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Two of the bolts holding on the rotor are just spinning and I canot even see the head of the bolt on the back side of the rotor. How do I get these rotors off? I am doing this so I can replace the wheel studs that broke off and going to just replace them all. Another questin is to get the front rotors off am I going to have to drill out the rivets?
Two of the bolts holding on the rotor are just spinning and I canot even see the head of the bolt on the back side of the rotor. How do I get these rotors off? I am doing this so I can replace the wheel studs that broke off and going to just replace them all. Another questin is to get the front rotors off am I going to have to drill out the rivets?
Shouldn't be bolts holding the rotor unless someone installed them. Do you have the wheel off? If so, drill or cut whatever those bolts are. As far as the front goes....yes, you'll have to drill them out. Make sure to punch them all the way out or they can back out and hit the caliper bracket. No need to reinstall any rivets...they were put on so the rotors wouldn't fall off on the assembly line.
Two of the bolts holding on the rotor are just spinning and I canot even see the head of the bolt on the back side of the rotor. How do I get these rotors off? I am doing this so I can replace the wheel studs that broke off and going to just replace them all. Another questin is to get the front rotors off am I going to have to drill out the rivets?
Weird! Can you post a pic of the rear rotor?
As for the front rotor...What problem are you trying to repair.......it depends on what you are doing to the car as to whether you need to take the extra time to drill out the rivets and possibly cause the rotor to wobble when reassembled.
Shouldn't be bolts holding the rotor unless someone installed them. Do you have the wheel off? If so, drill or cut whatever those bolts are. As far as the front goes....yes, you'll have to drill them out. Make sure to punch them all the way out or they can back out and hit the caliper bracket. No need to reinstall any rivets...they were put on so the rotors wouldn't fall off on the assembly line.
As for the front rotor...What problem are you trying to repair.......it depends on what you are doing to the car as to whether you need to take the extra time to drill out the rivets and possibly cause the rotor to wobble when reassembled.
Replacing all the wheel studs since I had 2 snap off the other day when I took the RR tire off. Going to replace all 20 for safety sake.
No need to reinstall any rivets...they were put on so the rotors wouldn't fall off on the assembly line.
Slightly more than that- the rivets held the rotor to allow final machining of the friction surfaces to eliminate runout. Replacing the rotors with new ones means the machining needs to be redone in many cases.
Slightly more than that- the rivets held the rotor to allow final machining of the friction surfaces to eliminate runout. Replacing the rotors with new ones means the machining needs to be redone in many cases.
Looking at the front again I don't think I need to pull the rotors to replace the wheel studs on the front just turn them to 3 o'clock and should go in and out. Am I correct?
Car is an early 68 October 67 C21 build code maybe that is why might be different as it is mostly 67 drive train and that is something they changed during the 68 year production?
So I guess I need to order some new rivets for when I go back with it or may be dead in the water and sending out the trailing arms for rebuild, which sucks and I uess no driving it any time soon!
One front is done Good punch and 3 strikes with a 3 lb hammer and old one was out, 3 o'clock was right position. Found old groove with new one set it with hammer and punch. Stacked washers and got them set with impact. Busted out caliper measured overall length and thickness of rotor from old studs. Drove em out and measured from front to make sure they were seated correctly.
Looking at the front again I don't think I need to pull the rotors to replace the wheel studs on the front just turn them to 3 o'clock and should go in and out. Am I correct?
Much easier to just remove the front hub and rotor as an assembly by removing the front outer bearing. This would be a good opportunity to clean and regrease the bearings too.
Originally Posted by 68Thunder427
Car is an early 68 October 67 C21 build code maybe that is why might be different as it is mostly 67 drive train and that is something they changed during the 68 year production?
No. Braking system was pretty much unchanged from 1965 through 1982.