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Old 03-19-2014, 05:35 PM
  #41  
scottyp99
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Originally Posted by hugie82
That's a badass little mouse. I thought he was parking in the woods there for a second but he pulled it out! to everyone that drives their vette like they stole it!!!!
I'm hip, man! I was all, like, "Uh, oh! He's lost it! He's goin' into the woods! I hope he doesn't hit anything really big!" But then he was all, like, "Ain't no thing but a chicken wing!", kept the hammer down, and put on a pretty decent show. I think they get a little bit crazy up there by the time spring starts, if ya know what I mean.

Scott
Old 03-19-2014, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hugie82
That's a badass little mouse. I thought he was parking in the woods there for a second but he pulled it out! to everyone that drives their vette like they stole it!!!!
It's down on the highway to valdez, the road actually has a pull off on both sides of the high way.
Old 03-19-2014, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
I think they get a little bit crazy up there by the time spring starts, if ya know what I mean.Scott
Ah what? I don't know what your talking about, I never slept with my sister!
Old 03-19-2014, 08:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Ran some numbers through the DCR calculator. At 2200 ft it looks like you need a intake valve closing point of 74* or later to get the DCR to 8.2 or lower. This is assuming 5 cc pistons and all other parameters as originally posted.
This cam can do that.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...make/chevrolet
It says 3000 to 6000 rpm. For a 412 that may be more like 2500 to 5500?
Putting it into the calc it comes up 8.19 DCR.

If Mako63 would chime in, he would have a better idea about this.

I'm not an engine builder by profession or anything like some other people here are.
The Hydraulic roller cam I speced has an intake closing point of 73 and a ton more lift. A few things to consider is the AFR 195 Eliminators flow what anybody else's 210's flow. The chamber design is a fast burn so you can dial timing back. They actually make best power @ 32-34 degrees vs 36. Helps reduce detonation. Dish pistons somewhat negate the quench effect the flat top piston and 65CC chamber combination will have a real good flame travel, the A/F mixture is in a small ball and this also increases detonation resistance. It would be a better build combination to reduce compression some and a little smaller cam but for me I would go for it. Your call.

Last edited by 63mako; 03-19-2014 at 08:34 PM.
Old 03-19-2014, 09:03 PM
  #45  
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Mako, I like what I'm hearing from you. In this app, when u say 34* are we talking all in w/vac advance @2500, or we just talking mechanical?

Speaking of vacuum, what kind of vac will I be looking at? With this setup.

Earlier the guys figured this would die under the new found power, would the flat tappet cam reelav8r specd leave enough on the table to live with and still be the "beast" your cam would offer?

I'm starting to feel comfy with this idea.

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...0404/overview/
Is this garbage? Or good enough?

About a 7:1 difference between flat cam and lifter compared to HR, what say you fellas, worth the cash?
Old 03-19-2014, 09:11 PM
  #46  
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http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...make/chevrolet

What about this turkey, pretty near the bottom of the page. Or am I just getting further away.

Feel like I'm fishing now. Set me straight.
Old 03-19-2014, 09:27 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by vettezobsezzed
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...make/chevrolet

What about this turkey, pretty near the bottom of the page. Or am I just getting further away.

Feel like I'm fishing now. Set me straight.
You won't like that cam. Go with a hydraulic roller to take advantage of your heads. You want bigger lift numbers, You want a 112 lsa with your compression.

EDIT: 32-34 Initial + Mechanical.

Last edited by 63mako; 03-19-2014 at 09:43 PM.
Old 03-19-2014, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
You won't like that cam. Go with a hydraulic roller to take advantage of your heads. You want bigger lift numbers, You want a 112 lsa with your compression.
Times two on the hydraulic roller, no worry about break in, more power, better vaccum, better throttle response. Sure it does cost more, well worth the extra money in my opinion besides you can reuse the lifters. I do think that the .060'' wall reduction is a little on the weak side, but doesn't mean that it won't last a summer. if it were me, I'd do it, but its your money.

Last edited by bluedawg; 03-19-2014 at 11:04 PM.
Old 03-20-2014, 01:00 AM
  #49  
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Slap it together and run it! If you're worried about it blowing up, wear a Kevlar vest when you drive it hard.

Scott
Old 03-20-2014, 01:25 AM
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Nah... Bareback only! Lol. Risk & reward right!

