Steeroids Manual Rack and Pinion Conversion Issues
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Steeroids Manual Rack and Pinion Conversion Issues
I had a Steeroids manual rack and pinion installed in my '69 and it's got an odd feel to it when the car isn't moving. It's seems to bind when turning from side to side, like when the U joints are side loaded. It's fine while the car is moving.
I chose the manual unit because it did not require any change when converting over from SB to BB which I plan in the next few years. I know it was done back a$$wards to a point. A reputable shop had my car, so I started adding stuff while it was apart as the labor was less. My car is a factory manual steering car.
Has anyone had any issues with this conversion?
I chose the manual unit because it did not require any change when converting over from SB to BB which I plan in the next few years. I know it was done back a$$wards to a point. A reputable shop had my car, so I started adding stuff while it was apart as the labor was less. My car is a factory manual steering car.
Has anyone had any issues with this conversion?
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 664
Likes: 89
From: Marysville Ohio
Do you have headers? I did the power conversion this winter - once I got the car on the road, I experienced something similar.
I had to clearance my header tube next to the steering u-joint, as many others have with this conversion. After getting it bolted up, it turns out I needed to do a little additional but minor clearancing of the header tube; the lock screws were still just making contact at one point. It was so minor it was only noticeable at idle or very low RPM, when the assist was low. I was trying to minimize the ding, and just didn't go far enough initially.
Another possibility is the U-Joint isn't completely aligned/in phase, but I would also look for rubbing somewhere.
I had to clearance my header tube next to the steering u-joint, as many others have with this conversion. After getting it bolted up, it turns out I needed to do a little additional but minor clearancing of the header tube; the lock screws were still just making contact at one point. It was so minor it was only noticeable at idle or very low RPM, when the assist was low. I was trying to minimize the ding, and just didn't go far enough initially.
Another possibility is the U-Joint isn't completely aligned/in phase, but I would also look for rubbing somewhere.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
U-Joint Phasing
I might have an idea on the problem, unfortunately I don't have an answer however.
Two universal joints (and in the Steeroids case - three universal joints) can result in large torque fluxuations as you rotate them through 360 degrees. Not having the transmission and differential drive shaft joints phased properly can result in very annoying vibrations in your drivetrain. The vibrations are caused by torque variation. This is with a two joint system. A third joint only makes the system even more complicated.
I am sure that major automotive companies probably have computer programs that can calculate the phasing for minimum torque variation. I don't have access to that type calculation.
One last thought, check to make sure that one of your three universal joints might be bottoming out (exceeding its design angle) and going metal to metal at some point during the rotation of your steering wheel.
Jim
Two universal joints (and in the Steeroids case - three universal joints) can result in large torque fluxuations as you rotate them through 360 degrees. Not having the transmission and differential drive shaft joints phased properly can result in very annoying vibrations in your drivetrain. The vibrations are caused by torque variation. This is with a two joint system. A third joint only makes the system even more complicated.
I am sure that major automotive companies probably have computer programs that can calculate the phasing for minimum torque variation. I don't have access to that type calculation.
One last thought, check to make sure that one of your three universal joints might be bottoming out (exceeding its design angle) and going metal to metal at some point during the rotation of your steering wheel.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,738
Likes: 644
From: Lincoln, CA
As Jim said make sure the phase is correct.
For me that meant the sticker on the u joint that connects the the steering shaft faces straight up. The lock nut doesn't go on the flat part of the shaft like you would expect.
Also make sure you are not making contact with the frame/engine mount. I had to grind off about 1/4 in order for the key to not make contact during ration. You could feel the bind with every full turn.
For me that meant the sticker on the u joint that connects the the steering shaft faces straight up. The lock nut doesn't go on the flat part of the shaft like you would expect.
Also make sure you are not making contact with the frame/engine mount. I had to grind off about 1/4 in order for the key to not make contact during ration. You could feel the bind with every full turn.
