GM frames definitely have had their problems but this is extreme because it has cracked in so many places. The old C/K trucks all had frame cracking issues at the steering box. To the point the after market came out with a weld in brace and bracket that went between the steering box and frame. It looks like you'll be doing the same.

 

I am looking for something like a weld in brace, but havent come across anything off the shelf yet.

Does anyone have pics of the plate over the hole recommended repair on the C3 frames? Ive never seen what that looks like. Some have mentioned that was a recommended repair from GM. Where can I find the details on this?

 

I did all of these welds to the up kick supports on my frame and I believe they will work. I believe your crack can be done also. Needs someone who can weld.
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Looks like that crack is extending from the repair. It might have already been hairline cracked from before, and just not repaired over far enough.

I would brace and weld that entire area.

 

Nice work!

 

Im thinking so also. Regarding the sidewall that is tearing apart under the power steering unit, that was already a weak spot.

Im wondering if this frame repair can be done without ripping the car apart. I know the Borgeson needs to come out of course, but not sure how many other parts need to be removed to do this properly.

 

I can't see how just welding up the cracks could make that right. I would cut the whole inner side off behind the box and also cut that bottom mess of old holes and supports off. Replace the inner with a piece of new steel going from the engine mount back to about the big hole in the frame. Replace the bottom with some strips making it flat and solid without all the welds on top of more welds. These could go over the old frame to the front and back of the hole left when you cut that old crap out.

If you have cracks going under the engine mount then it'll likely have to come off too. Actually, that would likely be a good plan either way to extend the new plate further forward.

I would put a plate over the outside if it's possible to add something reasonable with the shape of the frame.

I would also put new sleeves through the frame for the bolts. Open the holes up large enough you can put pieces of tubing right through with them flush on both sides (well flush on the inside for sure). Taper the outside of the tubing and the holes so you can weld around the tubes and then grind it smooth so they are flush once welded.

I'd want the engine out to properly attempt this type of repair.

 

Seems that the Jeep Steering type box moves the power steering loading to the frame when doing away with the power steering ram. I wonder if others will start having this problem.

Anyway the stock frame welding is **** poor to begin with so you don't need a certified welding to be much better that the stock welds. I would suggest local car clubs or folks that build custom cars in your area as they'll know of a hobbyist in your area that can fix this with MIG welding.

I learned to weld on my 80 and now I'm pretty good at it.

Also one of the vendors like ride-tech sells a brace which I think is mentioned in another thread.

Don't give up or get rid of your frame. This can be fixed and I would add some addition bracing to reduce frame push and twist in this area.

 

This frame thing has me crazy frustrated. Its one thing spending money improving and/or restoring, but this car is starting to feel like a death trap at this point.

I like Lionelhutz's suggestion on how to repair it, but taking the engine out to do it is just not in the cards right now. If that engine comes out, its not going back in, and Im not quite ready to do a engine swap yet.

Im looking for some kind of solution that doesnt involve tearing the car down if its possible. Is there a way to cut out the sidewalls of that frame and replace them with new metal without engine removal or body off? Is there a safe but simple method to make this area strong? Seems that the other frame crack welds are holding nicely as far as I can tell.

 

Well, it could probably be done with the engine in place if you removed the exhaust on that side but it'd really be a pain in the *** to work around it.

You could try a new piece on the inside over what's there fitted right to the engine mount and then run back the frame a bit. Maybe something around 11 gauge or so. It'd probably work but it's just not the best idea because it would throw the steering off center a bit.

 

I had the same thought, but was worried about how the steering column would line up to the box. Im sure it would throw everything off a bit.

 

This clip is what I was talking about in post#34. You are trying to minimize the flexing, that in turn causes the crack. I probably would not have ground down the new repair welds either. At this point I would probably add plate to the top and bottom of the rails and add fish plates to the motor mount horn. You can find a PDF of the powerbook.

 

74Modified,

Does covering that hole really add significant strength to the frame? I regret not doing that when we were fixing the rest of the cracks.

 

I really cant find many threads of guys having frame crack problems similar to this. Anyone know of other threads and how they resolved the problem?

 

If you read that first paragraph below the picture, the Chevy engineers highly recommended covering that outside hole for heavy use. If it were mine, I would either plate over the exterior side of the rail, or remove the exterior side. If the side was removed, (probably a better solution, and less tire clearance issues), you could go in and add stiffening ribs internal to the frame. I would also add fish plates to the motor mount horn, (more Chevy Power Book mods) as that would help triangulate the area = less flexing.

 

Many guys have had cracks or have cracks that they don't know about but none have the cracks to the extent you have. IMHO that section of frame has some faulty steel. Now that doesn't mean scrape the frame, although that may be you last option if this persists.
I had a trailer frame that was cracking. I bought a small Hobart welder and started practicing. Many YouTube videos on how to but it's pretty easy to spot a good weld. With a little practice, you could tackle this yourself.
The two biggest rules of welding is a clean surface and good penetration. After you try a few easy cracks, you'll know if it's good or bad.
I prefer using the argon/co mix gas while mig welding. The welds come out nicer and the sparkles are much less. The flux wire is actually stronger but looks like junk and sparks fly everywhere!
Before starting, look for wide cracks and use a ratchet strap or come along to pull the frame into position. If the spring is causing the gap, it has to come out. Find the absolute end of every crack and drill a hole.
The deep heavy steel cracks must be "V" out a little for good penetration and don't try doing a 10 inch crack in one sweep. Do 3 inch sections and skip around.
The good news is the steering box will never crack off all at one, the frame will never split in half all at once unless you're in a severe accident and that can happen to any of our cars. It's up to you to check and recheck for more cracks after your finished with the repair. Any crack tha starts, you must find the absolute end and drill a hole, then weld it up again. I think you'll be fine ones everything is solid again. No flex, no cracks! Welding in plates and gussets is just extra insurance nothing moves.
That was a lot of writing but I wouldn't of done it, if I didn't think you could do it!

 

Zero1nine. Its been over a year since you started this. Have you not gotten it fixed yet???

 

The drawing above showing the plate on the frame would help but I think the frame is getting more twisting when the power steering is moved to the box/frame vs. the original ram to frame type.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/c2-c3-...forcement.html

The link above shows the new brace from Ridetech that I think would be worth looking at.

I would still try to find a car hobbyist in your area willing to help you out through car shows, car builders or other place. You're going to have to hunt them out.

Taking the engine out would be best but I think you can fix it enough until you do pull the engine.

 

Ribs inside of the frame is a great idea. Ideally could not add metal to this inside wall (steering box position) or the outside wall (tire clearance issues).

 

Thanks for taking the time on that Hugie. I actually took mig and tig welding classes years ago, but I have no actual practical experience.But I think I can do this.