Me and my ideas. I'm really liking this idea more all the time. Pretty spendy tho, hopefully it's everything I envision. Never gonna figure this out until I turn these theories into practice
Old 03-20-2014, 01:40 AM
  #51  
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Poking around on the internet, I'm reading that it is not uncommon to see roundy-round boys running 400 SBCs at .060" over. They probably have the cylinder walls sonically checked, though. Is there any possibility that yours has been checked? Ya have to think that if someone bored it that far, they checked it out, and found that it was safe to do, but ya never know. Also, I guess the 400s have a rep for running hot, so make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. Good luck,

Scott
Old 03-20-2014, 01:43 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by vettezobsezzed
Nah... Bareback only! Lol. Risk & reward right!

Me and my ideas. I'm really liking this idea more all the time. Pretty spendy tho, hopefully it's everything I envision. Never gonna figure this out until I turn these theories into practice
If you go afr heads, roller cam and a 2400 or better stall, it will be more than you envision. If your hands dont start to tremble when at a stop light next to some wrx or such knowing that as soon as the light goes green, your going to mash the go pedal to the floor, then you dont have enough power. Caution, once it starts it dont end, next thing you know, your starting to plan a procharged 496" or 565".....

This wouldnt have happened if only you'd payed attention!

Last edited by bluedawg; 03-20-2014 at 01:47 AM.
Old 03-20-2014, 01:50 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Also, I guess the 400s have a rep for running hot, so make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. Good luck,Scott
My 400" runs 180f but it is built off an shp block.



This wouldnt have happened if only you'd payed attention!

Last edited by bluedawg; 03-20-2014 at 04:05 AM.
Old 03-20-2014, 06:40 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by vettezobsezzed
I don't think I'd be interested in having the heads ported, the wouldn't be that cheap, so no value gained there, I dunno. Maybe I'm back to the drawing board. I started re checking the profilers on eBay, then the total cost is a wash over the ones that are local to me. I did find a guy local that can get the profikers bare for $900 a pair, but I wasn't sure if the value was there either, I kinda like plug and play. And I'm not sure if that offer is still available.
Had I pulled the trigger at Xmas time, like I was gonna, at least the exchange would have helped a bit.
I assume you are familiar with JB's Power Centre? I bought my AFR 195's from them.
Old 03-20-2014, 10:13 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Poking around on the internet, I'm reading that it is not uncommon to see roundy-round boys running 400 SBCs at .060" over. They probably have the cylinder walls sonically checked, though. Is there any possibility that yours has been checked? Ya have to think that if someone bored it that far, they checked it out, and found that it was safe to do, but ya never know. Also, I guess the 400s have a rep for running hot, so make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. Good luck,

Scott
Use the gasket with the steam holes and drill the heads. Stock 400 needs them.
Old 03-20-2014, 12:16 PM
  #56  
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Another topic, I actually didn't intend to drill the heads, I'd read on here it wasn't neccessary unless it was in a truck application.

Definitely familiar with jbs, while I didn't get to meet the fella with the heads I cruised over to jbs to check out new ones, could save about $600 by going with the first guy, so I held off. They do keep stock in the city, how much or which ones I didn't get into, they said they could get me afr1034 by the end of the day$2000.
Old 03-20-2014, 12:28 PM
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Tempting as it was, to go with store bought AFR @$ 2000, hr cam&lfter, &rockers $1000. Bam $3000 and no wiggle room for setup.

I dunno, trying to be sensible, I get carried away easy, that video from earlier almost put me in the truck off to the city! If I toast this setup, the better half might not be so forgiving on popping another wad to start over mid summer, could cost me a corvette season.

Believe me I'm trying to weigh the options, my right foot is getting all cramped up thinking about it.

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Old 03-20-2014, 12:33 PM
  #58  
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I still have the882 heads with the steam holes, and they have the same 10k miles on them since overhaul. They are free, put that back together is only gonna cost me a head gasket. What would be a reasonable f/t cam be in this setup w/stoc heads? Realistically I could optimize this setup for about $500. Sidepipe$1100, wheels$1100, gets me some show, and a little go, under $3000
Old 03-20-2014, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Use the gasket with the steam holes and drill the heads. Stock 400 needs them.
You know I drilled steam holes in my afrs, as it would turn out, completely unnessicery for the shop block.
Old 03-20-2014, 12:58 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by vettezobsezzed
If I toast this setup, the better half might not be so forgiving on popping another wad to start over mid summer, could cost me a corvette season.
I get mine really drunk and thank her the next day for her idea to build the new engine. Works like a charm. $10,000 later when she complains, I remind her that it was her idea.

Last edited by bluedawg; 03-20-2014 at 01:00 PM.


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