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Old May 28, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by marc1973
thanks for the info guys i think what im going to do is check out my pistons this week to make sure i have flat tops or dished whatever it may be instead of assuming, i know going too big is bad but would the voodoo 268 cam be too big and i read something about degreeing the cam to lower the power band is that a possibility for that cam or should i just stay around the 262, i know youre not suppose to choose cams by sound but the 268 sounds pretty good maybe im just looking at it wrong but it looks like itd work in my car but idk if itd kill my low end power also i cant find any sound clips of the 262 cam
The 262 cam has a nice little rump to it and sounds plenty healthy in my '74. I was on the fence as well for the 268, but I talked to Lunati and they recommended the 262 for the L48 combo. The 262's torque comes on lower and to me, that is what counts. I have a manual trans too and believe me, you will have fun with it. It's responsive and pulls hard through all the gears.
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Old May 28, 2014 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
I believe reelavitator cc'd his pistons it the block, search his post's or contact him, that way you know exactly what you got going, I believe his was a l-48 so his information would put you spot on if your's is an unmolested l48. With you having a manual, I don't believe that the 268 is too big, you'll need to figure your dynamic compression ratio with all the pertainent information that you either have or can messure and want to end up at either 8 to 1 or 8.1 to 1 on your dynamic with the cam shaft, you having a manual gives you some wiggle room as far as the camshaft size is concerned, but go much larger than that and you'll have an engine that doesn't come alive untill 3000 rpm. Further more choosing a camshaft by how it sounds will have your engine sounding good but will most likly run like a pieceofdogshit.

Ya definitely going to do that math twmr for the dynamic compression, and thanks I was just wondering if I could swing that cam I'm more concerned with having a fast car than sounding like a fast car but if I could get both that'd be great lol,

Also I'm good on the intake, I search craigslist everyday but everyone in my area (tampa) seems like they think they have gold or its the wrong size/part I'm looking for although I did get my performer air-gap the polished one for 200 off there which it isnt dirt cheap but it's 400 new so I figured I did well lol, my main concern is basically is making sure all these parts match together because everyone always says how ppl jump in to quick and buy mismatched parts, the only parts I'm looking for still are roller rockers and headers which seem to sell extremely fast lol
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Old May 28, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by F22
The 262 cam has a nice little rump to it and sounds plenty healthy in my '74. I was on the fence as well for the 268, but I talked to Lunati and they recommended the 262 for the L48 combo. The 262's torque comes on lower and to me, that is what counts. I have a manual trans too and believe me, you will have fun with it. It's responsive and pulls hard through all the gears.

That makes me feel alot more comfortable getting the 262, do you use 1.5 rockers? I'm up in the air about the size I like the idea about getting the lift near .500 but idk if it really matters
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Old May 28, 2014 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by F22
They may not flow as well as the Trick Flow or something that costs $2K and up, but they flow a helluva lot better than the 882 heads that came on the l48.
I agree 100%. Are they afrs no. Do they flow better than 882's hell yes. They probably flow as better than the edelbrock heads that I made 260 hp at the wheels with the xe262h and 1.6 rockers. Will be a noticeable gain over 190at the crank? Stevie ray could see how much better it will perform.

Last edited by bluedawg; May 29, 2014 at 12:34 AM.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by marc1973
That makes me feel alot more comfortable getting the 262, do you use 1.5 rockers? I'm up in the air about the size I like the idea about getting the lift near .500 but idk if it really matters
I'll check, but basically, it was just the stock rockers, nothing fancy. Make sure you know how the heads are set up. The stock aluminum L98 heads used self-aligning rockers AND guide plates! This is from GM. I should know, I bent two sets of push rods going with the regular rocker arms, because even the highly experienced Cylinder Head guys thought that they shouldn't have to use self aligning rocker arms, but they do!
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
I agree 100%. Are they afrs no. Do they now better than 882's hell yes. They probably flow as well as the edelbrock heads that I made 260 hp at the wheels Keith the xe 262h and 1.6 rockers. Will be a noticeable gain over 190at the crank.


Nobody on last weekend's Corvette run, thought that my '74 was a wimpy car, that's for sure!

