except the propane torch which might not be enough, oxy/acetylene torch with a neutral flame works better. :cheers: 
Rear suspension help!(rust!!)
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 88
Likes: 2
From: Wyoming
Rear suspension help!(rust!!)
I've actually been fighting this crabbing problem on my vette for awhile now, and finally I just decided to replace the whole rear suspension and take it in for a good alignment. However, when I got to my passenger side and started to disassemble the rear, the Shock Mount with the strut rod is SOOOOO badly rusted, I can't get the thing out of the strut rod. I swung on that thing with a 10lbs. sledge hammer and did nothing more than ruin the mount. So now I'm afraid that I will mushroom it out if I swing at it anymore. I was wondering if any of you guys have any suggestions about how to get this off w/o pulling the whole trailing arm, etc. off and using a hydraulic press. I have a couple of idea's I'm going to employ tomorrow, but I'm not very optimisic. Below is a pic of the shock mount as it sits now. Thanks in advance!
El Seano
El Seano
Pro
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR.
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
Soak with penetrating oil for atleast 12 hours, then screw a nut or something over the threaded shank and hammer on it and on the surrounding ares to help free it.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Racer
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Lake Hughes CA
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
I'm not sure if there is a rubber bushing there or not, but if there isn't one, hit the mount with a torch and let it cool down again a couple times. Even a small propane torch would work fine. then soak it with a good rust eating oil a couple times a day for a couple days. And never pound on the threaded end of a bolt directly, put a nut on the end (to cover the threads) and pound on that.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
Man...I just did this last week...I used about a gallon of penetrating oil and a weeks worth of coming out, soaking the bolt, banging away at it until finally after 6 days it came free...totally ruined the piece though. I had flipped the castle nut around on the bolt and used it to bang on and compeletly flattened it, mushroomed the bolt and stripped the rest. I had to grind the bolt down to bang it through the hole with a punch before it would come out...I do reccomend buying new ones though, especially if your re doing you entire rear suspension. I was a little bummed about paying 100 bucks for 2 shock mounts, but their so nice and shiny it made it worthwhile :D
Good Luck
Jason
Good Luck
Jason
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 88
Likes: 2
From: Wyoming
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!)
Thanks for all the advice, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one that had to go through this :) Actually, I did put the nut back on the end, it just tore the threads out of the bolt and nut. Its like it's welded in there. I haven't budged it yet! I figured since I already need 1, might as well buy them both. I'll keep pounding on it, and when my order shows up at my door hopefully it'll be off. Thanks guys.
El Seano
El Seano
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: simpsonville sc
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
i had the same problem last winter but i ended up busting the rear bearing assemblie which cost me 500 bucks so be careful.i thought later that if i took a sawzaw and cut the shock mount on both sides of the strut rod and pulled it out of the assemblie it would have been cheaper then i could have used a tie rod puller to press the remaining part out of the strut rod.i think thats what i will try when i do the other side :smash:
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
Racer
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: olean ny usa
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
the bolt gets rusted into the metal sleeve in the strut rod... the quickest way to get the bolt out is to heat the @#$% out of it and pry the bolt out when the entire assembly gets red hot.
get the garden hose out and put out the small fire from the rubber bushing.. heat it up two or three times and the rubber will be burnt out.
BE CAREFUL!! this is the quickest, but not necessarily the safest
[Modified by tictocdok, 8:14 AM 7/18/2002]
get the garden hose out and put out the small fire from the rubber bushing.. heat it up two or three times and the rubber will be burnt out.
BE CAREFUL!! this is the quickest, but not necessarily the safest
[Modified by tictocdok, 8:14 AM 7/18/2002]
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
Just slide a sawzall down each side of the strut, done....no sense fighting it...
and upon reassemble, coat the inside of the sleeve and the crazy bolt shank with RTV, and then next time it comes apart with ease....
GENE :D
and upon reassemble, coat the inside of the sleeve and the crazy bolt shank with RTV, and then next time it comes apart with ease....
GENE :D
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,280
Likes: 0
From: colorado springs CO
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (mrvette)
hey if your replacing the whole rear suspension as you say, then DONT EVEN UNDO THAT JOINT!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
undo the other side of the strut rod and take the trailing arm out...
once out, im sure youll think of many ways to get them separated.
FIRE FIRE FIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIRRRRREEEEE
use an oxy acetylene torch and melt it all into a big blob!!
ohhh yaaeeeeaaahhh
fire fire fiiiireeeee :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil
undo the other side of the strut rod and take the trailing arm out...
once out, im sure youll think of many ways to get them separated.
