Red Top Optima - Extremely Poor Quality





i have had only good results with the optima batteries i have had and do not know anyone that feels otherwise . there have been a couple that looked like idiots because the alternator was sketchy or bad cables etc.
i think the title of this thread should be edited as it may imply a very negative opinion that people won't bother to read further.
I'm a little bias because my life mostly revolves around fixing and maintaining things while the owner/operators have no clue and just want to complain and demand about something they know nothing about. It's amazing how when things are properly cared for how well they work and how long they can last.
Opps, I just went off on a rant. Sorry!
Doing some re search on the web I have found that people seem to be pleased using CTEK trickle Chargers. They have a Optima Battery mode just for these batteries. I don't know if it is really doing something different than other chargers or if its just letting you turn on a light that tells you want you want to see. I bought 4 of them and have been using them ever since. I have never had an issue since. I have 7 Red Tops that I can think of, I have them in Vettes, Trucks, Forklifts, and a Diesel Bobcat. Every thing I have sits for long periods of time when I leave for Alaska.
Probably my biggest complaint about them today is that Costco no longer sells them. They had a real good price on them and if I did something really stupid and managed to drain one down I could always count on them returning it with out so much as a glance to see if it was still red.


June 2009 I installed a new (same part number) battery.
The old battery still worked but I felt it might fail because of the age.
The AGM batteries cost twice as much and now you need a special charger.
June 2009 I installed a new (same part number) battery.
The old battery still worked but I felt it might fail because of the age.
The AGM batteries cost twice as much and now you need a special charger.
http://www.amazon.com/Optima-150-341.../dp/B009M3PQFA

