Here is the deal. I get the tell tale signs that the alternator took a dive. 0 volts and the idiot light on. I shut off my running lights and the clock on the radio (no music was on anyway) and get home. The alternator is fine and so is the battery though. My power windows don't work and the voltage gauge won't budge, even if checking battery voltage. My tach doesn't work either. The car will start right up without trouble just like before though. I no longer get any warning lights to turn on when I turn the key to that stage. The blower kicks on, but the warning lights do not. Is there something in the voltage guage that when it reads low kills the power windows? Is there a loose ground that caused all this? Or did I just blow a ton of fuses? I have senior pictures on Tuesday and need to get the car good to go by then.

 

I just went through almost the same thing with my wifes car it was the altenator..diodes I thing was putting out AC instead of DC it killed the battery in 2 days and fried a window switch and computor,and blew out 3 bulbs.Originaly the muti-meter showed a good battery and the voltage showed that it was charging but was told that was the problem,replaced the Alt. and everything has been fine since

 

From what you say, it's the ignition switch....maybe an adjustment, but drop the steering column and try fiddleing with it first...

GENE

 

Really, the ignition? How can that be? Well, I can see how it could be since I don't need a key to start the car but don't tell anyone else that. I really do not want to work with a T&T column though. I guess that cylinder needs to be replaced anyway.... grr. My '77 Chevy Passenger Car shop manual has all the info I need for this, right? And what exactly will I need to replace? Just the key cylinder, or more? I probably need a steering wheel puller also, huh?


[Modified by Schmucker, 3:40 AM 7/20/2002]

 

Man, I really think you are right. When I turn that key I should get those lights, the voltage guage, and my power windows. I do get my radio and blower though. Hmm. But how do I get a replacement cylinder that fits my key and how much will that run me?


[Modified by Schmucker, 12:43 AM 7/20/2002]

 

So, is this what I'll need?

Switch,Ignition w/TT,69-82

Will I also need new keys then or can it be keyed to my current ones?

 

UH, You are under a rather large mis conception there, the ignition switch in late GM wheels is a two piece affair, the electrical portion is on top of the column down under near the floorboard, putposely hidden by the mounting hardware, and burried rather deep, you have a super hard time even SEEING it let along working on it, gotta drop the column...no choice...loosten the two bolts on the floorboard flange, drop the two 9/16 capped bolts on the butterfly wings flange near the removeable center cover underneath, and maybe have to pull the rag joing bolts loose...just the two on the joint itself, NOT anything ona spline shaft...that allows the wheel to rest on the seat, at that time you can get up under there and see the ignition switch electrical parts...
NOW sometimes if you get lucky on the top left there are two 5/16 bolts up there on a flange, sometimes if they are loose or something slipped, you can readjust the electrical switch to agree more with the key switch positiions...
but somehow, I suspect your electrical switch is burned, that maybe from being out of adjustment also, not really making solid contact....commom item in stores....as is the lock cylinder....

you get into that column for the key switch, you might as well pull the whole damn thing out of the car at this point, and do it on a bench....just plain simpler, won't kill yourself over it....

GENE

 

Yeah, I guess so. I need to drop/pull the column anyway to replace my dash lights. I tried once and failed, but now I know how it goes. I didn't get far. This problem arrived on Thursday. I mess under my dash on Tuesday. I drove it a bit on Wednesday. Possible that I could have broken this? I did get that far down. Grr. This problem has gotten too big and I'll need to drive the car 15 minutes to our farm where our shop is, then somehow get back into town.