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Dakota Digital VHX install

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Old May 20, 2014 | 01:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by AboveTheLogic
Want to rebuild mine while you're at it?
NOPE.

haha... and you are foolish to ask before seeing if I can even get mine back together!
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Old May 20, 2014 | 02:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hyteck9
Started pulling the engine, decided to redo that too!
Amazing how much gets undone with a "while your there". I did that with a broken exhaust manifold bolt and ended up with an LS engine.
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Old May 20, 2014 | 02:57 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by donnie1956
Amazing how much gets undone with a "while your there". I did that with a broken exhaust manifold bolt and ended up with an LS engine.
Wow, an LS conversion?

Nicely done.


I'm not going that far. I'm trying the Edelbrock RPM Power Package.

Besides, I like having at least one carbureted engine in the garage.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:25 AM
  #24  
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Engine is out. Also bought the zip-corvette total suspension kit.

Anyone want pics of this build too, or are we all experts on suspension and engines?

Last edited by hyteck9; May 23, 2014 at 10:50 AM.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #25  
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Pics, always!
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Old May 27, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AboveTheLogic
Pics, always!

OK, I am going to start a new thread for the engine rebuild and suspension, as it is off-topic.
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 05:59 AM
  #27  
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Hi,
Thank you for the write-up.
I'm planning a LS swap and am considering these gauges as well as I don't want to mess with Abbott boxes, different trans housings etc. As you I really would like to retain the red lenses in the center cluster (headlight warning and door ajar in my case).
How did you design yours to retain the lenses?
Drill the rear cover of the new VHX and clip on the existing lamp socket, reuse (cut, extend) the cardboard tunnels to seperate the light?
Thanks,
Nick
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 07:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dembo
Drill the rear cover of the new VHX and clip on the existing lamp socket, reuse (cut, extend) the cardboard tunnels to seperate the light?
Thanks,
Nick
HI Nick,

Nothing that complicated. The kit comes with "blackout pieces" that you have the option of laying in to prevent the light from shining threw, I just didn't use them on the one side that has the "gen" light.
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:02 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for the heads up
Nick
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 12:13 PM
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You are welcome!
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 03:28 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by hyteck9
You are welcome!
Some additional photos from my dakota digital VHX install
I'm running into the same small issues as Brian.
They still don't provide a fixation support for the tach to a A/C dash pad.

Idea nr 1 stolen :




As mentioned before the kit has block off plates for all the center console lenses. I used one for the 'fasten seat belt'. A) it's a natural reflex to wear it and B) it doesn't work as the seat belt interlock has been eliminated. I did wanted to keep my door ajar and headlight lens. Time to Dremel. I used the metal part from the original bezel so I don't have to wory about diameters and material thickness for the lamp sockets. Scrap ABS was used to close the box around the lamp to make it 'light tight'





[



This is the speed transducer to convert the mechanical rotation to a electrical speed signal.







Spend the last two days wiring but ran out of time. It's a very nice kit. I chose the black alloy with white backlight in km/h. (Mandatory that the gauge face shows it)
I'll post some pics next week when I'll be testing
Nick
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 08:09 PM
  #32  
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I'm considering these gauges. Happy with it so far? My understanding is that you basically replace all of the sensors and wiring with new stuff right? How difficult was it to redo all of that?
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 08:30 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Mcjoshin
I'm considering these gauges. Happy with it so far? My understanding is that you basically replace all of the sensors and wiring with new stuff right? How difficult was it to redo all of that?
The sensors were easy. The hardest part is removing the dash and cleaning up all the wires... most of which you won't need anymore.

Just take your time, and label everything.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #34  
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Very happy, all is working correctly, almost no battery drainage. I now notice that I'm running too cool (160F)
As Brian said, removing the dash and the small issues mentioned above during install aside, it's a very easy installation.
I went with the back face, white leds version.
Nick


Last edited by dembo; Mar 14, 2016 at 11:58 AM.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 02:00 PM
  #35  
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Hytech, I'm looking to do this as well. Great post and thanks for all the time to show us this. However, I can't see the pics in part 1. Were they taken down?
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 10:25 AM
  #36  
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Hyteck9, You mentioned this comment about the Tach Filter:

NOTE: We realized the tach filter near the distributor was preventing the control box from picking up the ignition signal for the tach and bypassed it.

Can you elaborate on what this is (part of the kit or existing part in car)? I'm starting my install next week and this looked pretty critical to understand.

Thanks!!!!
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #37  
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It was an existing part of the car. It dropped the inductance to correlate with the factory gauge ohms rating.

We simply didn't use it.

(Looked a lot like a isolation transformer.)
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 10:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dembo
Very happy, all is working correctly, almost no battery drainage. I now notice that I'm running too cool (160F)
As Brian said, removing the dash and the small issues mentioned above during install aside, it's a very easy installation.
I went with the back face, white leds version.
Nick

Hi Dembo. I am considering the black face/red numbers gauges for our '79, but those white numbers look really good. Can they be dimmed with the headlight switch or is the dimmer switch on the website a must.

Chappie
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 09:31 AM
  #39  
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Hi Chappie,

The dimming doesn't work with our headlight switch so yes you'll have to use their switch. On the other hand, the light intensity can be changed from the menu (both day and night time). I only set them once and never feel the need to change the setting.

Nick

PS If I woud do this again, I'd wait for the new HDX version (when it comes out for the Corvette). You can see it them on the Camaro page http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...od/prd1042.htm

Last edited by dembo; Dec 11, 2016 at 09:34 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dembo
Hi Chappie,

The dimming doesn't work with our headlight switch so yes you'll have to use their switch. On the other hand, the light intensity can be changed from the menu (both day and night time). I only set them once and never feel the need to change the setting.

Nick

PS If I woud do this again, I'd wait for the new HDX version (when it comes out for the Corvette). You can see it them on the Camaro page http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...od/prd1042.htm
Ok, thanks. I looked at the HDX gauges, but didn't spend much time looking at them since I didn't see them listed for our car.

Right now we're trying to decide on whether to go with white numbers or red numbers. The red would look pretty cool since the interior is red.

Chappie
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