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Alright so I have a 1969 Coupe with a matching numbers 350 in it.
The car was passed down to me from my father not to long ago and i've been restoring in the last year or so in his memory ! It's been a great project but without him around I have had a couple of problems figuring out certain things. The engine was rebuilt a while ago ( my mom cannot even remember when ) and so when I was doing the points and timing I could not set it properly. It would run bad and choppy when at stock specifications, even when I adjusted the carb. When I set it far advanced above TDC, it worked A LOT better. My friends father said that when he had cams in one of his cars back in the day, he had to do timing similar.
I know I sound like an beginner ( but I am ) and so whats the difference of how the 350 would be stock and how it would be with "cams" I am confused on this because I guess I had a different idea of what cakes were. anyone have an opinion on this ? is this a common thing that was done to rebuilt 350's?
Pulling a valve cover and putting a gauge on there to measure the lift will give you a good idea if it's a hot cam. With that said, I'm more concerned with the timing mark being off on the homonic balancer. If it's the old original, it probably slipped a little and now the marks are useless. So turn it until it runs it's best for now. As you build knowledge this stuff will be easier to explain.
If it's a hot cam, your idle will be around 800-900 rpm, maybe higher if you have a manual trans. Good luck and there is no stupid questions on here but most of us would like to see you get the manual out
all cars have a cam... some more than one.... but our 350's have only 1... when your friend talked about cam'ing it, what they mean is they put in a more aggressive cam with a higher lift on the valves and a longer duration... you need to move the #1 piston to top dead center (remove spark plug drivers side front) when the piston is TDC on compression stroke, not exhaust which is 180* out (360* for a full cycle) your timing mark should be on "0" on the harmonic balancer. if it is not... it has slipped and needs to be replaced. of it is at 0, then you can start proper timing as long as you have a timing light and a 9/16 wrench to loosen the distributor.
points? throw them away and get an HEI or a Mallory unilight... imho
Pulling a valve cover and putting a gauge on there to measure the lift will give you a good idea if it's a hot cam. With that said, I'm more concerned with the timing mark being off on the homonic balancer. If it's the old original, it probably slipped a little and now the marks are useless. So turn it until it runs it's best for now. As you build knowledge this stuff will be easier to explain.
If it's a hot cam, your idle will be around 800-900 rpm, maybe higher if you have a manual trans. Good luck and there is no stupid questions on here but most of us would like to see you get the manual out
Thanks !! Everyone on the forum seem to be friendly and know their stuff (best kind of lifestyle choice)
all cars have a cam... some more than one.... but our 350's have only 1... when your friend talked about cam'ing it, what they mean is they put in a more aggressive cam with a higher lift on the valves and a longer duration... you need to move the #1 piston to top dead center (remove spark plug drivers side front) when the piston is TDC on compression stroke, not exhaust which is 180* out (360* for a full cycle) your timing mark should be on "0" on the harmonic balancer. if it is not... it has slipped and needs to be replaced. of it is at 0, then you can start proper timing as long as you have a timing light and a 9/16 wrench to loosen the distributor.
points? throw them away and get an HEI or a Mallory unilight... imho
Is there a way to tell what kind of cam you have without taking everything ( timing cover, water pump etc.) off? and you are deffinetly right about the mark probably just being off because it was advanced at the top when it ran good !
Is there a way to tell what kind of cam you have without taking everything ( timing cover, water pump etc.) off? and you are deffinetly right about the mark probably just being off because it was advanced at the top when it ran good !
you can measure lift with a dial gauge and mount with the valve covers off.. it will be close, and as far as duration it would be difficult, probably could get a somewhat idea with good markings on the HB and the file gauge,, but a lot of work and not very accurate. Maybe someone else base a better idea,,
The only way to check what you have is to get a degree wheel kit.
Comp cams and Summit Racing have detailed instructions on their web sites for these kits.With these kits you can check intake centerline,valve opening and closing,lsa etc.. I believe you'll have to remove some components as you previously stated.I guess you'll have to decide if it is
worth the effort.
Alright so I have a 1969 Coupe with a matching numbers 350 in it.
The car was passed down to me from my father not to long ago and i've been restoring in the last year or so in his memory ! It's been a great project but without him around I have had a couple of problems figuring out certain things. The engine was rebuilt a while ago ( my mom cannot even remember when ) and so when I was doing the points and timing I could not set it properly. It would run bad and choppy when at stock specifications, even when I adjusted the carb. When I set it far advanced above TDC, it worked A LOT better. My friends father said that when he had cams in one of his cars back in the day, he had to do timing similar.
I know I sound like an beginner ( but I am ) and so whats the difference of how the 350 would be stock and how it would be with "cams" I am confused on this because I guess I had a different idea of what cakes were. anyone have an opinion on this ? is this a common thing that was done to rebuilt 350's?
Yes, it is common to have to advance the timing for a hot cam at idle. Give the engine what it wants. Check total timing, keep it around 36* or less. That's the max timing without the vacuum connected while you increase the rpm until the timing stops advancing.
Do a search on this subject you'll find what you're looking for.
You should post where you live, someone may live close by and can come over and help you. It's hard to diagnois a problem when the person doesn't know the basics. (No offence meant to you at all)
Guys here really like to help.....