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Im going to buy a set of iron dart heads because I want iron heads, its an American manufacture. They don't even make a fully CNC head in iron that's small enough for the 331 I want to build. Dart does make some 220 race series aluminum heads that put the power out but there way higher in price then an AFR head, its most likely the best for the cost no doubt.
I had gone with aluminum just to be able to run a higher CR without detonation. I already have a set of GM iron heads.
As the consumer you are the last QC inspector. Everything needs to be checked. We just redid the valve job and guides on a $7000 set of heads going on a drag engine build.
Any heads I buy will get blueprinterd by me. I did this professionally as the owner of a machine shop in years past. I still have most of my head/valve work equipment.
I'm getting the feeling here that I'm expecting too much from these manufacturers nowadays. I guess it's time for me to get my buret out of retirement.
AFR had my guides .001 bigger than the valve stem. Had to open them up another thousandth. Yes. You never assume something is correct out of the box no matter who makes it. Mine were competition ported 195's (old design). Motorhead I believe had the same exact numbers on his 227's (new design). It seems that is how they make them. .001 to .0027 should be the clearance new so AFR is at the minimum but I talked it over with Tim and went .0020. Might see some nitrous. Motorhead opened his up also.
Crappy head work is what got me into the machine shop business in the first place. I gave a set of Ford 390 heads to a shop and they came back massacred. This was the first set of heads I rebuilt. The guides were cast iron- no inserts. I bought a guide reamer and oversize stem valves. I set the clearance at the factory spec, and some of the valves stuck in the guides when I fired up the engine. I had to pull the heads to fix it. We all make mistakes. It's a lot of extra work though to get the chambers right. If I'm paying for 72 cc chambers... I expect them to be right around 72 without any additional work on my part.
...On those KB pistons make extra sure you gap the rings properly. It's super critical for those pistons to have a proper ring end gap on the top ring, and it is large on those pistons. Somewhere in the .030" -.035" range if I recall.
As the consumer you are the last QC inspector. Everything needs to be checked. We just redid the valve job and guides on a $7000 set of heads going on a drag engine build.
There you have it.
Spend what you can afford, mistakes are still made.
I notice they say they are not file fit. I don't know if they are different in construction from the file fit rings, but you'll be filing those for KB pistons.
Moly faced ring on top, should seal up well.
I'm kinda old school (read cheap) still on rings and tend towards chrome faced, but that requires a coarser surface for the cylinder. They are draggy. On my 406 I might give moly faced a try.
I notice they say they are not file fit. I don't know if they are different in construction from the file fit rings, but you'll be filing those for KB pistons.
Moly faced ring on top, should seal up well.
I'm kinda old school (read cheap) still on rings and tend towards chrome faced, but that requires a coarser surface for the cylinder. They are draggy. On my 406 I might give moly faced a try.
I was thinking a chrome ring only came into play if your in dusty conditions trying to do the old Baja 1000 or something like that. maybe a dirt bike, Im I wrong. You have that vette on the opening page of the forum just won't admit it
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 17, 2014 at 10:49 AM.
I was thinking a chrome ring only came into play if your in dusty conditions trying to do the old Baja 1000 or something like that. maybe a dirt bike, Im I wrong. You have that vette on the opening page of the forum just won't admit it
I wouldn't say only, but chrome faced rings are good for that. Much of my experience is with chrome faced rings that's all.
I have ridden dirt bikes for a long time.
The 64cc head with .035" quench and -5cc flat tops will give you 10.5 to 1. With aluminum heads this is completely doable on the street. You just have to match the cam to it.
Here is a link to a pretty good article on DCR, dynamic compression ratio. The author is a little conservative in what he believes is streetable DCR. I run quite a bit higher on pump gas. If you stay below 9.00 to 1 DCR you should be good as long as you tune the engine properly.
There is a free DCR calculator on the link also.
Agree that 10:1 is completely do-able on 91 octane if the cam lobe center angle is not so wide that you build super high cylinder pressure.
With your stroke the runner volume would probably work fine, but you'd still have to check the chamber volume to get the CR your looking for.
On those KB pistons make extra sure you gap the rings properly. It's super critical for those pistons to have a proper ring end gap on the top ring, and it is large on those pistons. Somewhere in the .030" -.035" range if I recall.
Just received the pistons and rings. KB instructions say for street normally aspirated, piston to wall clearance of .0015 - .0020, multiply the bore times .0065. This (.0065 x 4.020) gives me .02613 ring end gap.