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I wouldn't do anything else before taking it to the builder.
I agree. It sounds like you've got yourself all worked up and on the defense, when it seems the company has been great and said to bring it back in. Probably what you should have done in the first place with the pan gasket rather then trying multiple times.
Everything could have been taken care of already if you just took it in and explained your issues.
One more thought......2 days ago it still leaked that is an ongoing issue. But it did run great and sounded perfect just as it did when I picked it up from the shop. The only thing I did since then was take the air filter assembly off to put in a K&N filter. Is it possible that I hit something putting the assembly in???
Builder delivered you an engine that ran great and sounded perfect. It had an oil leak that they had no problem fixing. This happens and it sounds like they are willing to make it right. Then you come on a public forum all pissed off and bash them repeatedly after you worked on it, before even giving them an opportunity to look at it let alone fix it. It sounds like you probably knocked a vacuum line off or a minor tuning issue. I would not blame them if they refused to touch it and sent you packing but it sounds like they are a stand up outfit and will take care of it. I'm glad your not my customer.
Builder delivered you an engine that ran great and sounded perfect. It had an oil leak that they had no problem fixing. This happens and it sounds like they are willing to make it right. Then you come on a public forum all pissed off and bash them repeatedly after you worked on it, before even giving them an opportunity to look at it let alone fix it. It sounds like you probably knocked a vacuum line off or a minor tuning issue. I would not blame them if they refused to touch it and sent you packing but it sounds like they are a stand up outfit and will take care of it. I'm glad your not my customer.
Listen go back and re-read the posts, i in no way shape or form bashed this company, and I know they are a stand up company because they are taking care of the issue which I already stated. A number of people I know run thier engines with ZERO issues. I just want to make sure its not something that i overlooked or an easy fix.
Is this not a place to ask questions? Is this not where fellow corvette owners go to seek guidance? I am not an engine builder or an expert. But if I can get resolution on an issue without having to drive 400 miles thats saves me money....my hard earned money. It also saves them the builder time if someone has had this issue and can state how to fix it. So when I walk in there tomorrow I can say hey take a look at this or I heard that there have been issue with that in the past.
If you feel that I bashed them well then you are mistaken my friend. But answer one question. When its a dream of yours to have an engine like this in your vette, and you sacraficed 4 years of deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan and not seeing your family to do so.....would you not be a little upset. I am bothered by the situation NOT THE BUILDER!!!!!!!!
Check vacuum lines at the carb and intake, Check choke and linkage. Did you tighten the pan bolts real tight? They are just snugged then a little about 10 ft lbs. Tighten them a little to much it dimples the pan and they leak. Sorry, it seemed as though you felt wronged by the builder. Thank you for your service.
63 mako I will take a look after work tonight while I am buring the midnight oil.
Also I appreceate your comment about my service.
I really like this builder and would recommend anyone who wants a solid engine to go with Yeoman they are hard to beat and truly gave me my dream engine.
Honestly **** happens as the saying goes and its not falut of thier and I do not blame them. I have made mistakes in my profession "tons" over my 14 years. Does not mean that I am not a professional nor a good officer just human.
The weather is nice and I just want to turn my paperweight into the bad a$$ monster that it is.
Oh and the pan was tourqed to spec its the timing cover that is not sealing to the pan.
Ok went home after work took the air cleaner assembly off and you will never guess what I found.
There is a zip tie that was put on the primary fuel line to keep it off the intake manifold that was caught in the throttle. Pulled that out put the air cleaner on pumped the gas 3 times and if fired before I could turn the key all the way. Also idled as it always has.....dead on and no stalling.
However, there is a distinct howl from the alternator that will need to get fixed....I can deal w that, and now I can get my moroso pan on. All is well in Kansas
hmmm tells us about it from carb to moroso pan. fixing to build a 355 not sure how racy it will be. maybe I can pick up a good idea from you and yeoman.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 7, 2014 at 03:50 PM.
Just got the car dropped off everything will be taken care of should have it back by next Saturday, took all day to get there and back but that's ok. The guys at Yeoman were excellent to work with as always and even made room in the shop so my car would be stored indoors. I'm sure everyone has their own builder but the guys are hard to beat. Had nothing but motors in the front of the store and 5 or 6 being built. Had a awesome 383 putting down 580hp.....that's a bruiser
What exactly is a 355 Race Spec Engine and what kind of rpm is the redline?
The engine was a IMCA Dirt Mod motor built to IMCA sanctions/specs hence race spec. In a mod when running on the track redline is about 7000-8000. In my vette with the stock rear end and a 40 year old suspension about 6000. There is also less of a cam in it then what used to be but still has tons of hook up and power.
355, 10.7:1 SCR, 8.3 DCR, B-W M-21, 3.55, Center Force billet steel 36# flywheel and DFX clutch/PP, 650 Holley DP Street HP, AFR 195's, K-B domed pistons, Howard's Cams 280* retro HR .560"/.560" and lifters/pushrods, Weiand Team G SP intake.
I have a 36lb center force flywheel, with a 12 inch dia. dual friction pressure plate and disc. flywheel excepts both 11 or 12 inch. One of my three blocks should check out ok.
Going to use a 49 cc chamber, 21 degree valve angle, dished piston. Hollow stem ferra intake valve. manley exhaust.
Behive PAC brand valve spring, pro 55 cam core, solid lifters, Lifters may or may not get bigger in dia.
Rotating kit planning on from flatlanders. Have a couple 800 dp from the olden days may have to be used. planned rpm 4000/4500 on up. Tight LSA with a close ratio trans. Should end up less then 2100 lbs without me in the car.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 7, 2014 at 08:53 PM.
I have a 36lb center force flywheel, with a 12 inch dia. dual friction pressure plate and disc. flywheel excepts both 11 or 12 inch. One of my three blocks should check out ok.
Going to use a 49 cc chamber, 21 degree valve angle, dished piston. Hollow stem ferra intake valve. manley exhaust.
Behive PAC brand valve spring, pro 55 cam core, solid lifters, Lifters may or may not get bigger in dia.
Rotating kit planning on from flatlanders. Have a couple 800 dp from the olden days may have to be used. planned rpm 4000/4500 on up. Tight LSA with a close ratio trans. Should end up less then 2100 lbs without me in the car.
I got out of racing to save money........then I bought a 76 vette. If I keep going on the vette it might be a wash.