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Timing Cover Removal Question

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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 07:42 AM
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Default Timing Cover Removal Question

Harmonic balancer needs replacement, and while I'm there, want to replace the timing cover seal.
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Harmonic balancer needs replacement, and while I'm there, want to replace the timing cover seal.
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
No oil will drip. Some say you need to drop the pan. I have done it without dropping the pan. The crank 'O" seal punches out and is easy to install. The lower timing chain cover seal is the pain part. What I did is loosened off the front bolts on the oil pan. I put the horse shoe gasket on the cover and installed cover with out the lower seal. I put it on loosely. I then oiled up the lower seal, crawled under the car and pushed it into the one side of the timing chain cover with a dull screw driver, then pushed the other side in. Sealed where the lower meets the oil pan gasket with liquid gasket.

One thing always leads into another though.....why not change the timing chain while you have it off?
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 08:39 AM
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+1 on replacing the timing chain (and gears). With the TC cover off, a portion of the oil pan will be open so keep this area very clean and be careful not to drop anything into the pan. Place a clean rag over the open area to prevent foreign mater from falling in. I would then change the oil and filter when the job is complete.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Harmonic balancer needs replacement, and while I'm there, want to replace the timing cover seal.
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?

Thanks in advance.

Steve
If it doesn't leak now then I would leave it alone. Replace the harmonic balancer and be done with it. Make sure you put a little grease on the seal and the balancer before you put the new balancer on.
Do yourself a favor and heat that replacement balancer to 250*F in the oven before attempting to install it.

You'll need to take off the water pump, fan assembly and drain your water too, in order to get the timing chain cover off.
All associated gaskets will have to be replaced. Does the pan leak now? It might when you get done if you disturb it.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
If it doesn't leak now then I would leave it alone.
My sentiments exactly. Everything down there (oil pan, and tranny pan too) are as tight as a drum.

Replace the harmonic balancer and be done with it.


Make sure you put a little grease on the seal and the balancer before you put the new balancer on.
Do yourself a favor and heat that replacement balancer to 250*F in the oven before attempting to install it.
For ease of installation I take it.

You'll need to take off the water pump, fan assembly and drain your water too, in order to get the timing chain cover off.
All associated gaskets will have to be replaced.
Yup. Indeed they would be.

Does the pan leak now?
Not a drop.

It might when you get done if you disturb it.
I know it would!
Thanks for all the ideas guys. 67K on the odometer.

Steve

Last edited by Cavu2u; Apr 30, 2014 at 01:11 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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For ease of installation I take it.
No. To insure that on start up the seal is not running against a dry surface where it seals on the harmonic balancer. ]
If it's dry you will be replacing the seal soon.

If you want to use oil on the inner diameter of the balancer or the snout of the crank that's ok, but not grease.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
No. To insure that on start up the seal is not running against a dry surface where it seals on the harmonic balancer. ]
If it's dry you will be replacing the seal soon.

If you want to use oil on the inner diameter of the balancer or the snout of the crank that's ok, but not grease.
Gottcha.

Heat & cold is a trick I use to install wheel bearings into the hub on motorcycles. The bearings go into the freezer for a while, and the hub get a good dose of propane torch flame just before insertion. They often drop right in with hardly any hammering of the outer race needed.

I was thinking since the balancer is such a tight fit over the crank, the heat expanded balancer would push on a bit easier.

Steve

Last edited by Cavu2u; Apr 30, 2014 at 05:46 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Gottcha.

Heat & cold is a trick I use to install wheel bearings into the hub on motorcycles. The bearings go into the freezer for a while, and the hub get a good dose of propane torch flame just before insertion. They often drop right in with hardly no hammering of the outer race needed.

I was thinking since the balancer is such a tight fit over the crank, the heat expanded balacer would push on a bit easier.

Steve
Sorry I read that wrong. Yeah your right, heat to get it on easier. I read it like you put grease on it to get it on the crank easier.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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67,xxx on the odometer is about the right time to replace the original timing chain and gears. You don't want that plastic covered cam gear to go out all the way, and since you are most of the way there with the balancer off???
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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It's easier to loosen the oil pan bolts and pry the oil pan down some in order to get the timing cover back in, I've done it both ways and snipping the ears on the timing cover works too, but it's more likely to leak. You can replace the front seal with out moving the timing cover, but it wouldn't hurt change the ting chain and gears.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 10:22 PM
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Yeah....

that's why I mentioned the milage; get a feel of what some may think of the wear factor of those timing parts. 41 years, 66K miles; I'll make it a clean sweep. Remove the cover. Drop the pan (I have a stud kit that I was going to put in next oil change anyway). Do it all, once.

Thanks guys.
Steve
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Old May 1, 2014 | 01:56 AM
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IF you don't decide to drop the oil pan and just remove the timing chain cover here are the tricks to getting it back on. You will need to trim the ears on the horseshoe gasket but behind the transition line on the gasket, look close you will see it. Put the gasket on the timing chain cover itself with a little silicone and let dry. Place the horseshoe gasket on the cover inserting the rubber placement nipples in firmly then put a little oil on the bottom of gasket and pan. Put a little silicone at the back corner of where the cover meets the oil pan and block. Place the cover in position and then take two center punches and place them right above the insets in the cover. Push down evenly and firmly and the cover will pop right into place.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 68Thunder427
IF you don't decide to drop the oil pan and just remove the timing chain cover here are the tricks to getting it back on. You will need to trim the ears on the horseshoe gasket but behind the transition line on the gasket, look close you will see it. Put the gasket on the timing chain cover itself with a little silicone and let dry. Place the horseshoe gasket on the cover inserting the rubber placement nipples in firmly then put a little oil on the bottom of gasket and pan. Put a little silicone at the back corner of where the cover meets the oil pan and block. Place the cover in position and then take two center punches and place them right above the insets in the cover. Push down evenly and firmly and the cover will pop right into place.
That's pretty much the other way, most times it goes in alright and some times it's a real pita, fights ya all the way. First time I did it that way, I was in high school, stayed up all Sunday night fighting it, got it a 5:30 in the morning took a shower and went to school. There was no way in hell I was going to ride the bus. Sure don't miss the days of fighting something on an old vehicle so that I could drive to school or make it cruising on Friday night... or maybe I miss the cruising on Friday night's.

Last edited by bluedawg; May 1, 2014 at 02:22 AM.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
That's pretty much the other way, most times it goes in alright and some times it's a real pita, fights ya all the way.
I would expect nothing else other than that!



Good trick to know 427.
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