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So I'm thinking of replacing the valve seals. I've got some mild oil usage and smoke at startup, and burning oil smell when running. I thought I'd start with this. I'm looking up valve stem seals on Summit and there are some specs that I'm not sure of.
My engine is a GM crate motor (from PO) about 7 years old, not sure on the specifics, but about 290 or 330 HP. I think the heads are the not-so good 462624's (from what I've heard).
Either one should work. The first set includes the "classic" O-Ring seal GM used for decades on SB Chevy's. They're not really necessary if you're using umbrella seals, but, it can't really hurt.
Back in the 70's a popular choice was to use "Vega" seals. Very inexpensive, long lasting and very effective.
The umbrella gasket is better, sees higher temps, and I guess it's not that uncommon for guys to run them on both sides.. My 383 came that way... And, when using the umbrella, they say the top o ring isn't necessary... And that info came from an experienced corvette shop builder mechanic... I trust his expertise
Umbrella seals are the trick to buy you some time until you can fix it permanently with a valve job. If this has been going on for some time then there will be enough burned oil buildup on the valve stems that the seals won't help much. But it will help.
That's what I'm wondering... I had that cracked seal on the motor when I bought the car from the PO... 254 miles from him... 5500 miles from me on this engine... Just replaced the seal, about 500 miles ago... Was still getting a little puff on cold startup... But it 'may' be getting better? Perhaps I had sooty deposits on the valve? I'm waiting to see if it burns off/clears up, or if I need to delve deeper into the heads etc... Too bad too, cause it's all fresh/new under the hood...
That's what I'm wondering... I had that cracked seal on the motor when I bought the car from the PO... 254 miles from him... 5500 miles from me on this engine... Just replaced the seal, about 500 miles ago... Was still getting a little puff on cold startup... But it 'may' be getting better? Perhaps I had sooty deposits on the valve? I'm waiting to see if it burns off/clears up, or if I need to delve deeper into the heads etc... Too bad too, cause it's all fresh/new under the hood...
yeah, I hope I don't have too much gunk in there from it being this way for a while...
You will need a valve spring compressor, compression gauge capable of hooking up air to fill the cylinder, a small hammer, and safety glasses... Get it apart, pull one of yours off, and make sure to get the right size to put back on... A caliper could be handy to measure your stud where the seal sits, they come in numerous sizes... A magnet is handy to retrieve the keepers...
Adjusting valves or rockers depends on lifters and rocker arms when done...
I had a shop do mine on one cylinder... And I'm confident I could do it myself... But I didn't have the tools... And it pays to have someone with experience breeze through it!