I am hoping for your help.

I live in the Netherlands and want to import a 383 stroker 420hp long block from the US. I have found some interesting deals but need more information about the challenges there are to build this 383 into my 1976 190hp manual 4-speed C3.

I have the following questions:
1. Does each motor fit with the current engine connection point? (don't know the english word, but the bolts which connect the engine to the frame).
2. I know there are only limited set-up which fit under the standard hood. Do you have tips which suit the best?
3. Does the current flywheel fits with a new 383 engine?
4. Does the rpm meter fits with every engine?
5. What are the main problems with installing a 383 engine into a vette?

Hoping for your input.

thanks.

Regards,

Michael

 

you have to provide more information, a link to the engine you are considering to buy is necessary.

 

It is plug and play ,, simple swap comparable to taking your existing motor out and putting it back in . Bolt for bolt

 

Externally the 383 is the same as the 350 in there originally. One thing to make sure of is that the 383 will take a mechanical fuel pump. Not likely to be a problem, but worth checking.
The English term you're looking for is motor mounts.
With a 76, hood clearance should not be a problem. I had the stock air cleaner on the 383 with Edelbrock Performer manifold, at the time, under the stock hood of my 77.

 

There are two ways to build a 383. Externally balanced and internally balanced. Make sure you know which one you are getting. I think most are internally balanced nowadays. If its internally balanced, your existing flywheel will bolt up. If its externally balanced, that means the engine is balanced with the vibration damper and flywheel as a unit. The flywheel is not neutral balanced as it is on your 350. If you are getting an externally balanced 383 you have to make sure you get the flywheel from the engine manufacturer to make sure it is balanced to match the engine. Then the only issue becomes which size flywheel to get. Get the one that matches what you already have. Either 10.5" or 11".

Couple other thoughts. Later model engines use a one piece rear main seal. These engines use a different flywheel bolt pattern. Stick with the two piece rear main seal to keep things easy. The other issue is which side of the engine the dipstick is on.

 

most 383 engines will need a external balanced dampner and pressure plate ,like those off a 400 sbc .unless you pay to have the engine internally balanced .the elderbrock performer intake is about the tallest intake you can fit under a stock hood ,if you are using the stock air filter lid set up. the 383 sbc is a 350 block with a 3.75 crank .if you have not bought the engine yet ,the great folks on this forum mite be able to help you find the best engine for the money .

 

If your gonna buy an engine assembled check out cnc-motorsports. Good guys to work with great prices.

 

Odds are your looking at the Blueprint engines long block. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ML...T1?seid=srese2
It has Pro Comp heads. It is externally balanced. It is 1 piece rear seal. You have a manual trans. Your looking at a $500 flywheel using an external balanced 1 piece rear seal. There is no way I would buy one of those. Others have with good luck but it is made with the least expensive parts. Notice in the advertising there are no part manufacturer names listed. There is a reason for that.
If you can reuse your flywheel you can spend $500 more on an engine with better internals and heads. To reuse your flywheel you need an internally balanced 2 piece rear main engine.
If you decide to go with the externally balanced setup there are better options with better parts for a little more money.
This is decent quality components throughout for another $500 and will make 450 HP or better but, again your buying a $500 flywheel.. http://www.competitionproducts.com/C.../#.UyXUw8JOXcs

If your willing to spend a little more and get internally balanced with cast or forged bottom end. Look here:
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html

Also, another vote for cnc-motorsports. Good shop, will build to your specs. A 2piece main SHP Block is best of both worlds. It allows you to use a two piece rear seal, internally balanced and set up for a factory type roller cam. This gets you a roller, better build and bottom end, reuse your existing flywheel and you can get the 4.125 bore at no upcharge so you go to 400 CI. ALL NEW PARTS!

 

Thanks for the support.
I am very interested in the 420hp 383 from smedingperformance. http://www.smedingperformance.com/ch...orsepower.html

The blue printed blocks from summit are all externally balanced, I haven't found a good (and payable) internally balanced, 2 pieces seal option at this moment.

 

I purchased a 383 short block, about 7 years ago, from 'The Engine Store' in Winona, MN. The block was '0' decked, Eagle rotating assembly Speed Pro pistons, Perfect Circle rings, Clevite main and rod bearings, internally balanced. I had them also install a CC XE-274 flat tappet cam and Speed Pro timing set. The cost was $2099.91 + shipping. BTW, the block was a 2 piece rear seal 4bolt as ordered.

I had a good set of 64cc aluminum heads, and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake from my old 350, that I installed. Using a short block also gave me the opportunity to easily check clearances. They were as I had requested. Static C.R., with the pistons I requested, is 10.30.

The owner, Kent Grover, was easy to work with and everything was per MY specs. Engine has been running for 7 years in my '76, without problems.