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But I still have this question: Was the reduction in the CR from 1970 (11:1) to 1971/2 (9:1) accomplished with a change to the pistons, or a change to the heads? Or both?
The reason I ask: The motor in my 1961 is based on a LT-1 short block. In 1972, after 100K miles on the original 283, my father (the original owner) purchased a 1972 shortblock from the local Chevy dealer (for $375!), and rebuilt the motor using parts from the original 283 (heads, intake, carb, pan, etc.). I remember helping him do the work in the garage (I was 7).
I believe the original 230hp/283 heads are 64cc.
So what is my compression ratio?
P.S. The motor runs very strong and I'm having to pull timing a bit to run on California pump premium (91 octane).
the '70 LT-1 used a 64cc head, and the '71-'72 LT-1 used a 75cc head. I am not sure about the pistons, but I don't think 11ccs is enough to drop compression 2 full points, so it is very possible that the '71-'72 LT-1 used a different piston, maybe a flat-top? Hope this helps,
the '70 LT-1 used a 64cc head, and the '71-'72 LT-1 used a 75cc head. I am not sure about the pistons, but I don't think 11ccs is enough to drop compression 2 full points, so it is very possible that the '71-'72 LT-1 used a different piston, maybe a flat-top? Hope this helps,
Scott
Correct info about the heads.
1970 LT-1 pistons were "dome", forged, TRW
1971-72 pistons were flat top, I assume forged, TRW.
I believe the factory compression ratios are a bit optimistic, as 11:1 would be the blueprinted compression ratio (zero deck clearance on block, heads right at 64cc)...the reality is that it's probably more like 10.5:1, which is still too much for pump premium today. Are you running lead additive in the gas ? You'll destroy those old 283 heads without it (non-hardened valve seats).
A 71-72 is more like 8.5:1, as an un-decked block with a 76cc head and a flattop piston will not get 9:1 . And 76cc heads run more like 78cc unless they're shaved and the typical TRW 4 valve relief pistons add at least 4 more cc to the combustion chamber size when figuring compression. So 78cc, .025 down the hole, .040 gasket thickness, and at least 4cc of valve relief in the pistons = less than 9:1 .
The way to make your old girl happy would be a rebuild or a different 350 with a 6" long connecting rod, a modern cam, vortec heads, zero deck, and a piston with just 2 valve reliefs. Add a vortec specific intake, a bigger Edelbrock carb (if you still have a Carter), Brezininski ported cast iron exhaust manifolds, and a 2.5" X pipe dual exhaust.
Yes, it's running the original Carter WCFB. No, I'm not running any fuel additives.. I do understand the concern.. but after doing a deep dive into facts and opinions on the valveseat/lead issue, I decided to just run pump gas. I'm not saying I know for sure there will be no issues - rather I'm taking a calculated risk, knowing that a new motor is in my future, sooner or later, anyway.
Perhaps a crate 350?... perhaps a period "correct" 283?... but I've been so busy working on EVERYTHING ELSE on the car that I'm just glad that it seems to be running fine for now. I've put a few hundred miles on it since it came out of a 30-year hibernation last year, and as I said, other than pulling the timing a few degrees, it runs very stong (no trouble lighting up those skinny tires at all!)
I would put in a 400 or 406 or a 420 small block, but that's just me...Glad it runs good for you. Usually oxygenated pump gas with ethanol is hard on old cast iron heads without hardened stellite seats, but maybe your old 283 heads have "work hardened" over the years.
Yes, it's running the original Carter WCFB. No, I'm not running any fuel additives.. I do understand the concern.. but after doing a deep dive into facts and opinions on the valveseat/lead issue, I decided to just run pump gas. I'm not saying I know for sure there will be no issues - rather I'm taking a calculated risk, knowing that a new motor is in my future, sooner or later, anyway.
Perhaps a crate 350?... perhaps a period "correct" 283?... but I've been so busy working on EVERYTHING ELSE on the car that I'm just glad that it seems to be running fine for now. I've put a few hundred miles on it since it came out of a 30-year hibernation last year, and as I said, other than pulling the timing a few degrees, it runs very stong (no trouble lighting up those skinny tires at all!)
Unless you are racing your vette or towing with it, not having hardened valve seats won't be a problem. They are needed in constant high rpm or heavy load applications like boats and airplanes. Or trucks doing a lot of towing.
If you ever have your heads off, then you can check and replace it you want.