Round 2 for my comments about using lead acid batteries and their incredible longevity in both my C3 and 94 Mustang GT Convertible which I had out today for the first time this year. Kirkland (Costco) battery-1998-still going strong. That's 16 Years!!!! Why in the world would someone pay $200 for a battery when a $70-80 will not only do but last 2-3 times as long-Beyond me…………..
I also have a Kirkland Costco battery in my 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix that I is driven daily all year round-temperatures under 0 degrees this past winter-6-7 years old now. Started and driven EVERY day-20,000-25,000 miles per year.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 19, 2014 at 05:53 PM.
If you can fully-charge your RedTop to about 12.6-12.8 volts and disconnect it from your car, it should hold close to that voltage level for 12-24 hours afterwards. If it holds voltage when disconnected, but drops voltage when connected, something in your car is discharging your battery. If it drops significant voltage during that timespan, even when it is completely disconnected from your car, there is probably an issue with your battery.
Una4dbl55, battery warranties are from the original date of purchase and do no re-set with each subsequent replacement. What type of maintainer were you using during the winter, that failed to keep your battery charged while it was in storage?
tak82, if you are using one of our batteries, I would totally disagree with the advice offered to you regarding proper voltage maintenance. Whenever any battery is discharged below 12.4 volts and is left sitting in that state, sulfation begins to form in the battery, which diminishes capacity and lifespan. That makes a quality battery maintenance device an excellent investment for any vehicle that doesn't see regular use. The main concern with battery maintainers is finding one that will not overcharge a battery. Most modern battery chargers that are microprocessor-controlled will not overcharge a battery.
I would also respectfully disagree with hugie82's advice regarding charging our batteries, as it could damage the battery, create a very dangerous situation and void the warranty. We do not recommend a charge rate that exceeds 10 amps. A group 34/78 RedTop is a 50Ah battery, so charging it at 200 amps for even 30 minutes would essentially dump 100Ah into a 50Ah box (assuming 100% efficiency with the charger). That is a really bad idea.
While some folks will differeniate between chargers and maintainers, they can both function the same way. Chargers tend to charge at a higher amperage rate (7+ amps) while maintainers tend to charge at a lower amperage rate (less than 5 amps). Maintainers can charge a battery, they just take longer to do it if they are operating at a lower amperage rate. Chargers can also maintain batteries properly, if they have maintenance modes built into them.
The parallel charging technique redvetracr was trying to link to is also described in this YouTube video- Tech Tips 3: How do I recover a deeply-discharged battery? - YouTube
4SPDL81, I'm glad to hear your RedTop has been working well for you for ten years. If you are concerned about how much longer it may last, you can always have it load-tested at a local auto parts retailer. Many will offer this service for free. Just be sure the battery is fully-charged to at least 12.6 volts before you have it tested. As for the warranty, if any battery is going to fail from a manufacturing defect, it will likely do so well within the first year of use, if not the first few weeks. Beyond that, battery lifespan is largely correlated to use and maintenance.
roscobbc, people buy RedTop batteries for a lot of different reasons. C5 owners like them, because their batteries are mounted directly above their PCM, which can be ruined if acid were to leak on them. Corvette owners with immaculate paint jobs like them for the same reason. In an honest moment, some red Corvette owners might admit they bought them to match their paint. Our batteries are designed to last up to twice as long as flooded products, which is a popular reason for many folks.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
I really appreciate your input and I received great information from the tech I spoke to when I called in. My situation is interesting in that I had taken the car out a couple of weeks ago and driven it a few times over a two week period. During that time it was not on my Battery Tender but the battery disconnect was disabled. On the Monday before it failed I cranked and moved the car and it seemed fine. I did not drive the car the rest of the week until Friday (4 days) when on the way to our Vette club. I discovered the battery was completely discharged to under 4 volt. I connected my charger that has the correct settings for the Optima (AGM) and it reported a bad battery after being connected a few minutes.
After connecting the new battery I used a Fluke 87 to test the drain on the battery. It is only pulling 25ma, based on one chart it shows that the battery should last 256 days before it would be discharged to a point of not starting. Typically I have the disconnect open so that completely takes away all question of the car draining the battery.
I have had the alternator checked at a real alternator shop and it is working well.
My Battery Tender Jr only puts out .75 amps. I do not plan to use it on the new battery and plan to purchase the Optima maintainer after the summer. Do you think this could have been the culprit?
Thanks again for your input, I think several of us have learned a few things about Optima Batteries. I hope to see the life out of this one that others are reporting.
i have had only good results with the optima batteries i have had and do not know anyone that feels otherwise . there have been a couple that looked like idiots because the alternator was sketchy or bad cables etc.
i think the title of this thread should be edited as it may imply a very negative opinion that people won't bother to read further.
That is a great idea, I did not realize you could change titles. I expect I will have much better success after replacing my Battery Tender Jr with the Optima maintainer. My back ground is electrical engineering (old school). I did not realize there was so much to know about batteries, never stop learning. I am going to dig in a little further, I would like to know what the differences are between a AGM maintainer. I assume a difference in the electronics and what triggers the unit to output. The standard maintainers put out a constant voltage which really just cooks a AGM. I am guessing the AGM units only put out when needed.
I saw on TV, ShipShape was the name of the show I believe, a while back where a tech explained that these batteries require more of a charge than the normal wet cell. He went on to say that if they were not maintained at full charge, it would shorten the battery's life. This may have been just for the yellow top, but I don't remember. Perhaps this is why the batteries returned were not fully charged. Maybe you could comment on this.
Not having watched the ShipShape show, it's difficult for me to comment on what was said by them. Based on your description, I would say none of our batteries require more of a charge than a flooded counterpart. Contrary to petes74ttop claim, in most instances, Optima batteries can be charged and maintained just as someone would with a flooded product- no special charger is needed. It is only when AGM batteries become deeply-discharged, that they may need a parallel charge, if the charging unit does not recognize or charge batteries discharged below a minimum voltage level. Any lead-acid battery that is discharged below 12.4 volts and is allowed to sit in that state will begin to sulfate, which diminishes both capacity and lifespan. That is true for any lead-acid battery, wet or dry.
TX-Techman, it sounds like you no longer have your old battery, but I would've been interested in knowing if it dropped significant voltage over 12-24 hours like you experienced, if it was totally disconnected from your car. When I had Brady Basner in from Powermaster Alternators to shoot a tech video, we discharged the battery on my '92 Silverado after we established baseline numbers. My YellowTop kept starting the engine, until we discharged it below 8.0 volts, so it is possible for deeply-discharged Optima batteries to keep turning an engine over even into the single digits. Less than 4 volts sounds very extreme though.
A typical battery, like our 34/78 RedTop is a 50Ah battery. If your vehicle has a 25-milliamp parasitic draw, that means it will discharge that battery at a rate of .6 amps per day (.025 x 24 hours). That would result in that battery being completely discharged in about 83 days. (50Ah/.6 amps). Those calculations assume the battery is in relatively good condition and fully-charged when the car is parked (most are not) and these timeframes can be shorter in hotter climates and longer in temperate climates. Most vehicles also need batteries that are well above a 0% state of charge to start. Even when batteries are completely disconnected from a vehicle, they will still have a small self-discharge rate, although AGM products will do a much better job of holding voltage over time, than a flooded product.
As for chargers, the best units are microprocessor-controlled and there are two basic types of maintenance chargers. Fully-automatic, “multi-stage or multi-step” chargers will monitor the battery and charge it as necessary. Multi-stage maintainers will charge at varying voltages and varying amperage (rarely exceeding 2 amps). Some of these multi-step chargers are also capable of being regular battery chargers (7 amps or more). These types of chargers are preferred.
Traditional “float” chargers provide constant voltage with tapering amperage to the battery, even when it is fully-charged. For float-charging, we recommend 1 amp max, 13.2-13.8 volts. These are OK too, but the multi-stage chargers are a better option.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts






