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Power Brake Conversion Clevis Rod Length

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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:06 AM
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Default Power Brake Conversion Clevis Rod Length

I have searcehd and read and can't find the answer. I picked up a booster and master from NAPA to convert my '68 manual brakes to power. Everything is in but the holes in the clevis do not line up with holes in the pedal.(4-speed car). I used a donor clevis from a '79 auto car. The rod is smooth and I don't see any adjustment. I can't turn it in place because it is partially on the pedal arm. It falls short about 3/8" of lining up with the hole. What am I missing?
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Did you switch which hole on the brake pedal you put the Clovis yoke? You have to switch positions between the yoke and the brake light striker plate. You'll need a new striker plate as well.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Did you switch which hole on the brake pedal you put the Clovis yoke? You have to switch positions between the yoke and the brake light striker plate. You'll need a new striker plate as well.

Yes I did....well I tried. For the switch the clevis should go in the bottom hole but it falls short.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
Yes I did....well I tried. For the switch the clevis should go in the bottom hole but it falls short.
So much for an easy solution.

As I recall, the pushrod was threaded into the yoke and had some adjustment. I presume you've run it out as long as it will get?
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
So much for an easy solution.

As I recall, the pushrod was threaded into the yoke and had some adjustment. I presume you've run it out as long as it will get?
I don't know if it's all the way out. I was hoping for a solution to adjust it without having to remove the booster. It was a gem to get it the first time. I know I should have had enough sense to check it first but being the weekend knuckle buster that I am I did not.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
I don't know if it's all the way out. I was hoping for a solution to adjust it without having to remove the booster. It was a gem to get it the first time. I know I should have had enough sense to check it first but being the weekend knuckle buster that I am I did not.
Isn't that the truth

I was trying to find an old post where I went through much the same thing and could only find one about nearly going postal when I dropped the clevis pin and couldn't find it again. That bastich didn't reappear for a month. I'm not sure that post will solve your problem but I'll attach it if I can find it again. It may well have been on another forum.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Isn't that the truth

I was trying to find an old post where I went through much the same thing and could only find one about nearly going postal when I dropped the clevis pin and couldn't find it again. That bastich didn't reappear for a month. I'm not sure that post will solve your problem but I'll attach it if I can find it again. It may well have been on another forum.
Thanks. Anything you can add will help. I am about ready to go hydro boost!!
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
Thanks. Anything you can add will help. I am about ready to go hydro boost!!
Maybe the following will keep you from going that route:

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showth...?t=3764&page=3

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3578

Neither is the one that I was looking for but a lot of good and relevant information.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 09:41 AM
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This thread should help you:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...b-booster.html

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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Maybe the following will keep you from going that route:

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showth...?t=3764&page=3

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3578

Neither is the one that I was looking for but a lot of good and relevant information.

I was only kidding about the Hydroboost. I am already knee deep in the power conversion. I may be looking at something incorrectly. I reinstalled the brake light switch (68 only) and I assume the pedal should (at rest) be all of the way out against the rubber bumper stop. That leaves it just a little closer to the firewall than the clutch pedal. If I disregard this and install it where the clevis is it will be approximately 1/2" off of the bumper and will not rest against it. The pedals will also be very uneven. Maybe they are supposed to be. Should the pedal at test be against the stop. I just pulled the booster and the clevis does not appear to be adjustable. It turns and turns and turns and......
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 7t2vette
Great link! My69 obviously went through the same ordeal. His solution is different than I would have thought, but it seems to have worked perfectly.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
I was only kidding about the Hydroboost. I am already knee deep in the power conversion. I may be looking at something incorrectly. I reinstalled the brake light switch (68 only) and I assume the pedal should (at rest) be all of the way out against the rubber bumper stop. That leaves it just a little closer to the firewall than the clutch pedal. If I disregard this and install it where the clevis is it will be approximately 1/2" off of the bumper and will not rest against it. The pedals will also be very uneven. Maybe they are supposed to be. Should the pedal at test be against the stop. I just pulled the booster and the clevis does not appear to be adjustable. It turns and turns and turns and......
Your brake and clutch pedal definitely should be even.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 7t2vette

Well at least I'm not the Lone Ranger. That topic is exactly what I am going through. Thanks for the help.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Your brake and clutch pedal definitely should be even.

Thanks for all of the input. Hopefully I can get it right now.
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