FIRE FIRE FIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIRRRRREEEEE
use an oxy acetylene torch and melt it all into a big blob!!
ohhh yaaeeeeaaahhh
fire fire fiiiireeeee :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil :reddevil
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (daily_driver)
There is a tool to help with that job - you can get one from most of the suppliers or can make one yourself. Get another bolt (same diameter and thread as the mount) and nut. Screw the nut half-way onto the shock mount thread and the purchased bolt into the other end of the nut. Tighten well. Effectively you'll be using the nut to hold the two bolts end-to-end and when you whack the new bolt, the force will be transferred through the end of the bolt, not the threads.
If the threads are too badly gone, I'd try heat. Be careful though as there's gasoline back there... And soak the heck out of it with a good penetrating oil (I use PB Blaster).
good luck!
If the threads are too badly gone, I'd try heat. Be careful though as there's gasoline back there... And soak the heck out of it with a good penetrating oil (I use PB Blaster).
good luck!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
From: Palatine IL
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
What worked for me is to heat up the outer parts (strut and trailing arm mounts and then drip COLD water on just the shock mount and bang on it without hurting the threads. Repeat this a few times. The idea here is by cooling the shock mount it will contract faster than the outer parts allowing it to break free. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 1,360
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
Heat, penetrating fluid are good, however, just pounding on it won't always do the job.
The problem is the hub assembly is too "springy". The arm simply absorbs the shock of the hammer.
You need to place a large, solid object on the opposite side of the arm.
Like an anvil or a 10lb sledge hammer.
A couple of cracks with a large machine hammer and it will pop right out.
I never saw one that didn't let go.
You just can't provide enough "shock" to break it loose, unless you use
the anvil or sledge hammer on the opposite side of the arm. :smash:
The problem is the hub assembly is too "springy". The arm simply absorbs the shock of the hammer.
You need to place a large, solid object on the opposite side of the arm.
Like an anvil or a 10lb sledge hammer.
A couple of cracks with a large machine hammer and it will pop right out.
I never saw one that didn't let go.
You just can't provide enough "shock" to break it loose, unless you use
the anvil or sledge hammer on the opposite side of the arm. :smash:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,245
Likes: 4
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (Barry's70LT1)
Heat, penetrating fluid are good, however, just pounding on it won't always do the job.
The problem is the hub assembly is too "springy". The arm simply absorbs the shock of the hammer.
You need to place a large, solid object on the opposite side of the arm.
Like an anvil or a 10lb sledge hammer.
A couple of cracks with a large machine hammer and it will pop right out.
I never saw one that didn't let go.
You just can't provide enough "shock" to break it loose, unless you use
the anvil or sledge hammer on the opposite side of the arm. :smash:
The problem is the hub assembly is too "springy". The arm simply absorbs the shock of the hammer.
You need to place a large, solid object on the opposite side of the arm.
Like an anvil or a 10lb sledge hammer.
A couple of cracks with a large machine hammer and it will pop right out.
I never saw one that didn't let go.
You just can't provide enough "shock" to break it loose, unless you use
the anvil or sledge hammer on the opposite side of the arm. :smash:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 9,341
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (R. Bruno)
When we did my rear suspension about a year ago we had to cut mine off the car and completely replace the whole thing... But it sure rides nice now:)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 9
From: B'Ville NY
Cruise-In III Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (SharkByte)
There's a trick for breaking stuck bolts by heating up the bolt and then melting wax onto it. It's suppose to allow the wax to be drawn into the treads of the bolts to lubricate it and help it break free. I've never tried it, but maybe it could have some use here :confused: .
Good luck & be patience :cheers: .
Good luck & be patience :cheers: .
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 1
From: Boxford Mass
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (SmokedTires)
As soon as you heat that bolt, there's going to be melted rubber everywhere. My brother-in-law and I did it. Phew.
At that point, just smack. It'll pop right out.
BTW, don't touch that bolt for awhile :eek:
At that point, just smack. It'll pop right out.
BTW, don't touch that bolt for awhile :eek:
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 88
Likes: 2
From: Wyoming
Re: Rear suspension help!(rust!!) (ElSeano80)
Thanks for all the help everyone. I finally got it off today. Took a bit of doing, but after some rust eater and the trusty sledge hammer it finally popped out. Of course, this was after we cut the end off it, it had mushroomed out a bit. I didn't know anyone with a gas welder, so this was actually done without any heating at all. Now it's time to actually assemble the car back together :) Thanks again everyone.
El Seano
-1980 L48 Vette
-1993 Z28 M6
El Seano
-1980 L48 Vette
-1993 Z28 M6