building up l48
Ya definitely going to do that math twmr for the dynamic compression, and thanks I was just wondering if I could swing that cam I'm more concerned with having a fast car than sounding like a fast car but if I could get both that'd be great lol,
Also I'm good on the intake, I search craigslist everyday but everyone in my area (tampa) seems like they think they have gold or its the wrong size/part I'm looking for although I did get my performer air-gap the polished one for 200 off there which it isnt dirt cheap but it's 400 new so I figured I did well lol, my main concern is basically is making sure all these parts match together because everyone always says how ppl jump in to quick and buy mismatched parts, the only parts I'm looking for still are roller rockers and headers which seem to sell extremely fast lol
That makes me feel alot more comfortable getting the 262, do you use 1.5 rockers? I'm up in the air about the size I like the idea about getting the lift near .500 but idk if it really matters
Last edited by bluedawg; May 29, 2014 at 12:34 AM.
Nobody on last weekend's Corvette run, thought that my '74 was a wimpy car, that's for sure!
Btw are 993 heads better than 882? cuz I have 993 or are they still boat ancors?
Also I'm good on the intake, I search craigslist everyday but everyone in my area (tampa) seems like they think they have gold or its the wrong size/part I'm looking for although I did get my performer air-gap the polished one for 200 off there which it isnt dirt cheap but it's 400 new so I figured I did well lol, my main concern is basically is making sure all these parts match together because everyone always says how ppl jump in to quick and buy mismatched parts, the only parts I'm looking for still are roller rockers and headers which seem to sell extremely fast lol
The Edelbrock will be just fine, no problem. You're going to have roughly a little over 300 hp at the crank. It will be fast, but don't be surprised at how much faster the newer cars are. You're not going to be beating any new 5.0 Mustangs, that's for sure. But you're still going to have a hoot. The L48-L98 combo in my '74 will lay down rubber, get sideways and run hard for what it is. I'm happy with the budget build and I researched it for weeks, before deciding on it. It's a plenty exciting car, that's for sure! Make sure you take your time assembling it and I recommend the Remflex gaskets. The tight-tuck headers from Corvette Central are D-port compatible.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by bluedawg; May 29, 2014 at 12:47 AM.
Our circumstances were the engine in my '74 and the compartment was a giant ball of hardened grease and dirt! It wasn't that hard to pull the engine and clean it up. Also, we didn't have to rebuild the bottom end, because it was in excellent condition! The valves were all tan, there was hardly any carbon buildup on the top of the pistons, the bores were clean and had no abnormal wear and as mentioned, the connecting rod bearings were nice too. We got to put a new seal on both the front and rear of the crank, because it was leaking bad and ditto for the oil pan gasket. After we were done, it looked right nice, with the engine compartment freshly painted.
If the OP's and yours were relatively clean (like, Gunk will clean it up), versus using a putty knife then your option, would definitely be the way to go.
Mine doesn't leak a drop! Oh and speaking of oil pan gaskets, those new blue Fel-Pro one piece rubber gaskets are the bomb! Just make sure you get the right size! Early SBC's have a thinner section in the rear, versus '77 and later, which are thicker.
True, that's an option as well. Certainly would save time and trouble and yes, a rebuild of the bottom end might be in order if you went that route. Circumstances, would dictate this and I agree as well on the compression test (good catch!).
Our circumstances were the engine in my '74 and the compartment was a giant ball of hardened grease and dirt! It wasn't that hard to pull the engine and clean it up. Also, we didn't have to rebuild the bottom end, because it was in excellent condition! The valves were all tan, there was hardly any carbon buildup on the top of the pistons, the bores were clean and had no abnormal wear and as mentioned, the connecting rod bearings were nice too. We got to put a new seal on both the front and rear of the crank, because it was leaking bad and ditto for the oil pan gasket. After we were done, it looked right nice, with the engine compartment freshly painted.
If the OP's and yours were relatively clean (like, Gunk will clean it up), versus using a putty knife then your option, would definitely be the way to go.
Mine doesn't leak a drop! Oh and speaking of oil pan gaskets, those new blue Fel-Pro one piece rubber gaskets are the bomb! Just make sure you get the right size! Early SBC's have a thinner section in the rear, versus '77 and later, which are thicker.
Last edited by bluedawg; May 29, 2014 at 02:48 AM.
As for the cam I get it you want the nice lumpy idle but you don't want a poser ride that can't get out of its way either.... the 268 cams will work for you with the right amount of compression and good flowing intake and exhaust. They are very close to the 262 only the power and comes in a bit higher and and peaks a bit higher (500rpm or so) plus with the right components it can make a bit more power....for me and my components it wasn't worth it as I have 3.08 gears an auto and a 2000rpm stall.... I want the pickup from stop lights to be good and the car to feel light.in its more used rpm range. I don't want to have to change my rear gears and have to deal with 3-3,500 rpm while cruising on the freeway. The 262 was and is better for this.
I plan on pulling my original block and storing it in the garage... it was just easier to start with something freshly machined and clean. I don't want to be doing it again any time soon.
Plus the chambered sweet thunder exhaust in the side pipes will still give it a sweet sound... I hope to get the engine swapped on my vacation next month.
Last edited by augiedoggy; May 29, 2014 at 08:04 AM.
Plus I don't but if you have the original hood I've been told the air gap doesn't fit under it.
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255339...-complete.html
http://www.trickflow.com/articles/dy..._l98_heads.asp
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine_build_iii/
Even Lingenfelter sells em!
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C41
Be advised that you HAVE to run self-aligning rocker arms. They are the ONLY GM heads, that have BOTH guide plates and rocker arms. Apparently, the guide plates were there, for the factory line guys to be able to just drop the push rods in.
Auggie right on about the cam, though. I'm running a Lunati Voodoo cam too. It's an RV-Marine-4x4 cam, made for a lot of torque, down low and it will pull hard, all the way to 5,500 RPM's no problem.
Lunati 262
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit - Chevrolet Small Block 256/262
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2323&gid=287
Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Best mild performance cam. Works excellent in TPI fuel injection applications. Makes approximately 19 vacuum at idle. Great for performance oriented marine applications and heavy towing applications. Perfect Street Rod cam. Has slightly noticeable idle, works with stock converter, A/C.
OK so I checked the pistons and looks like I have dished definitely been rebuilt but looks like they put dished back in, my one question is that are those Lingenfelter heads sold as a pair or per head?, because they look nice but I'd rather buy a short block with flat tops if that's per head
Plus I don't but if you have the original hood I've been told the air gap doesn't fit under it.
Also if those Lingenfelter heads are sold in pairs what would be a better option the profiler heads or the Lingenfelter heads?













