Timing Cover Removal Question
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Timing Cover Removal Question
Harmonic balancer needs replacement, and while I'm there, want to replace the timing cover seal.
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Aurora Ontario
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Harmonic balancer needs replacement, and while I'm there, want to replace the timing cover seal.
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
One thing always leads into another though.....why not change the timing chain while you have it off?
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Wellington, FL
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
+1 on replacing the timing chain (and gears). With the TC cover off, a portion of the oil pan will be open so keep this area very clean and be careful not to drop anything into the pan. Place a clean rag over the open area to prevent foreign mater from falling in. I would then change the oil and filter when the job is complete.
#4
Le Mans Master
Harmonic balancer needs replacement, and while I'm there, want to replace the timing cover seal.
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Well, wouldn't it be easier to R&R that seal with the cover removed. The cover does not leak now, so I hate to disturbe it.
Well, if I have to remove the cover, is the crankcase oil level below the cover, or do I have to drain a little oil to prevent a mess when the cover comes off? Or does the pan have to be dropped in order for the timing cover to come off?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
Do yourself a favor and heat that replacement balancer to 250*F in the oven before attempting to install it.
You'll need to take off the water pump, fan assembly and drain your water too, in order to get the timing chain cover off.
All associated gaskets will have to be replaced. Does the pan leak now? It might when you get done if you disturb it.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If it doesn't leak now then I would leave it alone.
My sentiments exactly. Everything down there (oil pan, and tranny pan too) are as tight as a drum.
Replace the harmonic balancer and be done with it.
Make sure you put a little grease on the seal and the balancer before you put the new balancer on.
Do yourself a favor and heat that replacement balancer to 250*F in the oven before attempting to install it.
For ease of installation I take it.
You'll need to take off the water pump, fan assembly and drain your water too, in order to get the timing chain cover off.
All associated gaskets will have to be replaced.
Yup. Indeed they would be.
Does the pan leak now?
Not a drop.
It might when you get done if you disturb it.
I know it would!
My sentiments exactly. Everything down there (oil pan, and tranny pan too) are as tight as a drum.
Replace the harmonic balancer and be done with it.
Make sure you put a little grease on the seal and the balancer before you put the new balancer on.
Do yourself a favor and heat that replacement balancer to 250*F in the oven before attempting to install it.
For ease of installation I take it.
You'll need to take off the water pump, fan assembly and drain your water too, in order to get the timing chain cover off.
All associated gaskets will have to be replaced.
Yup. Indeed they would be.
Does the pan leak now?
Not a drop.
It might when you get done if you disturb it.
I know it would!
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; 04-30-2014 at 01:11 PM.
#6
Le Mans Master
For ease of installation I take it.
If it's dry you will be replacing the seal soon.
If you want to use oil on the inner diameter of the balancer or the snout of the crank that's ok, but not grease.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No. To insure that on start up the seal is not running against a dry surface where it seals on the harmonic balancer. ]
If it's dry you will be replacing the seal soon.
If you want to use oil on the inner diameter of the balancer or the snout of the crank that's ok, but not grease.
If it's dry you will be replacing the seal soon.
If you want to use oil on the inner diameter of the balancer or the snout of the crank that's ok, but not grease.
Heat & cold is a trick I use to install wheel bearings into the hub on motorcycles. The bearings go into the freezer for a while, and the hub get a good dose of propane torch flame just before insertion. They often drop right in with hardly any hammering of the outer race needed.
I was thinking since the balancer is such a tight fit over the crank, the heat expanded balancer would push on a bit easier.
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; 04-30-2014 at 05:46 PM.
#8
Le Mans Master
Gottcha.
Heat & cold is a trick I use to install wheel bearings into the hub on motorcycles. The bearings go into the freezer for a while, and the hub get a good dose of propane torch flame just before insertion. They often drop right in with hardly no hammering of the outer race needed.
I was thinking since the balancer is such a tight fit over the crank, the heat expanded balacer would push on a bit easier.
Steve
Heat & cold is a trick I use to install wheel bearings into the hub on motorcycles. The bearings go into the freezer for a while, and the hub get a good dose of propane torch flame just before insertion. They often drop right in with hardly no hammering of the outer race needed.
I was thinking since the balancer is such a tight fit over the crank, the heat expanded balacer would push on a bit easier.
Steve
#9
Le Mans Master
67,xxx on the odometer is about the right time to replace the original timing chain and gears. You don't want that plastic covered cam gear to go out all the way, and since you are most of the way there with the balancer off???
#10
Safety Car
It's easier to loosen the oil pan bolts and pry the oil pan down some in order to get the timing cover back in, I've done it both ways and snipping the ears on the timing cover works too, but it's more likely to leak. You can replace the front seal with out moving the timing cover, but it wouldn't hurt change the ting chain and gears.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yeah....
that's why I mentioned the milage; get a feel of what some may think of the wear factor of those timing parts. 41 years, 66K miles; I'll make it a clean sweep. Remove the cover. Drop the pan (I have a stud kit that I was going to put in next oil change anyway). Do it all, once.
Thanks guys.
Steve
that's why I mentioned the milage; get a feel of what some may think of the wear factor of those timing parts. 41 years, 66K miles; I'll make it a clean sweep. Remove the cover. Drop the pan (I have a stud kit that I was going to put in next oil change anyway). Do it all, once.
Thanks guys.
Steve
#12
IF you don't decide to drop the oil pan and just remove the timing chain cover here are the tricks to getting it back on. You will need to trim the ears on the horseshoe gasket but behind the transition line on the gasket, look close you will see it. Put the gasket on the timing chain cover itself with a little silicone and let dry. Place the horseshoe gasket on the cover inserting the rubber placement nipples in firmly then put a little oil on the bottom of gasket and pan. Put a little silicone at the back corner of where the cover meets the oil pan and block. Place the cover in position and then take two center punches and place them right above the insets in the cover. Push down evenly and firmly and the cover will pop right into place.
#13
Safety Car
IF you don't decide to drop the oil pan and just remove the timing chain cover here are the tricks to getting it back on. You will need to trim the ears on the horseshoe gasket but behind the transition line on the gasket, look close you will see it. Put the gasket on the timing chain cover itself with a little silicone and let dry. Place the horseshoe gasket on the cover inserting the rubber placement nipples in firmly then put a little oil on the bottom of gasket and pan. Put a little silicone at the back corner of where the cover meets the oil pan and block. Place the cover in position and then take two center punches and place them right above the insets in the cover. Push down evenly and firmly and the cover will pop right into place.
Last edited by bluedawg; 05-01-2014 at 02:22 AM.