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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:15 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by F22
I'll check, but basically, it was just the stock rockers, nothing fancy. Make sure you know how the heads are set up. The stock aluminum L98 heads used self-aligning rockers AND guide plates! This is from GM. I should know, I bent two sets of push rods going with the regular rocker arms, because even the highly experienced Cylinder Head guys thought that they shouldn't have to use self aligning rocker arms, but they do!
Thanks I'm hoping to have flat tops so I can use the profiler heads but if I end up going the L98 route that's alright too,

Btw are 993 heads better than 882? cuz I have 993 or are they still boat ancors?
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:22 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by marc1973
Ya definitely going to do that math twmr for the dynamic compression, and thanks I was just wondering if I could swing that cam I'm more concerned with having a fast car than sounding like a fast car but if I could get both that'd be great lol,

Also I'm good on the intake, I search craigslist everyday but everyone in my area (tampa) seems like they think they have gold or its the wrong size/part I'm looking for although I did get my performer air-gap the polished one for 200 off there which it isnt dirt cheap but it's 400 new so I figured I did well lol, my main concern is basically is making sure all these parts match together because everyone always says how ppl jump in to quick and buy mismatched parts, the only parts I'm looking for still are roller rockers and headers which seem to sell extremely fast lol

The Edelbrock will be just fine, no problem. You're going to have roughly a little over 300 hp at the crank. It will be fast, but don't be surprised at how much faster the newer cars are. You're not going to be beating any new 5.0 Mustangs, that's for sure. But you're still going to have a hoot. The L48-L98 combo in my '74 will lay down rubber, get sideways and run hard for what it is. I'm happy with the budget build and I researched it for weeks, before deciding on it. It's a plenty exciting car, that's for sure! Make sure you take your time assembling it and I recommend the Remflex gaskets. The tight-tuck headers from Corvette Central are D-port compatible.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by F22
The Edelbrock will be just fine, no problem. You're going to have roughly a little over 300 hp at the crank. It will be fast, but don't be surprised at how much faster the newer cars are. You're not going to be beating any new 5.0 Mustangs, that's for sure. But you're still going to have a hoot. The L48-L98 combo in my '74 will lay down rubber, get sideways and run hard for what it is. I'm happy with the budget build and I researched it for weeks, before deciding on it. It's a plenty exciting car, that's for sure! Make sure you take your time assembling it and I recommend the Remflex gaskets. The tight-tuck headers from Corvette Central are D-port compatible.
Glad you said something about headers that was going to be my next question , thanks for the info if I end up having dished pistons I'll probably go the L98 route seems like a good way togo, if not these pro-filers seem good with flat tops as well, I should be able to check twmr or sometime in the next few days I'll let you guys know what I go with, thanks for all the help
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by marc1973

Thanks I'm hoping to have flat tops so I can use the profiler heads but if I end up going the L98 route that's alright too,

Btw are 993 heads better than 882? cuz I have 993 or are they still boat ancors?
You can use the profiler heads with a .015" gasket and still have respectable compression with a good quench. The 882's had 76cc chambers and come in at 8 to 1, which the general called 8.5 to 1. Its been a while since I played with the static and dynamic compression calculators on Wallace racing, but I'm pretty sure with your l48 pistons being .025" in the hole and the dishes with 64cc chambers you'd be at 9 to 1. Oh and when I ran the xe262h it has a noticeable idle.

Last edited by bluedawg; May 29, 2014 at 12:47 AM.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:42 AM
  #31  
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A couple of extra thoughts here. You might as well pull the motor and trans to do this for a few good reasons. First, with the engine on a stand, you'll be able to flip it over and check the connecting rod bearings. Check the cylinder walls too and look at the old heads carefully, comparing the bottom of the valves in the combustion chamber to each other. All of mine were a light tan, both intake and exhaust. Also, this allows you to put fresh gaskets on everything, including the oil pan, so you won't have any leaks. And while you're at it, it's much easier to clean and freshen up the engine compartment as well. Front suspension parts are cheap and with the engine out, it's a great time to do it, if it needs it. Check the wiring and fix whatever else you find. And feel free to ask questions in addition to using the Search feature. Good Luck!
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Old May 29, 2014 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by F22
A couple of extra thoughts here. You might as well pull the motor and trans to do this for a few good reasons. First, with the engine on a stand, you'll be able to flip it over and check the connecting rod bearings. Check the cylinder walls too and look at the old heads carefully, comparing the bottom of the valves in the combustion chamber to each other. All of mine were a light tan, both intake and exhaust. Also, this allows you to put fresh gaskets on everything, including the oil pan, so you won't have any leaks. And while you're at it, it's much easier to clean and freshen up the engine compartment as well. Front suspension parts are cheap and with the engine out, it's a great time to do it, if it needs it. Check the wiring and fix whatever else you find. And feel free to ask questions in addition to using the Search feature. Good Luck!
When I did the l48 top I did it with the engine in the vehicle, ran a compression test and did the rest. My thoughts were that if I had to pull the engine, I might as well rebuild it, if I were doing that, I might as well stroke it.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 02:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bluedawg
When I did the l48 top I did it with the engine in the vehicle, ran a compression test and did the rest. My thoughts were that if I had to pull the engine, I might as well rebuild it, if I were doing that, I might as well stroke it.
True, that's an option as well. Certainly would save time and trouble and yes, a rebuild of the bottom end might be in order if you went that route. Circumstances, would dictate this and I agree as well on the compression test (good catch!).

