Fuel pump, repairable?
Le Mans Master
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Haha..you know what else I realize is probably more important.....
From when I was verifying numbers the engine block info is : "255 HP 4 bbl 350 truck engine built in Flint Michigan on Nov 30 1970 for a pickup with automatic transmission."
So I believe I am right back to the 41240. Still would like a pic of someone else's installation to confirm which way the hoses routed.
From when I was verifying numbers the engine block info is : "255 HP 4 bbl 350 truck engine built in Flint Michigan on Nov 30 1970 for a pickup with automatic transmission."
So I believe I am right back to the 41240. Still would like a pic of someone else's installation to confirm which way the hoses routed.
Scott
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Thread Starter
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Above pics should show all the line locations. The current lines are both on the front( facing the radiator).
The pics of the 21240 look like the inlet faces rearward....I might need to get creative in the routing from pump to carb. There isn't any slack in the line I have there.
Why can't I find a pump listed for a 69 that has the return line? Clearly the return lines were there originally for that year. Hoping such pump might have inlet on the front.
21240 pic from an eBay ad. Most of the pics look just like this.
Next up will be;
1 Is it easy to verify of the other end of the return line is complete back at the tank? ( don't want to hook it up and find out the other end isn't connected because someone saw there was no return pump)
2 have to look for the right formed hoses to match the pump
If I can order the parts this week maybe by next weekend I can be wrenching. I already wish I was driving it to work today - feels like all I am doing is working.
The pics of the 21240 look like the inlet faces rearward....I might need to get creative in the routing from pump to carb. There isn't any slack in the line I have there.
Why can't I find a pump listed for a 69 that has the return line? Clearly the return lines were there originally for that year. Hoping such pump might have inlet on the front.
21240 pic from an eBay ad. Most of the pics look just like this.
Next up will be;
1 Is it easy to verify of the other end of the return line is complete back at the tank? ( don't want to hook it up and find out the other end isn't connected because someone saw there was no return pump)
2 have to look for the right formed hoses to match the pump
If I can order the parts this week maybe by next weekend I can be wrenching. I already wish I was driving it to work today - feels like all I am doing is working.
Last edited by 69bones; Jun 22, 2014 at 06:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 222
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
I also only find on ecklers that the multi hose kit between pump and hard lines the tank only starts at 1970.
My build date is about Aug 30th. Is this one of hose late (in the) year build changes that I have read about?
Part # 41953
My build date is about Aug 30th. Is this one of hose late (in the) year build changes that I have read about?
Part # 41953
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Melting Slicks
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From: San Diego California
Ok , I see at the bottom where the vapor line is 68 to 81. Why the 70 to 81 title?
Attachment 47806305
Attachment 47806305
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
My car has a return line, I don't see a return line pump listed as the replacement for a 69 anywhere.
I am about to just pull the trigger and buy the two hoses I listed above and an ACDelco 41240 and make it work from there.
What's the worst? I buy some other hose solution?
I am about to just pull the trigger and buy the two hoses I listed above and an ACDelco 41240 and make it work from there.
What's the worst? I buy some other hose solution?
Last edited by 69bones; Jun 22, 2014 at 01:35 PM. Reason: correct part number
Thread Starter
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
So I have the parts...removed the old one.. But now I am stuck getting new hoses in place. Probably spent 20 minutes over/under removing and cleaning from the old one.
As I expected the old line is too short to make it to the inlet on the new pump which is on the opposite side from the old one. I went to the local parts shop and spent $18 for a rubber line solution so it can be drivable again; rubber lines and an inline filter. Even though I brought samples and the guy "showed" me that the threaded end to get a nipple at the carb was the same it won't fit so I am still stuck.
I well, I am half way there at least. There's a speed shop not too far from home so maybe I will find a way to get there this week to get the right "final" solution.
