I just removed my radiator from my 76 (Has a small leak) I think this is the first time its been out like everything else it came out hard . When I take to the shop for the leak what else should I ask for? I don't want to do this again anytime soon.cleaning ? pressure test? some of my fins got bent when I took it out will this be a big deal? My fan shroud is now in 3 pieces so that should go in easy(no I wasnt happy about it)any ideas to put that back together and look good ? My plan is rad first then worry about the shroud second also worried about all my foam pieces hope I can figure where they all go any tips or advice would be great thanks everyone slo rde

 

I think a pressure test would be needed. But I'm sure the shop would have more recommendations on what they do with older radiators.

Mine was having problems a couple years ago. I yanked it and put in a new one for the reason you mention. Its not easy nor fun replacing a radiator in a C3.

As totally sucky as it sounds, you need to have that shroud in there. Your temps will get too high without it (in most cases, depending on climate in your area). I tried without for a week and was not happy with the climbing temps. Sorry, I don't know about repairing it.

Another low-cost option is to look for a late model Camaro electric fan and put in. 71Roadster here put one in his C3 for about $85. Look on Corvettefaq.com for info on his installation. Would save a lot of headache with the shroud and fan. Just a thought. (and obviously not original if thats your intention with the C3)

good luck
-terry


[Modified by terryrudy, 1:05 PM 7/16/2002]

 

Depending on how well it was cooling, you might as well have it recored. Look inside the radiator and see if it looks like there is a bunch of crud built up. If so, a re-core and flush will do wonders. Just keep in mind that a brand new aluminum Griffin radiator is only $185 from Summit.

Russ

 

I would repeat a suggestion that someone made before -- tape a piece of cardboard to the back of the radiator before you re-install it. Once you have it in position, take it off & then bolt everything back up. --That way, there is less chance of bending the fins on the radiator.

 

Dude . . . I hate to tell you this, but you didn't have to chop up the shroud. There are three bolts per side (accessable from the front fender wells) that hold the radiator support. Loosen the bottom bolt on each side, remove the top two on each side and the support will swivel on the bottom bolts toward the front of the car. LEAVE THE SHROUD IN PLACE. Slide the radiator out from between the shroud and the support.

Installation is in reverse. I have had my radiator out twice, once for replacement and once for a cam change. The first time was a bi*ch. The second was a breeze.

Ron

 

Yes to having it both cleaned and pressure checked, and re-core if necessary and not too expensive.

Consider purchase of new radiator seal kit, unless your's is in really good shape, but don't know how well the adhesive will hold.

Strongly suggest you check condition of your radiator support..........not uncommon at all for these pieces to rust, and many times rust badly, at bottom, where both water and crud can collect.

Probably should replace lower radiator hose, unless you know it's in really good condition.

Install new transmission cooler line to radiator hoses if you have an automatic.

Consider installation of new Robert Shaw "balanced" thermostat (180 to 190 degree)

Check condition of all belts and replace as necessary.

Check condition of waterpump, look from bottom side of engine for evidence of coolant leakage by 'weep' hole or by water pump shaft area, and spin water pump and feel/listen for noise indicating rough bearings.

Good time to pull power steering pump and clean / replace worn / leaking hoses.

Now that you have the radiator out, why "pop" and go for that cam change?????

 

As to the shroud repair, I would think you could rivit the pieces to some sheet aluminum, patch the gaps with epoxy and paint to match.
Then tell everyone you had to fix what the previous owner did :jester

 

Been there, done that. I argee with most of the above. I went the new radiator route GDI radiator, Local Radiator shop $185, 3 core.

Pulling out the radiator is not all that fun and to make it easier take the fan and the belts off (this makes getting the shroud off easier).

While your at it, new hoses, aftermarket clamps, and belts, heater control valve and themostat.

And a little tip to make those hoses come off easy the next time. "BTW, I allways use a thin coat of RTV in hose fittings to allow easy release and stop all leakage...comes off like a charm next time...
GENE " from mrvette" >>>>>>>>>this works...

Above tip works, but a really thin coat, you don't want RTV in the engine or radiator core.

I'd also spend the time, cleaning up the front of the engine bay with the radiator out. Cleaned the Radiator support and POR-15 (Black - rust proofed) it. Had to patch the inside lower right of Rad. support with Galv. Steel (Por-15 - black) and provided 1/4" drain holes in bottom support. A Por-15 starter kit did the job with half left over for somethong else.

As for the shroud, I'd try to patch it together with alum. or Galv. Steel and cover the patch with fiberglass resin and paint flat black (or bite the bullit for a new shroud,,,ouch!) . Also test fit along the way, my shroud is barely in the bottom clips and is pushed left so fan does not rub. Also get new foam seals. Good luck. I spend 10 - 12 hours ( 6 nights @ 2hrs) getting new radiator and cleanup completed.

Now, car runs right at 195 F (195 F themostat).

 

You're getting alot of good advice here. I just finished this job a few days ago. Yeah, it's difficult but not if you tilt the support forward like advised earlier. I had mine re cored (4 core), bought new foam seals for all around the shroud, and replaced all my belts and hoses. Hey do it now while it's easy. BTW, I didn't see it in your post but ... do you have your hood off?

 

The tip about the hood is the best one yet. It really gives you room to work. While you have everything out, pull the rad support as well. I'll put $ on it that it is rusty( if it has not been replaced). When you go to install everything, put the support, Rad and shroud together when out of the car and install as one unit. Takes me about 15 minutes to remove and install this way.

Stew