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Coil spring installation gone wrong.

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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 04:24 PM
  #21  
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Thank you GKULL for posting pics. It appears that they are not interesting enough for comments

Last edited by Oldguard 7; Apr 15, 2014 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 02:09 AM
  #22  
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I was away for the day working on another Vette. I would say that you got it slammed down nicely. that is if alignment and nothing touching down is alright.

I don't know how fast you drive or can drive where you live, but a lot of the problems of higher speed stability of Vettes is lack of rake front to rear. Air under the nose causes lift and cooling problems because of the air build up
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull

I don't know how fast you drive or can drive where you live, but a lot of the problems of higher speed stability of Vettes is lack of rake front to rear. Air under the nose causes lift and cooling problems because of the air build up
So if the car is level and then that would be a problem? I have a slight rake right now but wanted to get longer bolts for the rear spring to bring the back down slightly but if it's going to cause issues I can live with it.


Oldguard 7: your's looks about like mine, I like the way the front sits but I think the back needs to come down slightly, that is if it's not going to cause any issues, handling or otherwise.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 07:42 AM
  #24  
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http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/IMG_0808.jpg

Above is a photo taken from a CF search. It shows a stock spring on the left (9 coils) and a 550# on the right (7 coils). Most common replacement springs are 7 coils and approx. 460 lbs (they use thinner wire than the 550#). These 7 coil springs are shorter and much easier to replace (will slide in without being compressed). They will also lower ride height by 1 to 2 inches.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 09:42 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
So if the car is level and then that would be a problem? I have a slight rake right now but wanted to get longer bolts for the rear spring to bring the back down slightly but if it's going to cause issues I can live with it.


Oldguard 7: your's looks about like mine, I like the way the front sits but I think the back needs to come down slightly, that is if it's not going to cause any issues, handling or otherwise.
Rake is only one factor in front end lift. The later years of C-3's also limited the SQ inches of grill air intake and included chin spoilers. By the time C-5 C-6 Vettes came around you hardly have any SQ inches of grill area and the chin spoiler is very near the ground.

As to you lowering the rear............ Only testing to see at what point of rear lowering causes front end lift. Of course the slower you drive the less problems you will have.
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Rake is only one factor in front end lift. The later years of C-3's also limited the SQ inches of grill air intake and included chin spoilers. By the time C-5 C-6 Vettes came around you hardly have any SQ inches of grill area and the chin spoiler is very near the ground.

As to you lowering the rear............ Only testing to see at what point of rear lowering causes front end lift. Of course the slower you drive the less problems you will have.
Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 10:50 AM
  #27  
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AirborneSilva: You are right. I guess 10 inch bolts for the rear are next
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 07:42 PM
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Could you take another picture of just the front tire to get a better aspect of it? Include the wheel size, BS, and tire size
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldguard 7
Thank you GKULL for posting pics. It appears that they are not interesting enough for comments
I just saw the pix today. My concern is how much clearance will you have when you drive a twisty road in a spirited manner. To me it looks like you may have fender/tire contact. I hope not.
I also wonder if you got the springs fully seated in the pockets in the frame. If not, when the springs finally pop home, you will have a rake.

Pete
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
I just saw the pix today. My concern is how much clearance will you have when you drive a twisty road in a spirited manner. To me it looks like you may have fender/tire contact. I hope not.
I also wonder if you got the springs fully seated in the pockets in the frame. If not, when the springs finally pop home, you will have a rake.

Pete
I will see if there will be any issues you mentioned will come up once I put the rest of the front end together and drive it. As it sits now it does have a noticeable rake. Driving it will be the ultimate test.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 11:54 AM
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Better front end shot of the clearance. You need to post BS, wheel width, and tire size


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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #32  
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The front looks great



This the height I prefer with no rake, but I'm not racing at any speed that would cause front lift either.
For the rear I rebuilt the spring so I could use the stock length bolts.
Nothing hits and the suspension doesn't bottom.

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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 02:56 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by gkull
Better front end shot of the clearance. You need to post BS, wheel width, and tire size


I don't know what happened to the specs. I did put them in the email.

Front wheels/tires: 17x8.5 P245/45R17
2.75" wheel adapters, forgot the bs was when I installed them. I know that the wheel/tire combo does not stick out past the front fenders nor do I have any rubbing/turning issues prior to the installation of these new springs. I have not put the rest of the front end together (damaged threads on the ball stud on the drivers side outer tie rod end while separating from the steering knuckle)
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 11:19 PM
  #34  
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That is an easy replacement. I did all new everything including springs and a-arm bushings in one day. yes, it was a long day with an air hammer and lots of correct tools
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