Not having watched the ShipShape show, it's difficult for me to comment on what was said by them. Based on your description, I would say none of our batteries require more of a charge than a flooded counterpart. Contrary to petes74ttop claim, in most instances, Optima batteries can be charged and maintained just as someone would with a flooded product- no special charger is needed. It is only when AGM batteries become deeply-discharged, that they may need a parallel charge, if the charging unit does not recognize or charge batteries discharged below a minimum voltage level. Any lead-acid battery that is discharged below 12.4 volts and is allowed to sit in that state will begin to sulfate, which diminishes both capacity and lifespan. That is true for any lead-acid battery, wet or dry.
TX-Techman, it sounds like you no longer have your old battery, but I would've been interested in knowing if it dropped significant voltage over 12-24 hours like you experienced, if it was totally disconnected from your car. When I had Brady Basner in from Powermaster Alternators to shoot a tech video, we discharged the battery on my '92 Silverado after we established baseline numbers. My YellowTop kept starting the engine, until we discharged it below 8.0 volts, so it is possible for deeply-discharged Optima batteries to keep turning an engine over even into the single digits. Less than 4 volts sounds very extreme though.
A typical battery, like our 34/78 RedTop is a 50Ah battery. If your vehicle has a 25-milliamp parasitic draw, that means it will discharge that battery at a rate of .6 amps per day (.025 x 24 hours). That would result in that battery being completely discharged in about 83 days. (50Ah/.6 amps). Those calculations assume the battery is in relatively good condition and fully-charged when the car is parked (most are not) and these timeframes can be shorter in hotter climates and longer in temperate climates. Most vehicles also need batteries that are well above a 0% state of charge to start. Even when batteries are completely disconnected from a vehicle, they will still have a small self-discharge rate, although AGM products will do a much better job of holding voltage over time, than a flooded product.
As for chargers, the best units are microprocessor-controlled and there are two basic types of maintenance chargers. Fully-automatic, “multi-stage or multi-step” chargers will monitor the battery and charge it as necessary. Multi-stage maintainers will charge at varying voltages and varying amperage (rarely exceeding 2 amps). Some of these multi-step chargers are also capable of being regular battery chargers (7 amps or more). These types of chargers are preferred.
Traditional “float” chargers provide constant voltage with tapering amperage to the battery, even when it is fully-charged. For float-charging, we recommend 1 amp max, 13.2-13.8 volts. These are OK too, but the multi-stage chargers are a better option.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
And I've had ZERO problems with them.

And I can buy 4 of those batteries for the price of 1 Optima. Do you think that Optima is going to last 20 years? Sure doesn't sound like it judging by the comments here and in the other tech forums.
And I've had ZERO problems with them.

