I am considering a frame off job on my 73 coupe and am wondering what other model years would be compatible for a frame swap. I've found my frame is heavily rusted in some areas. I have not really "dug" into it to see how extensive it really is but thought it might be wise to think about a swap in case it's more work than it's worth to repair.
Any and all info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Better to go 73 and earlier.

 

I bought a 73 frame for my 72. The only mods I had to make were for the bumper support brackets - had to drill a new hole on each side.

You can use a 74 frame also if you cut off the plates at the back that were added for the 74 rear bumper mounts.

75 - up frames might also be a possibility if you can have the rear section of your frame (over the rear wheel back) grafted onto the new frame.



Rick B.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

Good to know,Thank you. I just missed an opportunity on a 74 parts car! At least I know I have several options.

 

I have a 68 frame under one of my 73's. No mods except I had to drill some new holes for the front 'battering ram'.

Agree with the above,..go with 1973 or prior.

 

Thanks to all for the input!
Now the tough part of finding one!!

 

I'm right there with you. I've been 'on the hunt' for a reasonably priced frame for some time. My research turned up some 'thresholds' for frame prices:

$1,800: Local guy who would piece together several parts from 'good' frames and make one 'good' frame. He said it would be straight. Never got comfy with it.

$2,500: Buy an OK, straight, unrestored frame from someone that is correct (enough) to your year.

$4,000 to $5,000: Buy a fully restored and powder coated frame correct to your year.

$6,000: Buy a NEW frame correct to your year.

$7,000: Buy a NEW SRIII Frame, but be committed to a full C4 or C5 suspension package as well.

Based on the above, I looked and looked, and HAPPENED to catch a fellow forum member that was selling a 1976 frame. I was initially dismissive, but did my research and learned that, as pointed out by others, the main (only?) difference is the rear part of the frame near the gas tank...basically how/where the rear bumpers bolt on (my car is a 1970).

The problem for me was that the 1976 frame was $550 and solid. Not much to look at, but solid. And close enough to pick up.

My wife and I took a 17th Anniversary road trip 4.5 hours north and purchased the frame. Couldn't be happier. Now I have my next project sitting on dollies in my garage. Yay.

Keep your eyes peeled. Something will turn up. For a 1972, the job is pretty easy with a mid-1968 to 1974 frame. They're basically the same. Research reveals that the body mounts were slightly lower in 1973 to accomodate thicker body bushings. Solution: Get the later bushings.

The job is made a little more difficult if you get a 1975 to 1977 frame. That's when they put the 'hydraulic tubes' in the back. That's the part you'd need to "graft" from your current frame.

Personally, I wouldn't consider a 1978+ frame. Too many things changed to make the job ever more difficult.

Also, consider trying to get an auto or 4-speed frame that fits your car. It isn't THAT big of a deal to go between the two, but you'll need to add the z-bar bracket in the right location if you get an auto frame. If my $550 frame was auto (my car is stick), I would have gotten it anyway. It just so happened to be stick, so joy to me for another project avoided.

Hope that helps.

K