Our circumstances were the engine in my '74 and the compartment was a giant ball of hardened grease and dirt! It wasn't that hard to pull the engine and clean it up. Also, we didn't have to rebuild the bottom end, because it was in excellent condition! The valves were all tan, there was hardly any carbon buildup on the top of the pistons, the bores were clean and had no abnormal wear and as mentioned, the connecting rod bearings were nice too. We got to put a new seal on both the front and rear of the crank, because it was leaking bad and ditto for the oil pan gasket. After we were done, it looked right nice, with the engine compartment freshly painted.

If the OP's and yours were relatively clean (like, Gunk will clean it up), versus using a putty knife then your option, would definitely be the way to go.



Mine doesn't leak a drop! Oh and speaking of oil pan gaskets, those new blue Fel-Pro one piece rubber gaskets are the bomb! Just make sure you get the right size! Early SBC's have a thinner section in the rear, versus '77 and later, which are thicker.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by F22

True, that's an option as well. Certainly would save time and trouble and yes, a rebuild of the bottom end might be in order if you went that route. Circumstances, would dictate this and I agree as well on the compression test (good catch!).

Our circumstances were the engine in my '74 and the compartment was a giant ball of hardened grease and dirt! It wasn't that hard to pull the engine and clean it up. Also, we didn't have to rebuild the bottom end, because it was in excellent condition! The valves were all tan, there was hardly any carbon buildup on the top of the pistons, the bores were clean and had no abnormal wear and as mentioned, the connecting rod bearings were nice too. We got to put a new seal on both the front and rear of the crank, because it was leaking bad and ditto for the oil pan gasket. After we were done, it looked right nice, with the engine compartment freshly painted.

If the OP's and yours were relatively clean (like, Gunk will clean it up), versus using a putty knife then your option, would definitely be the way to go.


Mine doesn't leak a drop! Oh and speaking of oil pan gaskets, those new blue Fel-Pro one piece rubber gaskets are the bomb! Just make sure you get the right size! Early SBC's have a thinner section in the rear, versus '77 and later, which are thicker.
Mine was relatively clean, when I pulled the l48 to instal the 400" in I cleaned and flat blacked the bay. Made it look better.

Last edited by bluedawg; May 29, 2014 at 02:48 AM.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 03:06 AM
  #35  
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Go roller cam! The performance gains are well worth the costs..Torque builds right off idle which is what you need with those 3.08 gears..Avoid using a manifold with a cut down plenum divider,it hurts your low end throttle response.I closed up the divider on my air gap and using a 4 hole carb gasket.My mpg's improved ,throttle response was much better..I'm talking street performance not racing down the strip...
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Old May 29, 2014 | 07:52 AM
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I'm just trying to get the point across that if he has patience, he can pick up all the components or even another engine on Craigslist for much less than buying everything at retail new....

As for the cam I get it you want the nice lumpy idle but you don't want a poser ride that can't get out of its way either.... the 268 cams will work for you with the right amount of compression and good flowing intake and exhaust. They are very close to the 262 only the power and comes in a bit higher and and peaks a bit higher (500rpm or so) plus with the right components it can make a bit more power....for me and my components it wasn't worth it as I have 3.08 gears an auto and a 2000rpm stall.... I want the pickup from stop lights to be good and the car to feel light.in its more used rpm range. I don't want to have to change my rear gears and have to deal with 3-3,500 rpm while cruising on the freeway. The 262 was and is better for this.
I plan on pulling my original block and storing it in the garage... it was just easier to start with something freshly machined and clean. I don't want to be doing it again any time soon.

Plus the chambered sweet thunder exhaust in the side pipes will still give it a sweet sound... I hope to get the engine swapped on my vacation next month.

