ RPM requires a decking if not 100% absolutely straight.

Headers and 2.5 inch duals not being stock-give me a break!

As for the L-82 intake, multiple sources on this one again including the engine builder: a more radical roller cam turning 6,500+ RPM, yes, an aftermarket intake will make a difference. NOT on my combo-very little difference. The intake is 100% cleaned and allows the dual snorkel GM air cleaner assembly-NOT possible with any aftermarket intake. If when the engine is broken in thoroughly, carb tuned, and gets on the dyno, if the engine makes 400-425 Gross HP, intake stays as is. If not, intake porting could be in the future. If the L-82 intake costs 5-8 HP, who cares?

Something to think about: Karols 78 L-82 4 speed with 3.70 gears made 248 RWHP on the SAME dyno with under drive pulleys, Edelbrock Performer intake, 882 heads, Quadrajet, and an aftermarket flat tappet cam versus my 233 RWHP with L-82 intake, L-82 cam, 882 heads, poor compression on Cylinder 6 as well as broken rings on the other cylinders (much more to this story during the teardown), Holley 4175, etc. Think about that?-15 HP for a cam and intake versus an L-82 NOT running at 100%. The difference if it was apples to apples was probably <10 HP for the aftermarket cam and Edlebrock Performer-Again, give me a break!

We will see.
Decking the block to zero increases octane tolerance, lowering the detonation threshold, and the 6 inch rod increases dwell time at TDC, further reducing detonation. I don't care what your builder told you, 0 deck is good for ALL engines, RPM range has nothing to do with it. Lower crevice volumes also reduce emissions and help with efficiency, as do higher compression ratios (to a point). LS engines have the piston UP out of the hole for a reason. They also have almost 6.125 long rods for a reason. You had to machine your block anyway, and recondition your rods, so IMO you could have made better choices, will your engine run fine ? Probably.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 11:33 AM
  #63  
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Will your engine run fine? No, it'll probably run great compared to what you had.
Your build is similar to mine. I did not deck the block, line bore it or even bore the cylinders.
Ball honed cylinders stock deck that varied .003" from one end to the other. My pistons vary from .023" to .026" down the hole.
I used D dish pistons and a 219@.050/219@.050 roller cam 270 seat duration.
I have 2500 miles on it so far. Have a 9.9:1 CR with .038" to .041" squish. Absolutely no detonation using 3 gallons 91 octane and the rest 85 octane fuel @ 4000 feet. I may be able to run straight 85 octane it's so ping resistant.
I run it hard, rev to 6000 rpm tires spin shifting into second on a TH-350 with 3.08 rear, scat crank and rods, performer intake, no problems so far and no pinging at any temp or power level.

I think yours will perform well too.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 12:20 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by c6silver
Decking the block to zero increases octane tolerance, lowering the detonation threshold, and the 6 inch rod increases dwell time at TDC, further reducing detonation. I don't care what your builder told you, 0 deck is good for ALL engines, RPM range has nothing to do with it. Lower crevice volumes also reduce emissions and help with efficiency, as do higher compression ratios (to a point). LS engines have the piston UP out of the hole for a reason. They also have almost 6.125 long rods for a reason. You had to machine your block anyway, and recondition your rods, so IMO you could have made better choices, will your engine run fine ? Probably.
You certainly know more about this issue than I do but for my objective and intent on the build, the engine is good to go!
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Old May 20, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Will your engine run fine? No, it'll probably run great compared to what you had.
Your build is similar to mine. I did not deck the block, line bore it or even bore the cylinders.
Ball honed cylinders stock deck that varied .003" from one end to the other. My pistons vary from .023" to .026" down the hole.
I used D dish pistons and a 219@.050/219@.050 roller cam 270 seat duration.
I have 2500 miles on it so far. Have a 9.9:1 CR with .038" to .041" squish. Absolutely no detonation using 3 gallons 91 octane and the rest 85 octane fuel @ 4000 feet. I may be able to run straight 85 octane it's so ping resistant.
I run it hard, rev to 6000 rpm tires spin shifting into second on a TH-350 with 3.08 rear, scat crank and rods, performer intake, no problems so far and no pinging at any temp or power level.


I think yours will perform well too.
Well there you go-You DON'T have to deck the block and zero issues with detonation!
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Old May 20, 2014 | 03:32 PM
  #66  
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If you run stock everything with a stock compression height piston you will have the piston aprox. .025 in the hole. The stock piston has a compression height of 1.560. You can buy a Probe custom, 1.585 compression height, 4.030 bore low expansion forged flat top for about $500 for a set. This gets you a 0.00 deck height without decking the block. Combined with a .039 gasket you have excellent .039 quench, flat top, aluminum 65 cc heads, maximum detonation resistance and can save your block stamp. Figured this out building a factory correct BBC that I needed to save the numbers on and maximize power and streetability yet run modern pump fuel. By the time you figure you are already buying pistons, don't have to pay for decking, .039 felpro gaskets are cheap the net cost for the Probe custom pistons upgrade was negligible.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Well there you go-You DON'T have to deck the block and zero issues with detonation!
Well, he's at 4000 ft. Pretty thin air. (though I doubt you'll have a problem with detonation. All the oil in your chambers certainly aided any detonation you had previously).
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Old May 20, 2014 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by AirBusPilot
Well, he's at 4000 ft. Pretty thin air. (though I doubt you'll have a problem with detonation. All the oil in your chambers certainly aided any detonation you had previously).
Correct. 4000 ft puts me around 9.0:1 effective CR. But I also am burning equivalent to 86 octane fuel. At sea level 91 would be more than adequate.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #69  
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93 octane is available everywhere in New England around me. No issues if I need to run it. Mid grade is 89.