And I can buy 4 of those batteries for the price of 1 Optima. Do you think that Optima is going to last 20 years? Sure doesn't sound like it judging by the comments here and in the other tech forums.
Here are a few reasons for my decision.
No worries about the case rupturing and bleeding acid all over me or the car.
They are totally sealed (NO Vapors) to explode. However they can still explode under certain circumstances (over charging)
They can be mounted in any position (even upside down if you want)
http://www.carquestprofessionals.com...q_myths.html#8
AGM Batteries may not totally eliminate these risk but they do greatly reduce the risk. To me this is worth the extra $100.
I hope that from what I have learned since starting this thread will help extend my battery life greatly on the replacement I just got.
Here are a few reasons for my decision.
No worries about the case rupturing and bleeding acid all over me or the car.
They are totally sealed (NO Vapors) to explode. However they can still explode under certain circumstances (over charging)
They can be mounted in any position (even upside down if you want)
http://www.carquestprofessionals.com...q_myths.html#8
AGM Batteries may not totally eliminate these risk but they do greatly reduce the risk. To me this is worth the extra $100.
I hope that from what I have learned since starting this thread will help extend my battery life greatly on the replacement I just got.
I think I am going to buy another one this month for my 2008, they have a promotion to get the maintainer free for the month of April. I can then move the maintainer between the 69 and 08 as needed.
Last edited by TX-Techman; Apr 22, 2014 at 10:42 PM.
the replacement battery was 11 months old from time of purchase and 2 years 2 months old according to the "born on date" sticker, (sat on the shelf for over a year) I took it back to advance auto and she again tested it and mentioned it needed a charge, she told me she would charge it for half an hour then test it again, I received a call from her an hour and a half later stating that i could bring in the recipt and get the new exchange battery, thats the third one in just under 3 years,
I will admit I did not have any sort of charge on it over the winter, stored right next to my 80 corvette (with no charge either) in a heated garage, the battery in the corvette is a standard lead acid battery several years old and started no problem, the optima is in the 55 and the battery shut off was in off position, no parasitic drain,
when I charged the optima I did my home work and charged it as per Optima's suggestions, in parallel with a known good battery, 10 amps for as long as it takes to get the dead battery up to at least 10.5 volts then 1 amp till it is fully charged,
Battery would not come above 11.5 volts then drop down to just under 11 volts in a short time,
While I do like the optima batteries look and safety they're just too much trouble to maintain, I shouldn't have to babysit a battery all winter just to keep it in spec's, I wont buy another one until they resolve the issues I seem to have with them, maybe I'm just a lazy car guy?
AGM batteries ARE LEAD ACID BATTERIES. The risk of explosion is no different. But somehow you think the Optima is safer because it's sealed? If anything that makes it more prone to explosion not less. (bombs are really well sealed btw
)
Our batteries (and all lead-acid batteries) can vent gas that is both flammable and toxic in extreme situations, so we always recommend proper venting for any battery located in an enclosed area (interior or trunk). However, the chances of that happening with AGM batteries is far less than flooded batteries.
Una4dbl55, Optima batteries aren't that much different than flooded products in terms of the maintenance that should be performed on them- keep them fully-charged whenever possible and they'll last a long time. While a cut-off switch is a good idea, it works best when the battery is fully-charged. A battery that is already partially-discharged will still sulfate below 12.4 volts, even if it is disconnected from a car. I don't think you're a lazy car guy. After all, you went through the trouble and expense of storing your vehicles in a heated garage in Wisconsin. I don't know how much that runs you every winter, but I can guarantee you running a battery maintainer all winter long won't cost anywhere near as much.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
But either one would be a statistical outlier and is not particularly relevant to the discussion here.

Last edited by wcsinx; Apr 23, 2014 at 11:15 AM.
As for gassing, it's not a matter of my opinion as to why Optima batteries are less prone to gassing, but fact. Oxygen gas recombination in AGM designs in general, limits water loss. This is a feature that is lacking in wet products. Optima's grid alloy is also one of the most corrosion-resistant alloys in production. The high purity of the alloy and it's simple binary composition minimizes gas generation. Typical wet or flat-plate AGM batteries use grid alloys that contain three of four elements, which results in lower overall purity and gassing characteristics that are not as good as Optima's binary lead alloy. As a result, Optima batteries will have less corrosion at elevated temperatures and less water loss when compared to conventional wet or flat-plate AGM products.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries









