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Changing out my clutch which way to remove Hurst shifter? Bracket and all or just the Shifter I just don't want to make bigger problems like winding up with a pile of levers. I've taken out the two at the bottom and looks like two more pretty hidden up in there.
Since no one else responded, I'll put up my 2 cents. I've never worked on a Hurst, but with the GM shifter, in order to rotate and push the trans back far enough to clear the bellhousing, the entire unit has to be removed from the bottom. It's a small job and a lot of room is gained. You don't want to get the trans half way out and realize that the shifter has to be removed-then you've got the trans balanced and twisted around.
On a Hurst you should be able to take the rods loose at the trans levers and then remove the two or three bolts that hold the shifter to the tailshaft. If needed, the shifter handle should come off from the top by removing the bolt(s) that attach it to the base. I haven't had to deal with one for some time so that's from memory.
There is Three bolts at the bottom and Two at the top from what I can see. I just don't want to take the shifter down into to many parts. A bolt in cross member would be nice but not in this case. They are a popular upgrade I thought someone would share their experience. Thanks Guys
Croker,
You are correct, before you are ready to go back in, bolt the shiter up the trans before you re-install put the shifter in Neutral, you will see alignment hole, get the correct size drill bit and slip it in to keep it in the neutral postion, now connect all of the shifting linkage till they slip fit in without moving the shifting levers on the side of the trans. Also check the condition of your bushings (for your linkage rods), you can get plastic or metal ones, I perfer metal. Remove drill bit and cycle through making sure it shifts smooth. Once all adjusted properly remove the shifter and rods without losing the adjustments that you made. If you are still fuzzy on the adjusment look it up on Youtube to get a visual. I hope this helps. Randy
I've got the adjustment down. It's pretty close to doing a stock shifter just stock uses a little flat bar. My concern was getting the shifter out without complete disassembly. by the way it's out now.