Half way there on a two bolt job ! Haha
As I expected the old line is too short to make it to the inlet on the new pump which is on the opposite side from the old one. I went to the local parts shop and spent $18 for a rubber line solution so it can be drivable again; rubber lines and an inline filter. Even though I brought samples and the guy "showed" me that the threaded end to get a nipple at the carb was the same it won't fit so I am still stuck.
I well, I am half way there at least. There's a speed shop not too far from home so maybe I will find a way to get there this week to get the right "final" solution.
Half way there on a two bolt job ! Haha
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Fremont CA
It never hurts to install a lightweight fuel pump push rod if you plan on revving that motor past 6000RPM very often. Be sure you know what cam shaft type you have in the motor there are different push rods for cast iron and steel billet cams
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Do I need permatex or not on these parts as I put it back together?
As for the lightweight push rod.....I will have to look up what type cam I have. I have a receipt somewhere. Any advantage if I am only revving so high "once in a while"? I assume the heavy rod prevents full strokes at very high rpm. Same thing that happens with valve float?
As for the lightweight push rod.....I will have to look up what type cam I have. I have a receipt somewhere. Any advantage if I am only revving so high "once in a while"? I assume the heavy rod prevents full strokes at very high rpm. Same thing that happens with valve float?
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Don't light a match!
I get the the pump in after getting a new longer SS line made 30 minutes tops to do it...crank it up and it Looks good...no leaks under hood... Walk to the back to see if I can look in the tank and see fuel returning...
As I feared the return line isn't completely intact and it's dripping all over the place around my feet....
Will I have to remove the tank to get at these lines? Do i need to worry about what is fuel soaked?
.
I get the the pump in after getting a new longer SS line made 30 minutes tops to do it...crank it up and it Looks good...no leaks under hood... Walk to the back to see if I can look in the tank and see fuel returning...
As I feared the return line isn't completely intact and it's dripping all over the place around my feet....
Will I have to remove the tank to get at these lines? Do i need to worry about what is fuel soaked?
.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Cameron Park CA
Thread Starter
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Well I loosened and lowered the passenger side muffler so I could reach up to the top of the tank and reattach the return line. The bad news is that there is no barb sticking out of the tank for the return line to go into. WTF? There's a return line and a rusty old tank with no inlet? Someone actually replaced the tank (incorrectly?) with one without a return line so long ago that there was time for it get all rusty again?
I won't have the cash to buy a tank and all the other parts I would want to do it right for a little bit. I didn't like that return hose being pigged off in the engine bay.
What happens if I just plug off the return line on the pump so I can drive it for now?
I won't have the cash to buy a tank and all the other parts I would want to do it right for a little bit. I didn't like that return hose being pigged off in the engine bay.
What happens if I just plug off the return line on the pump so I can drive it for now?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Well I loosened and lowered the passenger side muffler so I could reach up to the top of the tank and reattach the return line. The bad news is that there is no barb sticking out of the tank for the return line to go into. WTF? There's a return line and a rusty old tank with no inlet? Someone actually replaced the tank (incorrectly?) with one without a return line so long ago that there was time for it get all rusty again?
I won't have the cash to buy a tank and all the other parts I would want to do it right for a little bit. I didn't like that return hose being pigged off in the engine bay.
What happens if I just plug off the return line on the pump so I can drive it for now?
I won't have the cash to buy a tank and all the other parts I would want to do it right for a little bit. I didn't like that return hose being pigged off in the engine bay.
What happens if I just plug off the return line on the pump so I can drive it for now?
Scott
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
The issue that has not been addressed is that 1969 and older used a vented gas cap. 1970 and newer used non vented. Different fuel hose designs as well and likely different pumps. This is likely the reason for the differences you are encountering.
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From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '14
Pics I see show it at the top on the passenger side pointing out to the side. That's exactly where the rubber line ends too. Maybe I should get mirror and look more thoroughly. My arm fit up there pretty well so I was pretty confident it isn't there. I see pics of tanks online for it as well that don't have that tit so I guess you can buy them without.