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Dash Brake light stays on

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Old May 10, 2014 | 10:10 PM
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Default Dash Brake light stays on

'80 L48/4spd

Just changed the front brake lines and flushed plenty of new fluid through. No more bubbles. Fluid is full, pedal feels fine, brakes work fine.

BUT dash BRAKE light stays on.

Any idea where to start and what to check?
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Old May 10, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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You mean the emergency brake light? Not sure what changed doing a brake job, but that light is activated by a switch under the e-brake handle, inside the console.
Easy to access
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Old May 10, 2014 | 11:30 PM
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If it isn't the E brake light then I am not sure if a 1980 has the brake warning sensor made into the front distribution block like the older C3's or not but they are very sensitive to air bubbles. You may try to lightly tap on the distribution block right below the master cylinder with a hard plastic hammer and the master cylinder cap off. You might also try pumping the brakes briskly / pushing hard and fast to get the bubble to move.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by AR vet
'80 L48/4spd

Just changed the front brake lines and flushed plenty of new fluid through. No more bubbles. Fluid is full, pedal feels fine, brakes work fine.

BUT dash BRAKE light stays on.

Any idea where to start and what to check?
You can also try driving the vehicle at about 35 mph and slam on the brake pedal. Light should go off.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:23 AM
  #5  
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The piston in your proportioning valve is not centered. Purchase this tool, follow the directions and bleed your brakes again. No more light glaring in your eyes.

http://www.performanceonline.com/Com...ve-Bleed-Tool/
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:30 AM
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Default thegazman

Originally Posted by Street Rat
The piston in your proportioning valve is not centered. Purchase this tool, follow the directions and bleed your brakes again. No more light glaring in your eyes.

http://www.performanceonline.com/Com...ve-Bleed-Tool/
I just went through the same thing with my "79". The problem I had was the piston in my distribution/proportioning valve was stuck. I installed a new valve and bought this centering tool to use while I bled the brakes. Everything good now.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Default Thanks !!

Thanks for all the replies !!

I will get that ordered. Figured it was something simple.

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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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Ordered the tool mentioned above. The directions say to "center" the piston and on the low pressure mechanism..

How do you do that or how will you know when to screw the bleed valve in?

Thanks
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 08:40 AM
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In my circumstances I simply had to pump the pedal until the light went off. I figured that the valve was centered when the light wasn't lit. You may have to crack open a bleeder valve and slowly push the pedal down until the light goes off. Then you can insert the tool and proceed with your brake bleeding. I hope that helps some. The brakes systems on these cars are a pain in the a$$.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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Default thegazman

"Sometimes" the problem is the valve is stuck due to gunk build up from the brake fluid over the years. You may have to take the distribution/proportioning valve off and clean it.
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