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81 rear defrost

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Old May 12, 2014 | 06:01 PM
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Default 81 rear defrost

was able to locate a original rear defrost switch from another forum member, received it and figured that I would open my original one apart and see if I could fix it when I had it out I heard a rattle and the only thing wrong with mine was that the light did not work, so after I opened it I found the original bulb and attempted to re solder it back to board after checking that it would still light up and it did. so after failing at getting it to reconnect, I picked up a new bulb from Napa, and soldered that on the board and it works, but its above 80 degrees here today and it wont stay on, I never tried it when it was this warm, is that why it doesn't stay on, or did I damage the board can anyone try theirs in a 81-82 of if you have before and it wont stay on when its that warm could you let me know
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Old May 12, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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I live in Georgia and it could be 95 degrees outside and mine stays on for about 15 to 20 minutes then goes off. Its a 1980.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 06:20 PM
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the 80 is a different switch, not sure if its the same mechanically inside or not?
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Old May 12, 2014 | 06:24 PM
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Your defrost switch is not going to have a thermostat in it. So it's not going to be able to determine what the temperature is outside. It should work similar to the 1980. You turn it on and it stays for a little while and then goes off.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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your right I should know better I guess it was wishing thinking, tried the other switch I had that has no light and it stays on, so swapped the light and its working right now, I will test it over the next few weeks and see if it stays working
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Old May 12, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Hope it works out for you.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 05:21 AM
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Posted in your other thread... Just tested mine, it stayed on for 2:50 before kicking off..
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Old May 13, 2014 | 05:46 AM
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Out of the 2 switches I have I got one too work. And stays on for 15 minutes or so but now the problem is it only works if you push on the plug connection, not sure if it's pushing the board over to make a good connection to the top of the switch or if the problem is in the 4 blades that plug into the harness, I tried both tops and that doesn't make a real difference
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Old May 14, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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finally fixed the switch, resoldered the four main blades and fixed all the connections, and it works perfect just like it did when it was new
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Old May 14, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by chrisNY
finally fixed the switch, resoldered the four main blades and fixed all the connections, and it works perfect just like it did when it was new

Good job
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Old May 14, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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defiantly worth the effort to fix the original, if you are handy with a soldering iron and good with a meter, still cant get the second one to stay on, but I am sure if I only had the one to work with its fixable, there is a small coil that heats up and turns the switch off, I think that is were the problem is with it, but I stopped trying to repair after I got the first one working the way it should
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