Last edited by augiedoggy; May 29, 2014 at 08:04 AM.
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Old May 29, 2014 | 08:16 AM
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I agree on the manifold comment above... that's why I went with a polished rpm clone and not the air gap... the cutout costs torque in the lower rpm range.... you can get a polished pro comp or professional products manifold new for about $150 if I remember right.... they perform the same as the edelbrock but are not made in the USA so the cost is less than half... I already have Chinese made OBX side pipes since both hooker and OBX make them outside the country and my edelbrock branded Carb (which is a carter clone) and scat crank was made overseas so It wasn't worth paying double for the intake... my car needs a lot of work and I just don't have the budget to pay 2 to 3 times more to buy NOS American made parts for everything.

Plus I don't but if you have the original hood I've been told the air gap doesn't fit under it.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 09:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by F22
Those are the runner lengths, not the CC. Typical CC is 58 and 64. Auggie has flat top pistons and can run a 64 cc head, but a typical L48 comes with dished pistons. You would benefit from a very small CC head, like the 1987-1991 L-98 Aluminum Heads off've the C4 Corvettes, with the tiny 58cc chambers and the thinnest gasket you can run. The small CC would match up nicely with the dished pistons and you don't have to touch the block, if everything looks ok in there. They are also the D-Port heads, with bigger exhaust openings. These are almost the exact same head as the ZZ4 350 HO heads that GM sells.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6255339...-complete.html

http://www.trickflow.com/articles/dy..._l98_heads.asp


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine_build_iii/

Even Lingenfelter sells em!

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C41


Be advised that you HAVE to run self-aligning rocker arms. They are the ONLY GM heads, that have BOTH guide plates and rocker arms. Apparently, the guide plates were there, for the factory line guys to be able to just drop the push rods in.

Auggie right on about the cam, though. I'm running a Lunati Voodoo cam too. It's an RV-Marine-4x4 cam, made for a lot of torque, down low and it will pull hard, all the way to 5,500 RPM's no problem.


Lunati 262

Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit - Chevrolet Small Block 256/262

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2323&gid=287
Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Best mild performance cam. Works excellent in TPI fuel injection applications. Makes approximately 19 vacuum at idle. Great for performance oriented marine applications and heavy towing applications. Perfect Street Rod cam. Has slightly noticeable idle, works with stock converter, A/C.

OK so I checked the pistons and looks like I have dished definitely been rebuilt but looks like they put dished back in, my one question is that are those Lingenfelter heads sold as a pair or per head?, because they look nice but I'd rather buy a short block with flat tops if that's per head
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
I agree on the manifold comment above... that's why I went with a polished rpm clone and not the air gap... the cutout costs torque in the lower rpm range.... you can get a polished pro comp or professional products manifold new for about $150 if I remember right.... they perform the same as the edelbrock but are not made in the USA so the cost is less than half... I already have Chinese made OBX side pipes since both hooker and OBX make them outside the country and my edelbrock branded Carb (which is a carter clone) and scat crank was made overseas so It wasn't worth paying double for the intake... my car needs a lot of work and I just don't have the budget to pay 2 to 3 times more to buy NOS American made parts for everything.

Plus I don't but if you have the original hood I've been told the air gap doesn't fit under it.
I have the original hood but for reason I have a fairly good amount of room even with a 3 in x 14 in filter it has a drop base of about 1 inch

Also if those Lingenfelter heads are sold in pairs what would be a better option the profiler heads or the Lingenfelter heads?
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by marc1973
I have the original hood but for reason I have a fairly good amount of room even with a 3 in x 14 in filter it has a drop base of about 1 inch

Also if those Lingenfelter heads are sold in pairs what would be a better option the profiler heads or the Lingenfelter heads?
I'm not sure of the specs of either but here's my thoughts... your not builting a race engine so you don't need the apsolute best heads you can afford.... there are plenty of cheaper new head options like the summit branded dart made heads that can still easily built 400hp in a 350.... bolting extremely expensive heads up will only bring out the limits of the weakest flowing/performing part in the system.... for example if you spent $600 on a pair of summit assembled heads and 150 on an intake plus 160 on a cam with lifters (the lunati 262 package is on sale for 155 at summit with lifters) and a 100 bucks on gaskets,timing chain sect your way ahead for a total of $1,000 than you would be by just replacing the heads with higher priced ones... you have to make sure your intake and exhaust can support the additional flow. The pistons don't matter much really in your case since you can just get smaller chamber heads or have the 64cc ones decked.... even 64cc heads with shim gaskets will raise your compression plenty with your stock pistons. If you were going to race or run it as a drag car then things would be different...but then you would need a much bigger cam and gears and stahl converter...but in that case why not go 383 and 700r4? And the what ifs keep coming... its easy to let thoughts get out of hand.
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