Original pistons were carboned, not detonation-poor combustion. Missing piston ring on #6. Broken piston rings on others.
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Old May 21, 2014 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Will your engine run fine? No, it'll probably run great compared to what you had.
Your build is similar to mine. I did not deck the block, line bore it or even bore the cylinders.
Ball honed cylinders stock deck that varied .003" from one end to the other. My pistons vary from .023" to .026" down the hole.
I used D dish pistons and a 219@.050/219@.050 roller cam 270 seat duration.
I have 2500 miles on it so far. Have a 9.9:1 CR with .038" to .041" squish. Absolutely no detonation using 3 gallons 91 octane and the rest 85 octane fuel @ 4000 feet. I may be able to run straight 85 octane it's so ping resistant.
I run it hard, rev to 6000 rpm tires spin shifting into second on a TH-350 with 3.08 rear, scat crank and rods, performer intake, no problems so far and no pinging at any temp or power level.

I think yours will perform well too.
Please explain how you got 9.9 compression with .026 down the hole with an .039 or even a thin steel shim gasket and a D shaped dish, presumably with valve notches...what is the cc on the head ? What head is it ? What gasket ? Thanks.
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Old May 21, 2014 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by c6silver
Please explain how you got 9.9 compression with .026 down the hole with an .039 or even a thin steel shim gasket and a D shaped dish, presumably with valve notches...what is the cc on the head ? What head is it ? What gasket ? Thanks.
Sure no problem.
Only one piston was .026 in the hole. The rest were between .0245 and .023 down the hole.
I used .024 for my calculations.
11.5 cc dish pistons.
61cc Dart SHP heads. I had them shaved from 67cc's.
.015" felpro shim head gasket.
270 duration cam on a 108 lsa, 4* advance ground in.
4.0" bore
3.48" stroke
5.7" rods
Comes out to 9.88:1 to be precise. Or 9.90:1 for the .0230 in the hole pistons of which there are two.
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Old May 21, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Thank you for the information. I assumed you were using something like 58cc TPI Vette aluminum heads with a typical TRW D dish piston, and a steel shim gasket doesn't work with the aluminum heads.
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Old May 21, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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Think about how good a swimmer you could be swimming with alligators. I figure before his acting career as Tarzan Johnny Weismuller probably trained swimming with alligators, the reason he never lost a single swimming event he entered.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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Update!

Installed the "new" L-82 over the memorial day weekend (what a B**ch getting the engine connected to the Super T-10) and finally got her fired up yesterday. Lots of little things to do to get her running just right but I did seat the rings yesterday per the builders instructions after a 30 minute breakin procedure running Driven Oil Breakin oil and then changed to Driven Conventional oil for the road test. Holy smokes! The engine pulls like a freight train pretty down low. Need to get new ignition wires (old ones are too short and burned a wire), mechanical timing advance is sticking, reset the timing after I lube the weights, have the distributor recurved, replace the secondary metering plate with an adjustable metering block etc. Very impressed by the power and the engine is MUCH louder now with 10:1 compression. Zero detonation with the regular gas in the tank so far-plan to run at least 89 octane or 93. Is she as fast as my 10 Z06? No but pretty darn fast for a 78 C3-lifts the nose on hard acceleration! Stay tuned.

Last edited by jb78L-82; Jun 3, 2014 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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mine started good before, but with 10-1 compression it starts so quick its hard to even hear the starter.
good job, now go enjoy it. and you will!
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 06:48 PM
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I've been waiting for an update on this one. glad it's running. I hope all the small things don't take too long to fine tune.

Do you plan on getting it back on the dyno to see how you've done?
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 06:58 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Correct. 4000 ft puts me around 9.0:1 effective CR. But I also am burning equivalent to 86 octane fuel. At sea level 91 would be more than adequate.
Has anybody else noticed that the only people who seem to care about elevation and it's effect on an engine seem to be pilots? Must be from the experience of flying piston driven aircraft at high altitudes. Anyway, glad to hear your new engine is running well, keep us posted, ya hear?

Scott
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To L-82 Head/Cam Replacement-Disaster!

Old Jun 3, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Update!

Installed the "new" L-82 over the memorial day weekend (what a B**ch getting the engine connected to the Super T-10) and finally got her fired up yesterday. Lots of little things to do to get her running just right but I did seat the rings yesterday per the builders instructions after a 30 minute breakin procedure running Driven Oil Breakin oil and then changed to Driven Conventional oil for the road test. Holy smokes! The engine pulls like a freight train pretty down low. Need to get new ignition wires (old ones are too short and burned a wire), mechanical timing advance is sticking, reset the timing after I lube the weights, have the distributor recurved, replace the secondary metering plate with an adjustable metering block etc. Very impressed by the power and the engine is MUCH louder now with 10:1 compression. Zero detonation with the regular gas in the tank so far-plan to run at least 89 octane or 93. Is she as fast as my 10 Z06? No but pretty darn fast for a 78 C3-lifts the nose on hard acceleration! Stay tuned.
Good deal! I'm sure you had a pretty good grin on your face, driving your C3, with a fresh engine rebuild in there AND some serious performance.

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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
I've been waiting for an update on this one. glad it's running. I hope all the small things don't take too long to fine tune.

Do you plan on getting it back on the dyno to see how you've done?
yes I will get on the dyno probably next year after it is broken in better. Problem is that the builders dyno is a Mustang dyno NOT a dynojet that I used before so I will have to get it on 2 dynos.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Has anybody else noticed that the only people who seem to care about elevation and it's effect on an engine seem to be pilots? Must be from the experience of flying piston driven aircraft at high altitudes. Anyway, glad to hear your new engine is running well, keep us posted, ya hear?

Scott
good observation Scott.

Jb78 good to hear you got it running. Get the little stuff sorted out and the fun starts.
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